Developer for Kodak TRI-X - 400TX

[Graham Hansford]

I wonder if anyone can help me.

Being perhaps stuck in my ways (and on the grounds "if it isn't broke don't fix it" philosophy) I usually use Ilford films and Ilford LC29 developer at 1+19. This has always worked very well for me.

I was recently given a roll of Kodak TRI-X 400 (400TX) film - have exposed it and am looking for some useful development data. Kodak obvioulsy only quote times for Kodak developers. The Massive Dev Chart lists it with LC29 at 6.5 minutes but it has a note - this is for a JOBO processing drum (I take this as with continuous agitation).

Should I use this time - or does anybody have any experience with this film and Ilford developers or should I be looking for a different developer.

I hope somebody can help as I think I have some good frames to work with on this roll.

 

[Jeffrey A. Steinberg]

I use 5:30 seconds at 24 degrees celcius with a Jobo with constant agitation. My jobo does B&W at 24 degrees.

 

[modafoto]

For only one roll go with what you've got. But Tri-X and HP5 acts very lovely in Rodinal 1+50 (crispy grain!)

Morten

 

[jim appleyard]

investing in another developer for a single roll of film, when you already have a developer that you're happy with, strikes me as counterproductive. You're far more likely, I think, to get close to optimum results using a developer with which you are familiar, than by trying a new developer, with a new film, and depending on the recommendations of others for development time. I would bet that simply using your time for HP5+ in your LC29 for your roll of TX will produce good, printable negatives. In fact, Ilford's recommended development time for TX 400 in LC29 1+19, is 6 1/2 min., just like HP5+. I recommend that you simply pretend that your TX is HP5+, and procede accordingly. Good luck.

Jay

I'm with Jay here. You can dev. Tri-X in just about anything, that's one of its strengths, but it takes a few rolls to get to know a film/dev. combo to see what it can and cannot do for you. One roll isn't going to tell you much.

 

[Graham Hansford]

Thanks everybody for putting my mind at rest - I had wondered about going straight for the 6.5 minutes - thought it couldn't be a million miles away. Will give it a try and hopefully post something on the gallery.

Graham

 

[fhovie]

4 teaspoons of instant coffee and 2 teaspoons of washing soda in 8oz of water at 68F for 20 minutes - (for tri-x) I haven't tried it but I thought it was interesting.

 

[gma]

I have always liked Tri-X developed in Microdol X 1:3. Fine grain and good sharpness. Reduce speed to 250-320 if you use the diluted developer.

 

[modafoto]

4 teaspoons of instant coffee and 2 teaspoons of washing soda in 8oz of water at 68F for 20 minutes - (for tri-x) I haven't tried it but I thought it was interesting.

I have tried it...It went wrong! Said in another way...It needs practice and a lot of trial and error. But great that instant coffee can be used for something good

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

I like to shoot 120 Tri-X at an EI of 1000 and develop in Acufine.. Otherwise it's either PMK or Rodinal.. I love Tri-X!

 

[fhovie]

I have tried it...It went wrong! Said in another way...It needs practice and a lot of trial and error. But great that instant coffee can be used for something good

I agree ... finally a good use for instand coffee - I use a percolator here - Real coffee is a little chewy!

 

[Donald Qualls]

4 teaspoons of instant coffee and 2 teaspoons of washing soda in 8oz of water at 68F for 20 minutes - (for tri-x) I haven't tried it but I thought it was interesting.

Better make it thirty minutes, not twenty, or you'll get negatives that lack "snap". I have tried it -- it's got some Rodinal qualities, by way of making no apology for grain (which, with Tri-X, is left hard and gritty), but also produces excellent sharpness and fine tones. It's hard to imagine a cheaper developer; $5 worth of coffee and $2 worth of soda will developer at least 100 rolls of film.

BTW, different brands of instant coffee may require adjustment of the amount used; the above works well with Folger's Coffee Crystals, but other brands have required up to twice as much coffee.

VERY IMPORTANT: mix in the soda first, so you can see when the solution is completely clear, then add the coffee and mix until the solution is an even dark brown with all the "creamy" quality gone; this will reduce or eliminate micro-bubbles of air introduced with the powered ingredients. Even then, I see some unevenness in the general stain and tiny spots from time to time that I presume are hints I'm not mixing the coffee well enough. Next time I use this, I might try filtering it through (what else?) a coffee filter before putting it in the tank.

 

[modafoto]

I love Tri-X!

I second that! I have a roll of Tri-X in my Olympus OM-1 right now @ 200. I am still unsure whether I should develop it in Rodinal or Caffenol.

 

[AndrewH]

Another Microdol vote here

To my eye, nothing compares with Microdol 1:3. Soft working developer, sharp, easy to print flat negatives. Although I am not certain you NEED to shoot at 250 or 320 with 1:3, which achieves more speed than the undiluted Microdol.

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

One of my favorite combinations was plus-x and microdol.. Gorgeous, especially for still lifes and portraits.

 

[André E.C.]

I like it with D-76!

Cheers

André

 

[modafoto]

I second that! I have a roll of Tri-X in my Olympus OM-1 right now @ 200. I am still unsure whether I should develop it in Rodinal or Caffenol.

I have changed my mind and rated it @1600 ISO instead. So Caffenol is out of the question. I go with Rodinal for vivid and crispy grain!

Morten

 

[tomicjusz]

For only one roll go with what you've got. But Tri-X and HP5 acts very lovely in Rodinal 1+50 (crispy grain!)

Morten

As it is said above:Rodinal 1+50 is great for TRI-X. I love it