Developer for Rollei Retro 100 and 400S

[myosotis]

I've taken up developing b/w film again after many years of doing mostly colour photography. Trying a few different films I've found I like the Rollei Retro films nowadays. So far I've developed it in ID11 which I bought mostly out of habit, and because I used to use Ilford films a lot. I like the result, but it would be great to find something that I can store longer and mix in smaller quantities, as I only develop one film at a time, and only about one a month. I've been considering just buying a few and trying them out, but if someone would like to share their experiences with various developers in combination with these films it would be most helpful. I shoot mostly medium format so graininess isn't really an issue (although I do have my favourite pinhole for 35 mm too).

 

[Rhodes]

If I am not mistaken, rollei retro 100 is agfa apx 100, so Rodinal is the best choise for it, plus it has all the caracteristics that you require.

 

[Ian Grant]

Rodinal and APX100 are a perfect combination, very fine grain, sharp and superb tonality.

Welcome to APUG BTW

Ian

 

[Chrismat]

I have been using Adonal (Rodinal) 1/100 stand developed for 45 minutes and it has been working well so far. Rollei Retro is a fairly contrasty film and stand developing does help to control it.

Rodinal and APX100 are a perfect combination, very
fine grain, sharp and superb tonality.

Welcome to APUG BTW

Ian

 

[Colin Corneau]

If I am not mistaken, rollei retro 100 is agfa apx 100, so Rodinal is the best choise for it, plus it has all the caracteristics that you require.

Exactly correct, and has been my experience, too.

 

[myosotis]

I'll try Rodinal then, thanks everyone for the advice. I've never tried stand developing, and I'm not sure I know what it is, so I'll read up on that, but I assume ordinary developing works fine too?

And thanks for the welcome! I've been browsing the forums and enjoyed the resource of information here.

 

[Роберт]

Yes, APX100 / Rollei Retro 100 and Rodinal 1+50 is very good. For the Rollei Retro 400S you can succesfully use HC-110 in dilution B or H (resp. 1+31 - 1+63). This Gevaert aviation film has extended Red sensitivity and has then a real iso rate around 250-320. The Rollei Retro 80S version (also from Gevaert and extended Red) is very nice in CG-512/RLS, an ultra fine grain type developer. The finest grain you can get with a cubical type film (except micro films). But then iso 40-50 only.

Greetz,

Роберт

 

[Rhodes]

Yes, normally most people uses 12 to 13m with rodinal 1:50 for apx 100, inverting a few times during the first minute and then 2 or 3 invertions each minute, etc. For low contrast, 20m at 1:100. Stand is just invert a few time and let the tank rest for a specific amount of time, no agitation/invertion. I use it for dev xp2 with rodinal, or for some "special" films (like microcopy films).

 

[Rolleijoe]

I use Rodinal (still have a small stash) 1:50 for 10min normal agitation. Any longer the shadows get blocked, and the highlights blown. This works no matter what film I'm using (process all in 1 go). Although with Rollei Ortho 25, I think I may have used Amaloco 74. Have a roll of 400s in the Rollei 3.5E, and trying the Ortho25 in the Nikon (worked perfectly before in the Rollei in the Rodinal method described above.

Good luck, I've switched to all Rollei too.

 

[MDR]

I use Rodinal/Adonal 1:100 1 hour stand with both Films and I get good results.

Good Luck

 

[myosotis]

I've now ordered the Rodinal so I look forward to trying it out. Thanks everyone!

 

[Rhodes]

Another one to the rodinal side...muahhahahahah! Have fun with the developer, for me it will be the developer for a life time!

 

[cmo]

Rodinal and APX100 are a perfect combination, very fine grain, sharp and superb tonality.

Welcome to APUG BTW

Ian

It can even get better. There is a soup named Moersch Eco Film Developer. It works extremely well with APX 100 and other low- and medium-speed non-T-grain films.

I don't have a bigger version of this one online, but it gives an impression of the sharpness - this scan was not sharpened:

It's a 35mm negative, taken with an old lens that does not render much contrast.

 

[MDR]

CMO the print looks very sharp and has good tonality and I was wondering if you knew what devoloping agent was used in the Moersch developer. I just read that it needs an activator but no Info about the developer.
Thanks
Dominik

 

[cmo]

I have no idea about the ingredients. It's two concentrates, you use them like 1+1+50 (50 is the water) or similar.

 

[MDR]

To CMO

Thank you
Dominik

 

[myosotis]

Ok, another developer to try. I had anyway considered ordering some alt process stuff from Moersch.

To MDR and Chrismat: after reading up on stand development on the forum an elsewhere, how much agitation do you do? I haven't figured out how much that affects the time.

 

[MDR]

Dear myosotis

I agitate 3 times the first time for 30 secs, the second time after 30 mins for 8 secs and the third time just before the hour is over again for 8 secs. I also a presoak the film for 3 mins. If you do a lot of alt processes you might consider using one of the staining developers like Pyrocat HD, Jay de Fehr's Hypercat , Moersch's Tanol or Tanol Speed.

Dominik

 

[georg16nik]

indeed, Moersch Eco is interesting developer.
cmo, what scanner was used for that attached photo of Yours?
If I am not mistaken, the exif says "Model: Canon EOS 5D Mark II" & "Focal Length: 50"
Thanks,
G

It can even get better. There is a soup named Moersch Eco Film Developer. It works extremely well with APX 100 and other low- and medium-speed non-T-grain films.

I don't have a bigger version of this one online, but it gives an impression of the sharpness - this scan was not sharpened:

It's a 35mm negative, taken with an old lens that does not render much contrast.

 

[cmo]

cmo, what scanner was used for that attached photo of Yours?
If I am not mistaken, the exif says "Model: Canon EOS 5D Mark II" & "Focal Length: 50"
Thanks,
G

This is strictly an analog forum, but I want to reply. I use a high-end DSLR with a bellows and an Olympus 4/80mm bellows head as a scanner, the light source is a very bright LED video light, and I am very happy with the results. I use that camera mostly as a very good negative scanner The analog print looks very similar, but I don't have it here.

But not today, I just have break from a long darkroom session, I prepare an exhibition, and this monitor is too bright for me now.

BTT:

I am currently experimenting with Moersch's efd and Efke 50 and Orwo UN54 and N74 film. So far I can say that Efke 50 and efd is a very good match, like APX 100/Rollei retro 100, and both Orwos like Xtol. As soon as I have more time I will show the results on apug in a separate thread.

 

[georg16nik]

cmo, thanks!
I've heard some folks use d cameras as scanners.
The quality of the photo You posted is very good.

G

 

[whlogan]

As an alternate, assuming one requires such, try HC 110, if Kodak doesn't belly up too soon. Dilution B is best, for my ticket to the ball. Seek the dev times off the Massive Development Site. You will be pleased with the results, I think. I always have been.
Logan

 

[myosotis]

I've tried the Rodinal and I'm happy with the results. I also tried stand development with it, and the negatives look good but I haven't had the time to scan or enlarge them yet. I think I'll stick with the Rodinal for a while and get to know it, and keep the others on the list of stuff to try. Why is that list always getting very long?

 

[MaximusM3]

Rodinal and APX100 is a match made in heaven. Do mind that with a 1:50 dilution, you will only get about 50-64 in real speed. I would also suggest some tests because everyone else's opinion will only lead to waste and frustration. I just had my APX100 tested by Fred Newman at the View Camera Store, with a calibrated light source and 21 step tablet. Developed with Rodinal 1:50 @ 70 degrees, with distilled water throughout the process, and results were enlightening to say the least. Scary by how much I was off about everything.

Film speed is at most 64 with 16 minute development for an SBR of 5.8 (or less than N+1 if talking zone) and average gradient of 0.57. Normal development time for my tests, with SBR of 7 (N for zone) is 9.5 minutes @ 64ISO. Bottom line, if you rate the film @ 100ISO, which clearly it never reaches with Rodinal, and develop for some of the published times of between 12 and 17 minutes, you will be likely WAY off. Fred will do film testing for about $45. Best money ever spent.

Below is a PDF attachment if anyone is interested.

 

[baachitraka]

Very interesting indeed. One thing I miss is agitation scheme.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Though the test conducted is for different film, but the result from different agitation is rather interesting too.