Dead battery! Yargh!

[MattKing]

Yes you are correct Matt, I was talking about the RZ67, I misspoke and I apologize if I mislead anyone. Now I know why people choose the RB system over the RZ system even though the RZ has slightly sharper lenses and finer focus tuning... hmmm...

Them is fightin' words ....

Most of the near-current lenses for the RB (the KL/L series) are the same optics as the near-current lenses for the RZ.

And the approach to focussing is essentially the same between the RB ProSD and the last version of the RZ67.

 

[StoneNYC]

Always carry extra batteries with you -- then sell them to other photographers when theirs die...for a nice mark-up! :

Oh good idea! Maybe I'll sell it for film!!


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[StoneNYC]

Them is fightin' words ....

Most of the near-current lenses for the RB (the KL/L series) are the same optics as the near-current lenses for the RZ.

And the approach to focussing is essentially the same between the RB ProSD and the last version of the RZ67.

I was actually not saying that in the "burn" way haha but it does look like that, I've just literally seen more talk about the RB bodies than the RZ. I have the RZ67 Pro II and I like the "finite" focusing knobs.

I had been told the glass on the RZ was better so I went with that thought, I was also told the Pro II could have a digital back even the non D version. And thought maybe someday I would get one or use it. That hasn't happened...

Oh well, I got it at a good price and tend not to shoot it as a night exposure camera just because its a lot lighter to take the Mamiya 7 but since they are both battery cameras, kind of stinks not to have another 120 choice.

I do like that the RZ Pro II backs don't have foam so I won't have to worry about replacing that which is a huge pain so I thank ultimately I made the right choice I guess.

Ok sorry to eat up this post.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ces1um]

why not just download a light meter app on your phone? They work reasonably well.

 

[sly]

I've got a light meter app. I didn't have one back in 2006, when I originally posted. I think I was still carrying a flip phone. I especially love the app for pinhole photography. The app isn't a flash meter, though.

11 years later, and that spare battery is still in the drawer. Hope it still works when the day comes that I need it.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Some meter circuits remain on all the time. It is best to remove the battery if it is expected that the device will not be used for a while. This also prevents damage from leakage.

 

[Fujicaman1957]

This is why I gave away a Nikon N6006 and replaced it with a N8008s-that ((%%*& battery for the 6006 . NOBODY within 60 miles stocks the thing! The N8008s uses AA's-every corner store stocks those.
Same reason I switched from a Luna Pro to a Luna Pro SBC-I can get a 9 volt battery in any Dollar General, Family Dollar, Walmart, etc.

 

[Roger Thoms]

Fujicaman1957 I have the 8008s and the Luna Pro SBC, yep AA's and 9v that's the way to go. Also have the Fuji GW680III and a Rolleiflex, no batteries, but you do need a light meter. These days I generally have my phone for a backup light meter. Back in 2006 I don't think that was an option.

Pretty good about having spare batteries but have certainly been caught without them.

Roger

 

[michaelorr]

I have never known a lithium battery to leak - doesn't mean it won't, but i have not seen.
I have never known alkaline or carbon batteries to NOT leak. And, no one should ever buy a carbon battery.
I have done the best as can be done with my LunaPro SBC by fitting it with a lithium 9v battery. Long lasting and never leaking. I found Kodak batteries - don't know if others make. I had a Kodak lithium battery in a digital voltmeter since 1987 and didn't replace the battery until i bought the lightmeter in about 2011. It was perfect - i bought two to outfit both devices plus a spare each in one order!

By the way, lithium metal is very light, and that results in a super light battery package compared to any other battery type (possibly zinc-air is lighter), plus, the power density of lithium chemistry is superior to any other. The military has been using lithium in batteries for many, many years.

As far as i know, it is not possible to make lithium chemistry work as low as 1.5v, so i think they are available only in 3v and up packages. So if you buy an "AA" lithium battery, make sure the "AA" does not refer to the size only. My view of calling a battery AA is that it is a 1.5v battery in the AA size.

Old batteries (with the possible exception of lithium) should be thrown out (in appropriate waste stream) even unused. I appreciate that Duracell have a great big label with date expires on their batteries. Follow that advice religiously if you value your equipment

It is probably a good idea to replace every battery in every photo device yearly (except lithium) just as we are advised to do so with our fire alarms. A safety best practice that will pay for itself in unknown catastrophes - imagine losing a camera, or worse, an image on film because of battery failure! I shutter (sic) at the thought of losing a "mona lisa" negative.

 

[Bill Burk]

....the spare battery, which, of course, turned out to be dead.

That's funny. And unexpected.

 

[faberryman]

Damn flashlight. Every time I need to use it the batteries are dead.

 

[faberryman]

Set the flash on manual and use the guide number?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I spent a leisurely few hours setting up for an 8x10 still life.

Ate dinner and then got serious about finishing touches, got out the flash meter...... And it's dead.

Lithium battery, not available at corner store or anywhere else until tomorrow.

Grrrr, grrrr, grrrrr.

that's why I exclusively use rechargeable now

 

[railwayman3]

As far as i know, it is not possible to make lithium chemistry work as low as 1.5v, so i think they are available only in 3v and up packages. So if you buy an "AA" lithium battery, make sure the "AA" does not refer to the size only. My view of calling a battery AA is that it is a 1.5v battery in the AA size.

.

I'm a bit puzzled by that part of your quote....I've never seen a AA battery which is anything other than 1.5.volt. And lithium AA are certainly available in 1.5 v., I have a pack of Energizer brand on my desk and have used them in smaller flashguns (and a lot of other electronics) for several years.

 

[michaelorr]

@railwayman3 i may have worded poorly and made it all confusing. What i meant was that lithium batteries can be found to be in "AA" sized packages, but could be a 3v cell, rather than 1.5v. Just need to be careful when procuring these that we get what we aimed to get.