Delayed hypo clearing bath

[Edimilson]

Hello!

I processed my first films some days ago just to give it a try. I did so without having had access to any hypo clearing agent. Since some of the negatives turned out to be quite usable, my question is: would it be OK to perform the hypo clearing bath days after having developed the films?
Thanks in advance!

Ed

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, Ed.

Yes.

Konical

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

Ed, you don't even need a hypo clearing agent with film. Make sure you use fresh fixer, wash properly, and you'll be just fine.

 

[Edimilson]

Huumm... Would it be right to suppose that the need of a hypo clearing agent bath is a controversial question then?

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Huumm... Would it be right to suppose that the need of a hypo clearing agent bath is a controversial question then?

I don't consider it a controversial question. As others have stated, you don't need it with film or with RC paper.

With fiber prints, it can speed up the washing process.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

What hmv said. A clearing agent is only necessary when you're dealing with a sponge, like fiber based paper. With film (and rc paper) there is nowhere for the silver complexes to go, except into the solution. So long as your fixer is strong.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

Sorry, what Tom said too.

 

[Edimilson]

Ok. Thanks everyone! Now I understand.

 

[Oren Grad]

Kodak does recommend use of hypo clearing agent to reduce wash times for film as well as paper. However, all of their recommended fixers are hardening fixers. If you use a fixer without hardener, hypo clearing agent should not be necessary with film or RC paper.

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

One day I should make a decision tree with all the possible cases to help determine when or not to use HCA. It depends on what substrate you're using, the type of fixer, whether you are toning or not, etc.

 

[nworth]

Was the film well washed (at least a half hour with at least 8 changes of water)? If so, don't worry about it. If not, worry.

Others may have better knowledge about this than I, but I suspect washing would become more difficult after the film has dried. The gunk you are trying to get out gets mixed up with the gelatin as well as just settling on the surface. With drying, it would get embedded in hardened gelatin. To rewash poorly washed film, I would first soak it for 15 minutes or so, then treat it with HCA for somewhat longer than directed, and then wash about 50 percent longer than recommended.

 

[Ryuji]

I don't consider it a controversial question. As others have stated, you don't need it with film or with RC paper.

I wrote this at length a while ago, but proper use of washing aid gives you greater processing capacity of fixer. Without washing aid, the fixer should be replaced fairly frequently if you want to meet archival standard. Two-stage fixation also helps in increasing the archival processing capacity of the fixer.

This is true of all film, RC and FB prints. However, in case of prints, if you want the print to last in ordinary storage condition, many experts consider sulfiding or at least selenium toning essential.

 

[Edimilson]

Hello again! Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll see to it that my films get properly fixed and washed. To wash them I use a Calumet thing that seems to work fine. I put the processed films in it after 3 series of agitations with renewed water, as I saw described in an Ilford publication. And as I only use RC paper, I don't think I must worry.