Detoxifying Fixer Trays, Bottles

Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by tim_bessell, Feb 23, 2009.

  1. tim_bessell

    tim_bessell Member

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    Is there a good way to detoxify equipment that has had fixer in it? I thought I read somewhere how, but can't find it now. I did find this document on the Kodak web site that describe removal of silver sulfide.

    http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/cis167/cis167.pdf

    I have 4 empty one liter bottles of Kodak Rapid Fix I would like to recycle for a batch of alkaline fixer.

    Or should I just forget it.:confused:
     
  2. Bill Mobbs

    Bill Mobbs Member

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    What I have done in the past... Wash them with hot water and fill with the new fixer.


    Bill
     
  3. OP
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    tim_bessell

    tim_bessell Member

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    Actually I did that for some time, but still have a faint smell of that nasty Kodak Fixer. The bottles are nice, wish I knew where to but some brand new.

    I'm sure it is not critical, but would still like to know where I read how to detoxify fixer tainted equipment.
     
  4. Chazzy

    Chazzy Member

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    I must be missing something. You are switching from one kind of fixer to another kind of fixer, so contamination (much less detoxification) is not an issue. Rinse the bottles out a few times, and forget about it.
     
  5. Bob-D659

    Bob-D659 Member

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    Or just replace them with recycled 1 liter soft drink bottles. Air tight, squeezable, reusable and free. :smile:
     
  6. fschifano

    fschifano Member

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    That's what I use for most things. Sometimes they still smell of root beer. So what? Doesn't cause any problem.
     
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    tim_bessell

    tim_bessell Member

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    Ummm.... root beer flavored fixer. I don't drink soft drinks and buying it just for the bottle is, well about the cost of a new bottle.

    Ok, just wash and forget.

    Anyone know the answer to my original question. How to detoxify fixer trays, bottles, etc? thanX.
     
  8. AgX

    AgX Member

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    The matrix of PE is quite open to Hydrocarbons; to decontaminate a bottle from these will be difficult.

    Can't say much though on inorganic contamination...


    But I'm speaking on de-contamination.

    You, Tim, are speaking on de-toxification. What are you going to do with those trays, bottles? Serving a meal on/in?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2009
  9. PHOTOTONE

    PHOTOTONE Member

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    Kodak used to make a tray and tank cleaner. It worked great, it would get the blackest trays pure white with little effort. (If they were white to begin with). Maybe PE will chime in on the formula or a suggestion.

    I have had pretty good results using some soap and a scotchbrite pad to scrub trays out.

    I don't think you have to worry about the old bottles doing any significant contamination of your new fixer, if they are rinsed out several times.

    In addition to this, I used to mix up and store E-6 chemistry in surplus laundry bleach bottles that I scavenged from laundromats. I never had a problem with them either.
     
  10. DWThomas

    DWThomas Subscriber

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    I think there was a tray cleaner recipe way back in the '50s that was essentially an acid dichromate bleach solution. It might be pretty effective, but might also be trading one toxicity for another.

    DaveT
     
  11. OP
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    tim_bessell

    tim_bessell Member

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    Maybe I should have said just clean enough to be reused for storing photo chems.

    My trays LOOK clean, since I usually rinse them well after a darkroom session and I haven't had any strange results that could be attributed to contamination so I guess I'm safe there. My trays are marked D, S, & F, and are always used for the same purpose.

    Guess I'm being a little to anal, huh?
     
  12. trexx

    trexx Member

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    May be I'm anal. Once a container has one class of chemical it always has that class of chemical. Trays are developer, stop ( water or acid ), fix, fix, wash. Storage; dev., fix, toner, HCA. Mixing; Dev, stop, fix, toner and other ( other is glass beakers 1 to 3 liter )

    Putting alkaline fix in a bottle that once held an acid fix would be no big deal.
     
  13. tiberiustibz

    tiberiustibz Member

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    Just don't confuse the root beer with the E6 bleach.
     
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    tim_bessell

    tim_bessell Member

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    Someone posted here on APUG (i think) awhile back, how they put fixer in an orange juice container and set it outside. Their wife put the container in the fridge, thinking it was OJ. The poster of the message also thought it was OJ, since it was in the fridge, and drank it.:surprised: Not sure if it was a joke, but that was the story.

    I always remove any label or at least cover the original with black marker and then a new label with contents/date goes over it.
     
  15. mooseontheloose

    mooseontheloose Subscriber

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    May be I'm anal. Once a container has one class of chemical it always has that class of chemical. Trays are developer, stop ( water or acid ), fix, fix, wash. Storage; dev., fix, toner, HCA. Mixing; Dev, stop, fix, toner and other ( other is glass beakers 1 to 3 liter )

    Don't do any developing in any kind of school or community darkroom then. Trays, tanks, graduates -- all are used interchangeably with various chemicals with nothing but a rinse in between them. Not that we were using them for anything important...but I never saw any ill effects to our negs or prints as a result.
     
  16. trexx

    trexx Member

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    In the community darkroom I use every tray, bottle, and graduate is used for a single chemical.
     
  17. bsdunek

    bsdunek Subscriber

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  18. rknewcomb

    rknewcomb Subscriber

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    If you feel the need to do more then just wash them out, clean them with a hypo clearing bath and then wash them again.
     
  19. CBG

    CBG Member

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  20. OP
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    tim_bessell

    tim_bessell Member

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    I have used a dichromate bleach just before I planned to discard it on my trays, followed by a hca (sodium sulfite) rinse. That cleans stains pretty nice.

    I also have used Potassium Ferricyanide in the same way, just before dumping it.

    The info at Kodak that I linked to in my OP uses Liquid sodium hypochlorite laundry bleach (e.g., CLOROX or SUNNYSOL)

    Funny thing is the worst stains seem to come from using XTOL. I have stopped using XTOL since going to a water stop bath because the stains end up on my negatives. It seems to need an acid stop to prevent this.

    Thank you very much for the tips and links.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 24, 2009
  21. Lowell Huff

    Lowell Huff Inactive

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    We still make the bichromate and sulfuric acid tray cleaner. We also make a non chromate cleaner