D76, water and plain hypo?

[princessprav]

Hi all. I'm posting here to confirm whether Kodak D76, a water stop bath and plain sodium thiosulfate would suffice, to develop 35mm and 120 ilford hp5+, and paper too, with another fixer bath.
thank you.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

First this thread is on the wrong forum. It should be B&W developing. But you're forgiven as you just joined. Welcome to APUG.

D-76 can be used on film but not paper. An acid stop bath is required if you are using FB papers. If you don't use an acid stop then film and RC papers need a quick rinse to reduce carryover. Change the water frequently while printing. To be clear a plain hypo bath is not exactly just plain hypo in water. It contains sodium sulfite in addition.

 

[Photo Engineer]

D76 is not suitable with some papers, and if you get nonuniformity you may want to use a stop bath.

PE

 

[MattKing]

Hi all. I'm posting here to confirm whether Kodak D76, a water stop bath and plain sodium thiosulfate would suffice, to develop 35mm and 120 ilford hp5+, and paper too, with another fixer bath.
thank you.

Welcome to APUG.
That combination will work well for film, although it would be wise to add a drying aid such as photo flo.
For paper, a paper developer such as Dektol is a much better choice than D76. Sodium thiosulfate will be fine for fixing paper.
By the way, you have posted this in the Colour sub-forum, when the Black and White sub-forum would be better. It's not a big problem, but the moderators will most likely move it there.
I'm sure many of us would like to hear more about what it is like to be a film photographer in Sri Lanka. You should consider "introducing" yourself in the thread set aside for that purpose: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
EDIT: and I agree with the suggestions above for stop bath with fibre based prints

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Thread moved to B&W.

 

[removed account4]

you can use plain water instead of stop bath for both film and prints ( RC and FIBER )
i have for years ( 29 ) with no bad effects. plain hypo will be fine,
but it will take longer to fix your prints than "speed" fixer. i have never used
d76 for film or prints so i don' t know if it will be active enough of a developer
to be used with your prints, probably not, but it will be OK for your film.
if you have to only use 1 developer ( for your film and prints ) you might consider dektol
you can dilute it 1:6 and develop your film in it for about 6 mins, and you can dilute it 1:1 or 1:2 and
use it to develop your prints. dektol should be readily available if you are able to find d76.

i am not sure if you are interesting in "experimenting" but you might also consider a developer
made of instant coffee, sodium carbonate ( you can heat up sodium bicarbonate (bakingsoda) to get moisture out and make
sodium carbonate ) and vitamin c. it will develop both your film and prints. if you have d76, or dektol
you can add a little bit in, to speed up the process, add a little more contrast &c. i have been using coffee
developer this way for more than 10 years ... i started by putting a little ansco 130 in it ( similar to dektol )
and now i do this same thing with dektol. i have also been developing my film in either ansco 130 (mostly) or dektol( for maybe 3 years) since the late 1990s/2000.


good luck !
john

ps the developers i mentioned work well with 35mm, 120 and sheet film. you might have to
adjust your agitation with 35mm, or if it (dektol) gives too much contrast dilute it a little more.

 

[haziz]

you can use plain water instead of stop bath for both film and prints ( RC and FIBER )
i have for years ( 29 ) with no bad effects. plain hypo will be fine,
but it will take longer to fix your prints than "speed" fixer. i have never used
d76 for film or prints so i don' t know if it will be active enough of a developer
to be used with your prints, probably not, but it will be OK for your film.
if you have to only use 1 developer ( for your film and prints ) you might consider dektol
you can dilute it 1:6 and develop your film in it for about 6 mins, and you can dilute it 1:1 or 1:2 and
use it to develop your prints. dektol should be readily available if you are able to find d76.

i am not sure if you are interesting in "experimenting" but you might also consider a developer
made of instant coffee, sodium carbonate ( you can heat up sodium bicarbonate (bakingsoda) to get moisture out and make
sodium carbonate ) and vitamin c. it will develop both your film and prints. if you have d76, or dektol
you can add a little bit in, to speed up the process, add a little more contrast &c. i have been using coffee
developer this way for more than 10 years ... i started by putting a little ansco 130 in it ( similar to dektol )
and now i do this same thing with dektol. i have also been developing my film in either ansco 130 (mostly) or dektol( for maybe 3 years) since the late 1990s/2000.


good luck !
john

ps the developers i mentioned work well with 35mm, 120 and sheet film. you might have to
adjust your agitation with 35mm, or if it (dektol) gives too much contrast dilute it a little more.

While Dektol can be used for both Prints and film (using different dilutions), you likely will get better resuls using D76 for film. To the OP, I would suggest sticking to D76 for film if you find it available, where you are.

 

[removed account4]

While Dektol can be used for both Prints and film (using different dilutions), you likely will get better resuls using D76 for film. To the OP, I would suggest sticking to D76 for film if you find it available, where you are.

i have never used d76, but i have used sprint film developer, xtol, dk50, ansco130, caffenolc, and maybe another developer or 2
and dilute dektol gives up a negative as nice as the rest of them. over the years i have heard commentary that it will give golf ball sized grain / terrible negatives
but those comments, like a lot of things on the internet are not true. certainly the OP should stick with d76 ( or anything else he/she wants ) but it SEEMED the OP
asked for a universal developer ( film and prints different dilutions ). unlike a lot of folks on the internets, i actually suggest things i have done myself, and i am not speculating
&c. i've been using dektol with with film since 2014, and ansco 130 or one of its universal developer cousins since the 1990s. there really is no problem working with 1 developer for film and prints. i've made prints
that i have sold for $$ ( both enlargments and contact prints ) asd well as things found in libraries/archives ..
and scans/digital prints that have been pritned very small and very large ... no issue.
one just needs to realize that not all the hype ( negative and positive alike ) is true, and a lot of the time people with no experience regurgitate the same old same old again and again and again ...
with no clue about what they are talking about.