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MattKing

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One great darkroom tip - rainy days are great for working in the darkroom!
 

Donald Qualls

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The overall density of life forms is amazing.

And yet, somehow all those lifeforms manage to hold no despite the incredible levels of DHMO in their environment! Life is tenacious!
 

MurrayMinchin

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And yet, somehow all those lifeforms manage to hold no despite the incredible levels of DHMO in their environment! Life is tenacious!
Tenacious, with a sense of humour.

If the wind was just right, I could hear them laughing hysterically while wringing out my focusing cloth between exposures.
 

cliveh

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Remember to close your box of photographic paper before you put the white light on.
 

Donald Qualls

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Remember to close your box of photographic paper before you put the white light on.

Yep, that's an important one. Same goes for sheet film (and any color of light, for most of it).
 

Sirius Glass

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But do you at least use a water wash between developer and TF4/5 fixers. I've been doing that. Are you saying that's not necessary?

The wash between the developer and TF4 or TF5 is still required and necessary.
 

Kino

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TF-4 and TF5 do not require stop bath. I use stop bath for all other fixers.

I don't want to start an argument, but you MAY use a stop bath if you like with TF5, but you don't have to.

Ron Mowery stated that you can, and that it's buffered enough to do so, but it's not required and I can see where many would not.

So this is one that can go either way...
 

Sirius Glass

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I don't want to start an argument, but you MAY use a stop bath if you like with TF5, but you don't have to.

Ron Mowery stated that you can, and that it's buffered enough to do so, but it's not required and I can see where many would not.

So this is one that can go either way...

I think that it is a good practice, but Ron had said that it was not necessary. We agree.
 

MarkS

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Since this question has come up again, I found that when using a water "stop" bath and TF-5, I would sometimes get staining along my print edges. Going to a *weak* citric acid stop bath solved that issue (along with being very careful when handling the wet print).
 

Kino

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Since this question has come up again, I found that when using a water "stop" bath and TF-5, I would sometimes get staining along my print edges. Going to a *weak* citric acid stop bath solved that issue (along with being very careful when handling the wet print).

I have been using full strength stop for a short period, but now I think I will fall back to a weak acetic acid mixture to try to extend the fixer life a bit more.

Maybe a pint of working stop added to bring the tank up to 2 liters? I will experiment.

If I were using trays, I would go full water (unless I got staining), but since I am using a Nova slot processor, I think the weak solution, changed every week or so depending upon print volume, might work better.
 
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