FWIW, I think the papparazzi and White House Press Corp are the only "hordes of photographers" I've ever seen
If you're doing continuous rotary processing, you don't actually need to cover the reels. With the tank in a horizontal position, you only need to fill up to the center column or thereabouts.
You are probably not into bird photography then.
Augustus and I differ on the question of how much to fill a tank. "Normal" inversion agitation - for me - requires there be sufficient air in the tank to permit the fluid to "tumble" and gurgle through the film.
I would approach the issue differently if I was using a reduced agitation regime.
Sorry I am stíll puzzling over your quote above: Is 9 mins the development time you use? If so how much of that time does the agitation last? When I mentioned 14 mins I just plucked that figure out of the air for the sake of trying to find out what "more than half straight agitation "was
Do you gently invert and tilt the tank once at each chosen interval and if so what time intervals do you use ie. once every 30 seconds, once every minute or some other interval
Thanks
pentaxuser
If you fill to the top which is 240/50 ml then turn on its side wouldn't a lot of of the developer slosh around the red rubber cap and thus do nothing as it is permanently outside the actual tank itself?
... What does happen is if you use a fairly strong stop bath after a high-sulfite developer like D23, is that sulfur dioxide will be formed. At a low pH (<4.0 IIRC), sulfite will break down into sulfur dioxide....
I do 14 minutes total. 9 minutes straight then agitate 10 seconds very minute. agitation is simply inverting my tank but as im inverting it, i twist it slightly.
Is it possible that you are confusing Sodium thiosulfate with Sodium sulfite?
Sodium sulfite (Na2 S O3) protects hypo (Na2 S2 O3) against acids and prevents sulfur formation.
So the first "9 mins straight" consists of what sort of agitation? It is the word straight that has me puzzled. Is this one inversion only per minute for 9 mins then the normal Iford agitation of 10 secs per minute thereafter until 14 mins
Thanks
pentaxuser
To be honest, I stopped using a stop bath a long time ago. True, I usually use an acid fix, but I actually use a water "stop" bath, mostly to avoid contaminating the fix. I have never seen any problems. I would use a stop bath if using super intensive developer and correspondingly very short times (for example when trying to suppress fog on old negatives). But generally I don't cause myself any problems
There's a huge pinned thread that I never got around to reading through - maybe it raises more questions than it answers...
i just continuously invert and twist, usually 3-5 seconds per inversion (as in i take my tank, go around slowly for those 3-5 seconds before upright) and just do that for 9 mins then 10 seconds per minute until my times up. I use the same stock (kentmere 400) and d76 (and now d23) and they come out good enough for me.
Thanks now I understand. Just out of curiosity what is the reason you do 9 mins at one type of agitation then switch for 5 mins to the Ilford agitation?
pentaxuser
Picklesfrog, that's great if you can remember to do the same agitation for the same proportion of time for other films with different development times but if simplicity with quality is your aim then sticking to the Ilford agitation routine may be easier. I'd be surprised if the negatives will not be as good
pentaxuser
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