Darkroom Cost? Estimates?

[mtbbrian]

So I want to build a darkroom in my home, it's something that I think about a lot lately.
I have the space and as some of may recall I have an enlarger as well, but that's all.
My biggest challenge right now are the resources to construct my darkroom.
The space I have is roughly 5'x6'.
I'll need to build one wall with a door, and I know what else I'll need.
So in order for me to achieve my goal, I need to know what kind of capital I need to raise.
I will need to do some electrical and some plumbing work to make it work.
Thanks!
Brian

 

[Neal]

Dear Brian,

Assuming you can do the work, the materials should cost no more than a few hundred dollars. This is not meant as an insult, but your question makes me believe that you don't yet possess the skills required. Take a few free lessons at the local home center on plumbing, electrical and drywall. Trust me, you don't have to be a master to build a darkroom, but you don't want to make any dumb mistakes with the electrical or plumbing.

I hope you enjoy building and using your darkroom.

Neal Wydra

 

[Roger Hicks]

$0 to $10,000.

A lot depends on what you want and what you can raise for free. Enlarger timer or clock with seconds hand? Second-hand trays or new Novatanks? With careful buying at photo fairs, $100 will see it all-in for equipment (the building work is another matter). With a new Novatank, RH designs timer, etc -- top of the line stuff, and (as anyone who uses them will assure you) well worth the money -- you'll be lucky to see much change from $2,000, given that you already have an enlarger.

At the risk of blowing my own trumpet, take a look at Darkroom Basics -- and beyond by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz and at the free bits of the Photo School at www.rogerandfrances.com. Of course I hope you'll subscribe as well but the free bits are still pretty good, including Basics, the Glossary, Our Darkroom and more.

Sorry I can't be more help but it really is a 'how long is a piece of string' question.

Cheers,

Roger

 

[ann]

i had a student who once built his darkroom in a basement using heavy black plastic sheeting and a few metal rods.

is a finished wall and door wonderful; of course, but depending on your imagation and wallet a lot can be done very cheaply.

 

[Robert Hall]

Brian,

You are welcome to contact me and come down to lehi and see mine, we could chat about what you need and what you want. (can be a big difference between the two. lol )

 

[mtbbrian]

Brian,

You are welcome to contact me and come down to lehi and see mine, we could chat about what you need and what you want. (can be a big difference between the two. lol )

I appreciate that Robert!
Mine won't be like yours whatsoever though.
Brian

 

[jmdavis]

There are a number of books that can help you in this. Kodak has a "Building a Home Darkroom," then there is "Build Your Own Darkroom" by Lista Duren. I haven't read Roger's book but based on his books that I have read, I'm sure that it is good.

There are also alot of resources online. Google "DIY Darkroom" and "Darkroom Construction". Five by six is a bit tight, but certainly doable. My current darkroom is 5x7 and it allows a fivefoot sink (with storage underneath), a five foot dryside to support 2 enlargers or an enlarger and contact printing area (also with storage underneath. You can also but shelves on the walls for storage.

The materials will vary in cost. The more that you can scrounge, the better. But if its just a single wall and a door, it won't be much. I found cabinets that a contractor was sending to the landfill on a kitchen remodel and that provided the base on the dry side. A homemade plywood sink can do the trick on the wet side.

Good luck,


Mike

 

[Monophoto]

Brian -

The basic shell for a darkroom (walls, wiring, basic plumbing) should not cost more than a few hundred dollars, assuming there is access to both hot/cold water supply and a drain in the area you will be using. If you have to plumb in a water supply, that will increase your cost a bit if you can do the work yourself, or a lot if you have to hire a plumber. The drain could be more of a challenge - if you are above the level of the house drain, the cost probably won't be significant. If you are below that level, then you are looking at some kind of reservoir and lift pump arrangement, and that will set you back another couple hundred.

Where you will encounter variability is in how you choose to outfit the darkroom. The two major areas are:

- cabinetry. As a minimum you will need counter space. That can be as simple as a recycled picnic table, or as elaborate as prefabricated kitchen cabinets with a formica countertop.

- darkroom accessories. Are you planning on trays, or some form of automated processor (a Jobo or clone)? If the former, you can probably pick up everything you need for another hundred bucks at the next photo flea market in your area (there is a listing in Shutterbug).

My suggestion is that before you commit yourself, you visit some other darkrooms to get some ideas about what you want to include in yours. Then, come back with specifics and we can be more helpful.

 

[Jim Jones]

I'm with Roger Hicks. Black plastic from a farm and garden store worked fine to partition off two of my darkrooms. Only one of the six or seven darkrooms I've improvised had anything like a darkroom sink. One didn't even have running water or a drain in the building. If you understand thoroughly the basic operations of a darkroom, you can usually find simple ways of doing them with what you have or can easily get. The one thing that should be done right is the electrical wiring. Several times the anticipated number of outlets, all protected by a ground fault circuit interruptor, are worth the cost and effort. Local codes may dictate other things such as a siphon breaker on the water supply and special provisions for disposing of photographic wastes.

 

[mtbbrian]

I should also add:
I want my darkroom to be pretty permanant, I am in this for the long hall.
As much as I'd like to do both color and black and white, it will probably just be a black and white one.
These are some great suggestions.
Thanks!
Brian

 

[Peter Williams]

Brian-

Because your work space is so small, I'll follow Roger's suggestion to get a Nova print processor. It takes an amazingly small amount of space, and the fact that the chemicals can stay in them from session to session means that I print more frequently because I can hop in for an hour at a time without the long set up. I found my 11x14 four slot processor on Craigslist for $100. Maybe the best $100 I have ever spent on photography. As for the construction, it wouldn't hurt to have a contractor or two bid the job for you - that will give you a good idea of what will be required and if it turns out to be more complicated than expected, perhaps you strike a deal to have the contractor handle the really sticky points.

Good Luck.

 

[david b]

My space, which is about a year old and measures 8.5 x 14 cost under $1000 without the plumbing. I already had electric in the space and use a few extension cords. The plumbing was the biggest expense.

I had to put up two walls and a door. Painting was fun. Now I am working on my studio.

Plan it out on paper and then go forward. And go through (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

 

[Chris Breitenstein]

If you are going to be constructing then you should speak with the local municipality about building codes, otherwise you could run into some trouble later on.
When designing a darkroom you should work backwards. Determin what size prints you are going to want to make and go from there.
When I built my darkroom i built everything in it. Sink, work surface etc... I originaly built to just develop film, and then modified it to make contact prints. from start to finish mine cost about $400, that includes an omega D2
I have yet to plug in (what a waste).
Obviously design is of the utmost importance. Being able to create and maintain a workflow and enjoy the room itself is more important then staying under budget in my opinion. Just remember "build your first darkroom for an enemy, your second for a friend and the third for yourself."

Perhaps what you should do is draw up some detailed plans and then post them for critique and review.

Hope I was of some help.

Sincerely;

 

[CBG]

Hi,

Great photos on your site!

You darkroom - BW or color or both? BW can be done incredibly cheaply if you are adventurous.

What format(s)? I'm guessing that you are looking at 120 - Holga and thus an enlarger.

If bigger format, you may be able to get away (for a while or forever) with just a hanging bulb, sheet of glass and a piece of foam rubber as a contact printer. Hmmm - 8x10 point and shoot with a plastic lens???? ULH shooting - Ultra Large Holga.

Ladder stacked trays can shrink the footprint needed to do all tray processing - the Nova slot processor is great too.

I believe in keeping all wires leading up the wall towards the ceiling, and carefully fastening them to the wall and ceiling so no loose wires can swing down to endanger life. String pull-chain switches keep hands away from volts.

Best,

C

 

[mtbbrian]

Hi,

Great photos on your site!

You darkroom - BW or color or both? BW can be done incredibly cheaply if you are adventurous.

What format(s)? I'm guessing that you are looking at 120 - Holga and thus an enlarger.

If bigger format, you may be able to get away (for a while or forever) with just a hanging bulb, sheet of glass and a piece of foam rubber as a contact printer. Hmmm - 8x10 point and shoot with a plastic lens???? ULH shooting - Ultra Large Holga.

Ladder stacked trays can shrink the footprint needed to do all tray processing - the Nova slot processor is great too.

I believe in keeping all wires leading up the wall towards the ceiling, and carefully fastening them to the wall and ceiling so no loose wires can swing down to endanger life. String pull-chain switches keep hands away from volts.

Best,

C

Thanks for looking at my site!
I do both 35 and 120. Funny you say that, Ultra Large Holga. I often do diptychs from adjacent negatives, which creates a negative somewhere about 6x15 cm.
The enlarger I have is a Beseler 45M, I got it just so I can do diptychs.
I want to do up to 16"x20" prints.
Thanks for the suggestions as well.
Brian

 

[Curt]

Figure about $45.00 a square foot for basic, go up for addons.

 

[jmdavis]

Figure about $45.00 a square foot for basic, go up for addons.

$45/sqft for materials?

 

[dianna]

The investment in a darkroom is SO worth it! You'll never regret it. We converted our one-car garage into our darkroom and ours came out to around $50/sq ft (ours is roughly 150 sq feet). This is what I'm including in that number:

All the materials for the work listed below including sinks and revolving door
Installation of a subfloor
Installation of an interior wall and revolving darkroom door
Installation of exterior door
Electrical work (outlets, switches, addition of a fuse box to the house)
Plumbing (two sinks: hot/cold water with shutoff valves and drains)

We hired contractors to do the work in phases and spread it out over a year. We didn't hire anyone to finish out the room (plaster and paint, flooring) - that was not as important as having a functional darkroom and we're gradually doing the finishing when we have time...

$45/sqft for materials?

 

[Maris]

My new 9ftx7ft darkroom has just been finished and I tray developed some 8x10 film to make sure the dark does not leak out or the light in. Works fine.

Instead of building it myself I used professionals for virtually everything. The carpenters, plumbers, electricians, air-conditioning guys, and cabinet makers were to to do it good and not fret about costs.

I already had a 8ft PVC sink, enlarger equipment, safelights, stereo etc from my previous set up so this project cost about A$5000. I guess that is about as expensive as it gets but I figure this is my last darkroom and it needs to be nice. I'm going to be spending a lot of time in there.

 

[JLP]

Brian, Just a suggestion. Even if you already by now know that Roberts darkroom is way beyond what you can build right now, take him up on his offer, you can get a lot of good ideas by seeing how a good darkroom is set up. It does not have to cost a lot with a little patience and some thinking.
Mine is not ideal for now, it's a spare bedroom without running water but the bathroom is right next door so that is where my washing and film procesing is done. I'm very happy to work that way even it is a bit slow.
Wish you good luck and happy building.

jan

 

[Curt]

It can also be as nice as you can find things to make it nice. I was given, that's right given, a dozen 5/8 inch sheets of 5x8 foot old, really old, but very clean mahogany plywood with thick plys. My darkroom ceiling is made of these sheets, not all of the sheets but the ceiling is completely covered.

Look at Lowes for close outs on flooring. Any surplus door/ moulding/ salvage stores nearby? If you shop a bit and look around you can find sinks, faucets, etc. and save some $$. Remember that if it is nice in there you will want to be in there more. The right heating and or cooling, lighting, seating, a stool or chair for the back, and nice walls and floors make all the difference.

Curt

 

[Curt]

Another thought, don't get overwelmed with getting it right at first. There might be some things that you will change, keep that in mind before making everything permanent.

Where is the plumbing going to be, is there a drain and vent and where is it located? Where is the electrical service coming in? Remember a separate circuit is best and GFIC is a must. In cold weather a heated pad to stand on is great. Standing on a concrete floor is hard on the body. Switched lights, back flow preventers for the faucets are a must, especially when a hose is attached to one of them. Nothing like a cup of coffee and chemicals when the chemicals are sucked up by turning on the kitchen faucet! Ventilation so you don't become a permanent fixture in there. I built my sink by putting it on two two by fours on edge between two walls. That leaves complete open unobstructed room under it. In the cold winter even with room heat I can put a radiant heater under the sink and the trays stay at temperature. You have to experiment and see what works in your environment. My darkroom is on a second floor over a garage so it gets colder in the winter and it's hotter in the summer so I have to adjust. Since it's over my shop I placed the floor joists at 12 inches on center when I built it so the floor doesn't have any bounce. I just have to finish the 600 sq ft room and it will be a great place. I have a bathroom up there and plan on a 30 foot wall for gallery prints. It's a studio type place that is separate from the house by 20 feet.

Good luck,
Curt

 

[removed account4]

i built a lab a few years ago, it was done in the middle of the night ..
bunch of 2x4s, some drywall .. it wasn't hard, and it was all done to code.
the electrical was checked / connected to the box by a pro ) and the plumbing was done by
a pro ... i put the drop ceiling up myself, and that was the hardest part of the whole project.
what a PITA! but it keeps all the dust/debris from my subflooring off of my film and prints ...
the cost wasn't too much now that i think about it ... just wood and drywall ...
it was the time that cost a lot ... some days, but the middle of the night for many many nights.


thinking back, i wish i made a wood sink, my plastic arkay (?) sags in the middle and i hate it.
a wood sink isn't hard to make ( just marine plywood, and screws, and fiberglass resin.
the counter is ez too, ply ( 1/2" ) and 4x4s for legs ) ... and part of it
(underneath) is a bunch of drying screens/print rack made of
chop/lathe, windowscreen and staples.

the only think i don't have is a door.
i use 3 piecs of thick black canvas and it works very well.

good luck!

john

 

[eric]

i had a student who once built his darkroom in a basement using heavy black plastic sheeting and a few metal rods.

I had one darkroom like this.
I ductaped painting plastic to the ceiling. It was good but then I took it down (it was in my garage) and I just printed at night. I was starting to feel claustrophobic.

 

[percepts]

most important is getting your design correct. 5x6 feet is small. Get the basics correct. i.e. very firm platform for your enlarger. Wall mounted is best if possible as this means baseboard can be detached which can free up work top space when enlarger not in use. If the floor is not solid, i.e. boards, then if enlarger is not wall mounted then you moving about will vibrate the enlarger.

What are biggest size trays? 3 20x24 trays won't fit on along a 5 foot wall and if you put them on the 6 foot side you only have 30ins each side for work top. That leaves nowhere for you to stand!

good luck