Deep brown PF130

[rmartin]

In late April I mixed a 1l batch of Photo Formulary 130, saving 0.5l (in an airtight amber bottle) and mixing 1l of working solution. The working solution was stored in a plastic photo chemical bottle, but it was not filled to the top. Life intervened for the last 6 weeks and I did not have time to print. After reviewing the archived articles on the long life of Ansco 130 working solutions, I was not terribly worried about losing the working solution of my new favorite paper developer.

I was planning a marathon printing session for tonight to scratch the printing itch I had been having while not having time to print. I was surprised when I poured the working solution into the tray. It was a deep chocolate brown. I did make a couple prints on Ilford satin RC paper, with developing times of 4-5 minutes (I did 3-4 min when fresh). The images seemed ok but the border has a brown tone to it. Although it was quite a bit harder to tell than when fresh since the developer was opaque, the initial image emergence time appeared to be in the 20 to 30 second time frame.

I assume the brown color is from the Metol and HQ oxidizing. I was somewhat surprised that images developed, let alone emerged as quickly as they did. Was that from the Glycine still being active?

Should I pitch the working solution or relegate it to being a bottle of "old brownie" for warm tone printing? I am concerned about the tone of the borders. Is this something that could happen from 5 minutes in deep brown developer? The paper safe I used is a cheap one that I question the ultimate light tightness of (and will likely replace soon) so I am not discounting the browning of the borders being from fogging of the paper.

Not that reading APUG and having a cold one is a bad evening, it just leaves the printing itch unscratched.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

My experience with the various forms of 130 is that the brown color has little to do with it's ability to develop paper. Nor is it a sign of declining potency. Unlike Dektol and other developers I use 130 until I can't find the print in the soup or it has evaporated to the point of not covering the paper.
I suggest you print away until you realize a discrepancy in time for the complete image to materialize.

 

[craigclu]

I just finished my first big project (for me!) with 130. I used the Benzotriazole variant as I was using a paper that I had struggled with in regard to deep blacks. I spent 4 different evening sessions over a week+ and in a non-scientific manner, added some 130 from my supply bottle at each session. I had covered my 11 X 14 trays with their loose fitting proper tops (Yankee) between sessions. It darkened a bit in the trays during the week under this type of use but the densitometer showed the same degree of black on the last prints as I had been getting up front. I printed 40-50 8X10 of Ilford WTFB on 1.75L of 130. I first recalc my formulas to 1.75L to fit into large booze bottles for intial storage and then break into smaller containers as needed. For this, I just fed from my original. This is the first time I've gotten truly satisfying prints from this paper. I've got about 500 sheets from a large miscellaneous buy I made a year or so back and am very happy to have found this developer that seems so well suited to it.

 

[gainer]

Here again we have the fact that hydroquinone is a close relative of several dyes. A very small amount of oxidized hydroquinone has a very strong color which is not a good indicator of how much good stuff is left. Rodinal, we know, does the same thing. OTH, there are other developers that can go bad without any appreciable change in color. In either case, a snip test of paper or film can help decide whether to pitch or use if you have a snip test of fresh developer for comparison.

 

[Alex Hawley]

My experience with the various forms of 130 is that the brown color has little to do with it's ability to develop paper. Nor is it a sign of declining potency. Unlike Dektol and other developers I use 130 until I can't find the print in the soup or it has evaporated to the point of not covering the paper.
I suggest you print away until you realize a discrepancy in time for the complete image to materialize.

I totally agree with what Bruce said. Its been six months since I mixed my PF 130 and its still going strong; both 1:1 and 1:2 dilutions. Yep, its turned dark brown-still works though.

 

[rmartin]

Thank you all for your responses. Sounds like the browning of the paper was likely due to the piece of $%#$% paper safe. I will likely try again tonight with different paper.