Darkroom Resurrection

I do have an old Kodak Dataguide with the grey card included from long ago. It seems it was for different temperatures with different films but my memory could be fuzzy on that.

Then I can't use it since the developing time would be too short for a higher than 68 degree temperature.

ColColt said:

Problem is a new adjustment developing time. That could be hit or miss each time. So, if you're using it 1:1 that's 70ml stock plus 80 ml of what you just used to bring it up to 150ml and then add 150ml water for 1:1? That for 300ml for one 35mm roll.

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From Kodak Publication J-109:


On page 11:


There are also pages on rotary processing [example: Jobo] on earlier pages.

ac12 said:

Personally I would adjust your processing to the higher summer temp. In Hawaii, I found it too difficult and too much of a hassle to try to lower the temp down to 68F.
Then in the winter you raise the chemical temp to 75F, or adjust processing to the lower winter temp.

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When I built my darkroom back in the 1980s, I installed a very small window AC unit. I have had to replace it about every three years since then. Keeps the darkroom at 68 F and hardly ever comes on as there are no windows in the darkroom. For winter, there is a 6 gallon water heater that gives me all the hot water I can use. Both are electric and don't cost an arm and a leg to run. In summer, I turn off the water heater as the water comes out of the tap plenty hot enough. I am 85 and redid my darkroom in 2014 and 2015. This year, I bought me a 4x5, hardly used, Pacemaker Crown Graphic. Crazy as hell, I know, but I wanted it and the wonderful woman that I am married to said YES one more time........Regards!

ColColt said:

Then I can't use it since the developing time would be too short for a higher than 68 degree temperature.

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When you replenish a developer it has less activity than stock developer, which means you end up with developing times very similar to 1:1 dilution.
What slows the developer down are bromides and other byproducts that naturally occur in the film processing cycle. These compounds are what makes the developer different from fresh chemistry; it makes you lose speed, but you gain sharpness and finer grain, and a different tonality.

It is actually easier to do than diluting 1:1, and if you find yourself not using up the whole 5 liter kit while doing 1:1 you wouldn't use it up with replenished developer either, but you were going to throw out the excess anyway...

I loved working with replenished Xtol, particularly with Fomapan 200 and Kodak TMax 400 (and 100) films. Great results for my tastes. I went through dozens of 5 liter packets and never had to mix a new batch during the five years I used it. Dead accurate, dead reliable; never missed a beat.

Anyway, don't shy away from replenished developers out of fear that it'll be difficult. Particularly with Xtol where the stock developer is also the replenisher. It is so very easy to do. But if you simply don't want to, no worries.

A long time ago working for a studio in Kansas City Mo. we had a water temperature problem and solved it by purchasing a remote drinking fountain chiller and small tank used from a demolition company.Then acquired a new 40 gallon water heater tank from a plumbing supply company(as the outer shroud had been dented so they couldn't sell it damaged).Connected the chiller/tank unit to the cold incoming water line and using a small aquarium pump,cycled the chilled water between the two tanks till the desired temperature was achieved(we allowed it to run all night when necessary)at that point the cool water was available at a third tap so it could be mixed with city water for what ever temperature was needed."Rube Goldberg" for sure but it worked well for 5 or 6 years. It was used that way in the warm months and in the winter the chilled water was run through an automobile heater core with a fan attached blowing cool air into the process chemical storage cabinet which only had a heater to maintain proper temperature for E6 chemicals. DIY but effective.

I developed prints a room temp all year round.

Film is developed at 68, D76 1:1. If the room is 72, I cool the water to 66 before mixing. Also temper the developing tank. A few ice cubes cools the tap water down for water bath and I add a little ice as required. Actually you can let the water drift up to room temp when development is complete.

Wash water can go in a gallon jug and first rinse will be 69, second 70, and raise slowly to room at finish. The idea is not to shock the film. The Ilford wash sequence works and little water is required.

No reason why a cube can not cool fix or developer . Use dial thermometer and remove cube with spoon when lower temp is achieved. The way ice works is it takes a lot of heat to pass through solid to liquid phase at 32 , then little to melt further. For this reason there is little dilution.

I have also put chems in glass containers into the frig. 15 min will get it to 68. Plastic containers are insulators. Use glass. Check with dial thermometer or electronic one.

I just think you need to figure how not to waste water like a commercial darkroom.

I put a few ice cubes in a zip-lock bag and put it right in the developer for a few seconds. Works well.

I do film in a Jobo, to keep it in control in the warm monthes I freeze water in a bottle and leave it in the bath.