dev times Delta 400 + Hypercat

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olk

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Hi,
could I get the dev time for Delta 400 + Hypercat.
ty, Oliver
 

removedacct3

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My version of Hypercat is a slightly altered version, I am using Hypercat Part A with Pyrocat=HD's part B. My development time for Delta 400 exposed at 200 using a 1 + 1 + 120 dilution is 11 minutes at 22 deg C.
 
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olk

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Do you mean 1+1+200 or 1:1:200 dilution (Jay DeFehr usually uses the ':' notation)?
 

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Do you mean 1+1+200 or 1:1:200 dilution (Jay DeFehr usually uses the ':' notation)?

For a single 35mm reel I add 2.5ml A and 2.5 ml B to 300 ml water, does that make any sense?
 

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Yes, makes sense...
Do you use Hypercat in this dilution with Borax + Sodium Hydroxide instead Sodium Carbonate

No, I gave up on Sodium Hydroxide all together. Safety was an argument as well as lack of density. As an experiment I tried to use Hypercat A with Pyrocat-HD B and I was pleasantly surprised by the results. More stain, shorter development times and I was able to print on VC paper using grade 2 instead of grade 3 or even 3.5.

I am using cheap ebay plastic cooking measurement cups to 'weigh out' Hypercat. Those cups come in various sizes and 2.5 and 5.0 ml are included. So I decided to use 2.5 + 2.5 + 300 for a single roll of 35mm and to use 5.+ 5 + 600 for two 35mm rolls or a single roll of 120.

Using the film speed test as described in Beyond Monochome I came to the conclusion that the actual film speed or exposure index of Delta 400 is about 200 - 250 ASA and that development time of 11:00 minutes would be a good starting point.

I'll include my test sheet so you can have a look for yourself.
 

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  • FilmTest Ilford Delta 400 in Hypercat (2020 - 09) - Input Data.pdf
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olk

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Thank you for the test sheet!
What do you think about the other developers from jay DeFehr (510-pyro, GSD-10 and especially Halcyon)?
 

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What do you think about the other developers from jay DeFehr (510-pyro, GSD-10 and especially Halcyon)?

I do not like the handling of 510-pyro. It is too viscous and therefor it does not wash off using running water. You need to wipe it off and pyrogallol's ability to enter your body by penetrating your skin makes that you need to wear gloves when doing so. Hypercat, or better put, glycol is much, much easier to deal with. It can be cleaned by using running water only. No wiping, no gloves, just running water and a paper towel. But to be fair, I once did a summer project using 510-pyro and the nega looked good and printed well.

Regarding GSD-10, I've tried it and got good, very good results with it, but I found its shelf life to be very limited. It went bad after only a couple months. Tried to look for ways to extend its shelf life, but was unsuccesful
Have a look at: https://www.flickr.com/groups/1447120@N21/discuss/72157666384558641/

Halycon? Is that his latest concocion? Nope, a quick google action tells me it is almost 10 years old. Never heard of it.
 
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