Your color head (Dichromat) is continuously variable. Values between the settings given for grades 0-5 will yield intermediate contrast. More yellow/less magenta = less contrast; less yellow/more magenta = more contrast. You'll have to adjust exposure when you change contrast settings unless you use one of the regimes that keeps the density of the filtration the same.
See the Ilford document for more info (it applies to other materials and heads as well): http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130201152306.pdf
Best,
Doremus
If you want to calibrate your colour head so that the exposure time will be constant as you change contrast, you can use several methods. I used Paul Butzi's method which was published in Photo Techniques in 1998. It is quite tedious, in my opinion - you need to do it for each paper you use, or at least you need to test with each paper you use - but it does allow you to change contrast without having to adjust exposure.
I first did this several years ago with Ilford MGIV and thought that I had made a mistake because I couldn't get higher than about grade 3.5. However, as I later discovered, I can't get any higher with that paper on any enlarger I used. I was so naive at the time that this came as quite a shock! Now I am used to the fact that all papers are different and you really need to explore each one.
Coincidentally, I also used Oriental Seagull for the first time yesterday. I used MG filters because I have not tested the paper yet, but it is remarkably different from Ilford WT. In a side-by-side comparison, it is very yellow-green (developed in Dektol 1:2 for 2 minutes). I am not sure yet if I like that, but I am guessing that this colour cast will disappear somewhat with selenium toning.
Good luck with calibrating the dichroic head, if you decide to go that route. If I can be of help, let me know. I am no expert but I do learn from my own mistakes.
Oh I've been going over Paul Butzi's technique now and it's without a doubt very complex and tedious. I'm just trying to wrap my head around it!
If you want to give it a whirl, contact me. It is tedious but you will wind up with set of contrast settings that are speed-matched.
A simple alternative (time is money) is to use the Multigrade under-lens filter sets, or just think of more/less contrasty than a middling starting-point contrast, without worrying about some notional grey that happens to be the 'same' speed. The person viewing the print doesn't care what number filter was used after all.
It is a little crazy to use contrast filters if you already have a dichroic head. Seagull does not make contrast filters anyway. If the paper is designed for Ilford contrast filers, then use the printing table of Magenta/Yellow values for printing on Ilford paper with the 504 head.
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Sometimes it is easier to set the middle values with exposure then adjust the contrast to get the white and dark areas to one's liking.
Love to hear your feelings about the seagull paper after you figured it out
Best peter
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