Delta Plastic Sinks

[nsurit]

I need a sink that will hold a 16 X 20 Zone Vl print washer. Will these sinks stand the weight? Any other advice on sinks? Plastic vs Stainless. Thanks, Bill Barber

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I have one of the Delta 6' sinks and I can put both a 16x20 print washer and a Nova 16x20 vertical slot processor in the sink simultaneously, fully loaded with water/chems, with no problems. I have it on their standard steel stand which fits the sink properly and supports it. If you make your own stand, you may or may not have issues with fitting it in.

 

[jeroldharter]

I have an 8 foot ABS sink with the steel stand and I think it would be a bit flimsy for a fully loaded washer. Also, might be fickle to levelling.

I would be concerned that the top of the washer would be too high, considering that you have to drop a large print into slots that you probably could not see clearly. I built a wooden cart on heavy casters (although I never move it). The cart is only about 2 feet high but works just right with the washer on top. If I did it again, I would use a heavy duty plastic dunnage shelf from Lowe's that will hold over 200 pounds and is about the right height.

I drain my washer with a plastic tube dropping into a floor drain.

 

[Lopaka]

I agree that the sink height may put the washer a bit high for comfort. I built a 2 foot high stand for mine. I also use the ABS sinks, a 4 foot where my Jobo permanently resides and a bigger one for other work. I built my own stands and used heavy duty levelling feet which attach to the bottom of the 2x4 legs on all three stands. This has worked very well for levelling.

Bob

 

[David Brown]

I have the 8 ft Delta sink. I built my own stand of wood. When I first got my 11x14 washer, I placed it in the sink, but I did add a 2x4 brace right under the washer "just because". I have since built a shorter table and placed the washer outside the sink. Not so much to lower the washer (althought that is a side benefit) but to free up the space in the sink.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I forgot about the brace I put under the sink. I made a brace out of 2x4s, not because the sink wasn't strong enough, but all that water weight made it slope toward the center drain, and I was afraid of the stress I was putting on the plumbing. Now the sink stays perfectly level even with the fully loaded 16x20 washer and 16x20 print processor. I am 5' 9" (168cm+/-) tall, and I have no problems handling 16x20 prints back and forth between the washer and the processor, even under my 7' ceiling.

 

[DKT]

I have 2, 6 foot delta sinks in my home darkroom, that I built wooden stands for. On each one, I put a 2x4 on edge, down the middle as a support. I have loaded them up with everything from archival washers, to deeptank lines, and they've done well for about ten years now.

at work, one of our sinks is small 4 foot delta, with the metal stand as well. we use it for mixing chemistry only, so it has never had more than about a couple of gallons of water in it. The drain has had to be repaired many times, because the sink flexes and causes all sorts of problems. we probably should make a base for it, but we're probably going to fold our two darkrooms together at some point, so it doesn't really matter I guess. I think they're good sinks for the value, but I would make a beefy base for them.

 

[Allen Friday]

I keep an 11x14 print washer in my delta sink all the time. For my 20x24 print washer, however, I built a small table that sits next to the sink. The main reason is the height. The top of the washer is basically level with the sink. If it were in the sink, the top would be head high. I would need a step ladder to get the print in the washer if it were in the sink.

 

[jstraw]

I've been thinking (since I built the darkroom) about getting my Zone VI 11x14 washer out of the sink. The issue centers around draining it. The Zone VI has a drain plug, such that draining it in a sink is pretty much assumed. I'd like to find a way to fit a hose to the unthreaded drain hole. I'm not aware of a pressure fitting that could replace the rubber plug that can accomodate a hose. Does anyone know of such a thing?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

You can get a threaded socket that you epoxy in place that will fit the hole, or overcut the hole to take a larger thread, and then epoxy the threads in place. That's basically what they did for my washer (a GravityWorks).

 

[jstraw]

If I'm using epoxy, do I need to worry about what sort of plastic I'm epoxying to what sort of plastic?

 

[Sparky]

Actually - I need to pipe in on this Mike. I've done some experimentation with this. I have a 6' Delta. What I did was get some 1/2" baltic birch 10-ply and epoxy 2" deep strips into the ribs in the bottom of the sink - when you get yours - you'll see what I mean. Despite doing a fair bit of sanding to get the epoxy to grab properly, the ribs started separating fairly quickly. However - it's in place now. It works really well - but only because I put two 2x4s ACROSS, directly supporting the ply ribs. I know it seems really elaborate - but I wanted it to be STRONG. I don't regret the epoxied plywood at this point, since I have the 'beams' - the 'separation' is not really a problem because of this. ANd the epoxy is now formed to the exact contour of the ribs - so the support is rather excellent.

Were I to do it again however - I might consider PVC strips glued in with plastic glue/solvent in the same places.. though it probably wouldn't be QUITE as strong as what I have now. If you don't mind the kind of tenuous connection between the ply and the sink itself - it's a pretty good way to go.

 

[jstraw]

I was referring to Scott's suggestion of epoxying a threaded fitting into the drain hole on my washer.

 

[Sparky]

Mike - I'm aware - but I was piping in on the larger topic. Actually - I wasn't really paying attention to the mention of epoxy, so much as it DID remind me of my bonding issues... but was inspired more by FlyingCameras travails. You really ought to think about reinforcing the sink though.

 

[jstraw]

I'd think about it if I wasn't thinking about taking the washer out of the sink altogether.

Actually, my sink bears up just fine under the weight of the loaded 11x14 but I'd be concerned about a 16x20 too.

 

[jstraw]

If I can get the back lined up and threaded in, this might be preferable to epoxy:

Dead Link Removed

 

[konakoa]

Sounds like you might be able to use some kind of tank bulkhead fitting. Have you looked here? www.usplastic.com Search for tank or bulkhead fittings. You may have to drill a bigger opening in your washer to make these fit though .....

I've been thinking (since I built the darkroom) about getting my Zone VI 11x14 washer out of the sink. The issue centers around draining it. The Zone VI has a drain plug, such that draining it in a sink is pretty much assumed. I'd like to find a way to fit a hose to the unthreaded drain hole. I'm not aware of a pressure fitting that could replace the rubber plug that can accomodate a hose. Does anyone know of such a thing?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I once built an 11x14 vertical slot processor. The folks at Read Plastics got me a metal jar of a liquid epoxy made for adhering acrylic to acrylic. It was clear, very thin, and a single solution. I applied it using a syringe with a medium-gauge needle (courtesy of my doctor). The stuff forms a watertight bond when dried, and is extremely strong. It also works in seconds and is hard and dry within minutes. I forget the name of the stuff, but a plastics specialty place would know what I'm talking about. You need to work with it in a very well ventilated area.

 

[Sparky]

yeah - i forgot the name of that stuff, too.... acrylamide! no no... that's what forms on french fries..! Damn. Okay - just googled it.. yes. Methylene Chloride. That's the active ingredient in most plastic cements - and yes, you ought to be able to purchase it in most plastics stores.

 

[jstraw]

Thanks for the suggestions and info guys.

 

[Sparky]

or alternatively - methy acrylate. Maybe it's the same thing.