Developed my first roll... Poor Paterson Reel loading technique ...

[Patrick Robert James]

Also he tells the OP to use fiber filed paper towel to dry his negatives assuring there will be no dust issues... Haha

Please never use paper towel or toilet paper to dry your negs....



~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

You ever done it Stone? Or are you just talking out your a$$. Kimwipes work great. Bounty works really well. Don't use the stuff that you use to wipe your tushy. You may talk from there, but it doesn't leave clean negs.

Lots of experience, no b.s.

 

[StoneNYC]

You ever done it Stone? Or are you just talking out your a$$. Kimwipes work great. Bounty works really well. Don't use the stuff that you use to wipe your tushy. You may talk from there, but it doesn't leave clean negs.

Lots of experience, no b.s.

Fair enough, I haven't done it, but a paper towel with loose fibers wouldn't be my first choice to wipe film as the fibers would deposit themselves on the emulsion.

I just don't know of a roll I'll shoot that I won't care enough about to test on, but someday if I do I will try.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Patrick did not advise to wipe the emulsion side, only the base side. In fact, he specifically advised against wiping the emulsion side.

Fair enough, I haven't done it, but a paper towel with loose fibers wouldn't be my first choice to wipe film as the fibers would deposit themselves on the emulsion.

I just don't know of a roll I'll shoot that I won't care enough about to test on, but someday if I do I will try.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[StoneNYC]

Patrick did not advise to wipe the emulsion side, only the base side. In fact, he specifically advised against wiping the emulsion side.

Ahh I missed that.

I have much to learn, don't listen to me...


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dinesh]

Ahh I missed that.

I have much to learn, don't listen to me...


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't concern yourself with trivial details like accuracy, just keep posting away as fast as you can!

 

[StoneNYC]

Don't concern yourself with trivial details like accuracy, just keep posting away as fast as you can!

The main part I don't understand is how you can not use photoflow and only wipe the non-emulsion side and not have spots. It doesn't mean it's not possible but I don't understand it.

Also keep picking on me I'm sure it's helpful to the OP


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Stone,

Foma and Efke films have very soft emulsions. You wouldn't want to touch them when wet. Fuji Acros is not as bad, but susceptible to damage in my experience. Kodak and Ilford are very tough emulsions, and I haven't had a single scratch in five years when using a soft rubber edge to wipe the excess moisture off either base side or emulsion side.

It's about technique and finding something that works. My negs are virtually dust free and I print 11x14 from 35mm with usually no more than two or three spots per print. Works for me. I learned my technique from a portraitist that has been in business for longer than I've been alive, and he himself had a mentor and teacher with similar long background and experience. It helps to look beyond the internet, strike up friendships with people you admire and respect, and learn from them. That way you know you get good information.

Developing film is not rocket science, but lots of things along the way can go wrong. The devil is in the details.

- Thomas

The main part I don't understand is how you can not use photoflow and only wipe the non-emulsion side and not have spots. It doesn't mean it's not possible but I don't understand it.

Also keep picking on me I'm sure it's helpful to the OP


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cliveh]

When you loaded the camera you probably wasted about 6" of film not including the leader. If you therefore leave some film sticking out the cassette when you rewind the camera, or use a leader extractor if it has wound all the way back in (auto rewind). You can then cut the leader off and start loading the film past the ball bearings in the spiral (in the light) before you put it in the changing bag (make sure the core is already iside the spiral) before putting it in the bag with the tank and inner lid. In the bag, pull out all the rest of the film from the cassette, load the spiral and rip the end of the film from your cassette using your finger nails. Finish loading and secure in tank with the inner lid on.

 

[MattKing]

FWIW, Kodak Photoflo 200 has worked well for me for 40+ years.

I have the benefit of clean, relatively soft tap water and I measure it carefully and dilute it at about 1:250 for use.

In recent times I've added a portion of isopropyl alcohol to the diluting water, which speeds drying.

I dry the film by hanging it over a bathtub, with the shower curtain pulled. On the few days a year when the humidity here is unusually low I steam up the shower area first before hanging the film.

I never squeegee the film near the image area. I will use my Photo-flo wetted fingers to squeegee the two ends to remove excess liquid.

 

[GarageBoy]

Thanks. I forgot to invert after using the photoflo, merely dunked the film in and pulled it out. Still trying to figure out what the scratches are in the frame I posted.

 

[StoneNYC]

Stone,

Foma and Efke films have very soft emulsions. You wouldn't want to touch them when wet. Fuji Acros is not as bad, but susceptible to damage in my experience. Kodak and Ilford are very tough emulsions, and I haven't had a single scratch in five years when using a soft rubber edge to wipe the excess moisture off either base side or emulsion side.

It's about technique and finding something that works. My negs are virtually dust free and I print 11x14 from 35mm with usually no more than two or three spots per print. Works for me. I learned my technique from a portraitist that has been in business for longer than I've been alive, and he himself had a mentor and teacher with similar long background and experience. It helps to look beyond the internet, strike up friendships with people you admire and respect, and learn from them. That way you know you get good information.

Developing film is not rocket science, but lots of things along the way can go wrong. The devil is in the details.

- Thomas

I'm trying to find real people in my area, so far just one guy, we met up once but I'm looking forward to the beach meet up thing in New England ... Hopefully I'll be able to make it.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk