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Delta 3200; Interesting

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htmlguru4242

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Well, I developed my first roll of Delta 3200 (I thought i'd shot it before, but now that i look it was Fuji Neopan pused to 3200, lol)

I have three rolls, though I only shot one so far. Anyway, most of the pictures were taken at Christmas, indoors without a flash. I haven't printed them yet, but the negatives don't look too grainy, so that's a good sign. However, on most of the shots, shadow detail is absolutely nonexistant. In one shot that I took outside, I at first thought that my shutter had fired improperly; the top half (contains sky + a tree) is well exposed; the bottom half (ground, in sharow), is CLEAR. I realized, though, that it had exposed, but just with NO shadow detail.

I'm assuming that this is typical of this film? I mean, all but one of the shots are definetely printable, but they're not great.

I developed in D-76 for 10:30 @ about 68ºF. Any suggestions on improving this, or is that what I should expect from this film?
 
I typically shoot 3200 @1600 but thats not to say that I have not had good experience when shooting it at iso 3200....
 
In my limited experience with this film, I find the true speed to be considerably less than 3200, closer to 1200-1600, so I wouldn't be surprised at the lack of shadow detail, if you shot it at "box" speed.

- Robert
 
I concur with others that the true speed of Delta 3200 in most developers will be around 1000. However, using D76 might not be your best bet. It isn't the best speed enhancing developer around. You might want to try Microphen or DDX.

allan
 
I have had pretty good luck with this film. I develope in Ilford ID11 at 72F for 9.5 mins. The paper is Ilford Mutligrade 4, Burke and Jennings developer, from Steve Anchells "Darkroom Cookbook" IE 1600. 120 size

The samples given are from a KKK rally at our capitol. A bright sunny day shot at F16 500th-1000th of a second. This is the only film I use when doing street photography.
 

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Dear htmlguru4242,

I find that both TMZ and Delta 3200 work well at 3200 in Xtol full strength. The grain, while not small, is quite smooth. I hope I have attached an example properly.

Neal Wydra
 

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Sorry I goofed the picture with the gal kneeling was on a rainy day. Shot at 60th F8. Still had pretty good shadow detail.
 
The Ilford literature I have seen states that the true ISO of the film is 1000, but that it can be pushed to 6400. Keep in mind that pushing only affects midtones and highlights, so shadows would be lost. It might be safer to shoot a roll at 1250 or so and see what you get (I'd drop the development a bit).

just my 2c

André
 
I just developed a roll of 120 delta 3200 last night - shot at Ei 1600 developed in DDX 1:15 for 12 minutes. The negatives look great. Now I just need to find time to print.
 
In my experience Delta 3200 works best around 1600-2000 asa.
From what I have read it's true speed is about 1200asa.
I've always gotten better shadow detail with delta3200 than Neopan 1600,
which supposedly really is a 640-800 asa film.


I highly recommend using Iford DD-X or Kodak Xtol for this film.
D76 is great, but not really intended for such high speed films.


Harry LIme.
 
There have been several threads on Delta 3200 producing thin negs. One of the most stated recommendations has been to process for the next stop up (i.e. shoot at 3200, process at Ilford's recommendation for 6400), odd 'cos the datasheets for their other films seem bob on.

DD-X seems to be a pretty good soup for this emulsion, or Rodinal if you want more grain than Kelloggs.

Best of luck,

Frank
 
FrankB said:
DD-X seems to be a pretty good soup for this emulsion, or Rodinal if you want more grain than Kelloggs.

Best of luck,

Frank

:D
 
I agree with Mr Lime here, that Xtol works really well with this film. I've shot it from 800 to 3200, and never had any problems with shadow detail. Today I went into the darkroom for the first time in a while, and purpously printed a Delta3200 neg just to check... 12x16" from 35mm @ EI3200 looks pretty good. A lot of grain, but nice tonality with a rather good range from dark to bright.
Xtol seems to hold back the grain of this film really nice. I tried it in Rodinal 1+25 once, and if you thought you'd seen elephant grain before... you're in for a new experience. You can see the grain in a contact print! Nothing wrong with Kellogg's by the way.

For what it's worth...

- Thom
 
EI is really 1000 in Microphen.

If the light is contrasty as dark scenes usually are, you need to meter the dark areas and expose sufficiently. If the highlights are too dense or go off scale, cut development time.
 
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