Dektol powder

[joeyk49]

I only have experience with concentrated liquid developers, which require dilution before use.

Do powdered devlopers, such as Dektol, need to be further diluted once they are mixed into their solutions? Since it doesn't say so on the can, my guess is no.

 

[Peter Schrager]

dilution

Joey-wrong guess. Make up the stock solution as per directions. Then dilute according to your use. I use dektol 1:3 for graded and 1:4 for VC papers. For warmtone you dilute upwards for increased warmtone. Never assume anything with Photography.
Regards Peter

 

[joeyk49]

Never assume

Which is why I asked here FIRST.

It just seemed strange that the negative developers all have dilution and time charts and this can of dektol didn't.

I tried Kodak's website, but it was pretty much useless; nothing like Ilford's.

Thanks.

 

[Peter Schrager]

Dektol

Joey-I'd take it one step further and treat yourself to some Zone-VI developer. Haven't used Kodak Dektol in years/don't care to. Check with Calumet forpricing. Oh-and try to stick with ONE dev so you get a feel for it.
Regards Peter

 

[joeyk49]

sticking with one

Well, I came into a can of Dektol, which has enought powder for 5 gallons of solution. So, Iguess I'll be getting familiar with this for a while.

What do you like about the Zone VI?

 

[papagene]

I have been getting cleaner whites and better tones with Zone VI than with dektol.
Your results may very. But go ahead and use up the dektol, it is not a bad developer.
I used to mix it 1:3 and develop for 2.5 to 3 mibutes.
Good luck and have fun.

gene

 

[Flotsam]

I have been using it 1:2 for 1.5 to 2 minutes for years. It must be pretty good. It has certainly stood the test of time.

 

[Peter Schrager]

dektol

I think Gene answered the question but if YOU really wanted to know for youself once and for all do a side by side comparison. I think Fred Picker used to have a rubber stamp that said: TRY IT! Honestly that's what photography is about. There are literally hundreds of combinations out there. Find something you like and stick with it for awhile. Alot of people use the ZoneVI; why? I guess it works well. Usually if I want something special I"ll mix it up from scratch but I"ll use the VI for all my proofing. For a while now I started to use Glycin dev.and Forte/had myself convinced that it was better. Alas, the glycin is unpredictable and expensive. Now it's back the VI. I know what it does and how my papers work with it. The Forte looks just fine with it. I'm no expert but it is my feeling that the QUALITY is inherent in the PAPER and you are not going to create something that is over and beyond the potential of the materials you use.
Regards Peter

 

[Bob F.]

Which is why I asked here FIRST.

It just seemed strange that the negative developers all have dilution and time charts and this can of dektol didn't.

I tried Kodak's website, but it was pretty much useless; nothing like Ilford's.

Thanks.

Never seen much detail coming with other paper developers either - not really needed. Four clicks from www.kodak.com gets you to:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...Developer.jhtml?id=0.1.16.14.30.16.5.14&lc=en

More detail in the PDF link at the left edge of that screen showing dilution, processing times, capacity etc.


Cheers, Bob.

 

[Bob Carnie]

I Use dectol 1-1.5 after I have made the stock solution
I am not sure how you plan to use it , but my advice would be to mix the whole can first then dilute each time you want to print.
Not sure about mixing portions of the powder at time of printing is a good idea.

 

[Alex Hawley]

Not sure about mixing portions of the powder at time of printing is a good idea.

I would agree with Bob. Unless you can find out the weight of powder required for 1 gallon, and weigh it out, go ahead and mix up the entire 5 gallons. Dektol stock solution will keep much longer than Kodak's shelf life alludes to.

The classic Dektol dilutions are 1:2 for general work, and 1:3. Others have come up with their own dilutions to meet their needs. Never hurts to try anything, but I would recommend to start with 1:2.

 

[joeyk49]

Thanks guys.

I spent seven hours in the darkroom playing with different negatives and the dektol; got mediocre to poor results, but I'm sure it wasn't the chemistry.

Three quarters of the way through the print session, I found out that my safelight was too close to the paper and was fogging it before I could get it exposed. Through off my test strips and everything. I guess this means I'll have to go back and try all over again, woohoo!

I think the dektol is doing its job. Now I just have to give it something worth developing...

 

[glbeas]

I'd throw that safelight out and get a red one. IMHO a good red safelight running at normal levels will never fog your average VC paper and will definately never fog graded paper. Pan paper is another ballgame so we won't go there.