Developer rec for FP4+ in 35mm for portraits

[timbo10ca]

Title says it all....... My boss has "commissioned" me to do staff portraits (ugh- not my forte at all). I did a test with my HC110 dil B and for some reason I'm getting huge grain, where I haven't before (probably just didn't notice it in my landscape shots). What would be my best bet for getting as fine of grain as possible with this film? He wants me to enlarge to 8x10 from 35mm :rolleyes:

Tim

 

[Colin Corneau]

I'd try DDX...I always found HC110 a grainy developer.

 

[Zathras]

Title says it all....... My boss has "commissioned" me to do staff portraits (ugh- not my forte at all). I did a test with my HC110 dil B and for some reason I'm getting huge grain, where I haven't before (probably just didn't notice it in my landscape shots). What would be my best bet for getting as fine of grain as possible with this film? He wants me to enlarge to 8x10 from 35mm :rolleyes:

Tim

My $.02,

PMK 1+2+100, Edwal FG7 diluted 1+15 with water, NO sodium sulfite, or D-76 straight up or 1+1.

Mike Sullivan

 

[Anscojohn]

D-23. A fantastic combo with FP-4 for great skin tones. Trust me.

 

[MattKing]

Tim:

I haven't shot FP4 in a long time, but I shoot Plus-X regularly and process it in HC110 Dil H (9 minutes @ 20C, moderate agitation) and am happy with the results.

Matt

 

[MikeSeb]

D-76 or Xtol 1+1.

The best I've ever seen Plus-X look is in PC-TEA at 1+50 in a Jobo. Really.

I love Plus-X but it's finicky in my hands. A recent thread around here talked about it. It's a wild "maverick" kinda like 100TMX--really doesn't like mishandling.

@AnscoJohn, I'll bet it does look great in D-23. At what EI do you shoot it for that developer?

 

[fschifano]

I use D-76 or XTOL myself. Like XTOL a little better, but either will do an admirable job. Too bad you're stuck using 35 mm. 'cause medium format would look so much nicer. That said, read up on portrait lighting first if you're not already familiar with the techniques. That will make more difference than any developer or format choice you can make.

 

[BradS]

D-23 or D-76 straight.

 

[2F/2F]

I haven't had grain problems with FP4 and HC-110, or with FP4 and any other developer. Nice 8x12s (same enlargement you will need to get 8x10s), even with pushing. Something must be wrong with the test roll. Why not take the film to a lab? You're getting paid, right, and I imagine they will pay for lab fees. I am sure it will be fine if lab processed.

Another option is Pan F. Read the data sheet first, though. You need to expose it very carefully to get best results, due to the shape of its curve.

 

[timbo10ca]

Thanks everybody- great suggestions.

Tim

 

[Zathras]

D-23. A fantastic combo with FP-4 for great skin tones. Trust me.

I agree, I also forgot all about this one. For a similar commercially available developer, either Microdol-X or Perceptol diluted 1+3.

Mike Sullivan

 

[George Collier]

Whatever developer you use, if it was me, I would develop for 20% - 25% less than normal, unless you are looking for a high contrast effect. It will help when printing, if you have unforeseen skin highlights, etc. (Like on those with little hair, foreheads, etc.)
You can always print up the contrast.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I've had best luck with Pyrocat and this film. I did use FP4 in 35mm a couple of years ago, and made 12"x16" prints with 1" borders from 35mm and the grain was very fine still. I printed on graded paper, don't know if that makes a difference. I could hardly believe it when I printed how nice it looked.
Now I use FP4 when I can afford it, mainly in MF and LF. But usually I have to resort to what's the least expensive. It's my favorite film.
- Thomas

 

[sgoetzin]

I use the FP4+ extensivley for studio shootings. I use either XTOL 1+1 or the Rodinal Special 1+15. RS gives excellent skin tones, but is hard to find.

Serge