Cameras are not like tube amps, where a bad electrolytic capacitor can cause the failure of other critical electronic components. At the low voltages and low capacitances of typical camera circuits, there is not much danger of cascading failures. Electronic flashes, of course, have much larger capacitors than the other parts of a camera. However, even most of my older flashes still work.
I have a pile of Nikons and most of them have working meters. Recently I got a F2 whose meter didn't work. It turned out that it wasn't getting any power from body to the prism. Some tracing with a voltmeter showed that the switch in the bottom of the body (the meter switches on when you pull the wind lever out) had a bit of corrosion. A bit of scraping and some vinegar and it was restored to life. Most repairs are unlikely to be this easy, but experience troubleshooting electronics (not in cameras) shows that electro-mechanical parts (contacts, switches, potentiometers) are far more often the cause of failures, than is breakdown of individual electronic components (resistors, transistors, film caps, etc).
I have a pile of Nikons and most of them have working meters. Recently I got a F2 whose meter didn't work. It turned out that it wasn't getting any power from body to the prism. Some tracing with a voltmeter showed that the switch in the bottom of the body (the meter switches on when you pull the wind lever out) had a bit of corrosion. A bit of scraping and some vinegar and it was restored to life. Most repairs are unlikely to be this easy, but experience troubleshooting electronics (not in cameras) shows that electro-mechanical parts (contacts, switches, potentiometers) are far more often the cause of failures, than is breakdown of individual electronic components (resistors, transistors, film caps, etc).