• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Dektol / Ansco 130

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
203,218
Messages
2,851,573
Members
101,729
Latest member
Luis Angel Baca
Recent bookmarks
0

PVia

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
1,057
Location
Pasadena, CA
Format
Multi Format
I was looking at formulas a few days ago as I mixed a new batch of Ansco 130, and happened to see a formula for a Dektol near-clone, D-72.

It's extremely close to Ansco 130 except for the glycin and added potassium bromide...so I was wondering if I added the appropriate amount of glycin and bromide to Dektol, if I could get a pretty close approximation of 130...?

Might come in handy if you were caught without one of the other ingredients and needed to mix some up...
 
You could certainly try. Dektol is a very cold tone developer, while 130 is warmer - more toward neutral. It is notable that 130 contains less metol and much more bromide than D-72 in the stock solution. But it is also generally used at lower dilutions. Adding glycin and bromide to D-72 would make a developer close to 130, but not the same. The additional metol in D-72 would probably cool down the tone at bit. The Kodak version of 130, D-74, is listed as a warm tone developer and has even less metol than 130. There are a lot of variations you can play with. There is no magic soup, but small changes to a developer can produce very significant but subtle changes in the print with a given paper. The developer constitution, dilution, and paper all interact.
 
It is possible to... adapt. I have added hydroquinone and carbonate to a stock of 5 gallons worth of premixed D19 high contrast film developer and ended up with a 2x normal stock strength d-72 with heaps of bromide in it.
 
I find that to get the glycin in 130 to sing, you need to keep the developer warmer than usual. I try to run my 130 at 24C to let the glycin come to life.
 
I find that to get the glycin in 130 to sing, you need to keep the developer warmer than usual. I try to run my 130 at 24C to let the glycin come to life.

Yep, it likes to be warm. I never go below 73 deg. F.....EC
 
hallo

glycin seems to be cheaper at photographers formulary.
here in austria you pay a price thats enormous 10g for 50 euro :sad:

thomas
 
The glycin will also turn on you so use it fairly quickly.

I saw a thread here where some were mixing the glycin into solution for longer storage life but I don't know the specifics.

I have 2 PF 130 kits that were given to me and BOTH the glycin packs had turned brown so I assume it's shot.
I'll need to get some fresh glycin or make up aome regular dektol from what is left in the 130 kit after adjusting the formula/amounts.
 
I keep my glycin in a glass jar topped off with nitrogen, and stored in the freezer. Keeps a few years quite easily that way.

I home mix 130, and usually only do it once a year. The stuff in stock form when mixed from pre-boiled reverese osmisis filtered water lasts longer, because there is no dissolved gasses in the water to oxidize the dissoved oxygen.

It will still act as though it is new if kept in a cool dark place under glass.

It develops as though new when put to task 10 or more month later. It may be mungy brown, but works just fine.
 
hallo

glycin seems to be cheaper at photographers formulary.
here in austria you pay a price thats enormous 10g for 50 euro :sad:

thomas

WOW that would kill me!!. I use about 4 pounds a year of the stuff!!..EC
 
I keep mine in the freezer which gives it excellent keeping qualities..EC
 
I just mixed up some developer using a partial container of glycin I put in the freezer in March of 06, 4.5+ years ago. It looked quite good with only slight discoloration (I've used worse) so I expect it will perform just fine. I'll know any day now.
 
I actually mixed a small batch with glycin that was the color of medium cocoa. It, of course, stained the paper slightly and printed about a 1/4 stop darker than fresh developer. But the print still looks beautiful.

The funny thing is, I used Ilford MG, and you know how it barely reacts with bleaches and toners...well, it took the glycin stain quite well ;-)
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom