- Nov 20, 2002
Just wondering if anybody has actually used Mike Ware's new cyanotype process, and how they think it compares to the traditional method.
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titrisol said:Donald Qualls showed me some awesome cyanotypes the other day, and he mentioned that "toning" with tea increased the permanence of them.
So I went back to TimRudman's toning book and found a mention to toning with tea+pyro for cyanotypes without any more explanations.
Toned cyanotypes are not regarded as being archival. Properly processed cyanotypes are very archival. The image will last as long as the paper does.rogueish said:I thought I read in Tim Rudman's book that staining with tea was not considered archival. (In the tea/coffe section, not the cyanotype section.) If I remember correctly he said that staining cyanotypes with tea darkened the shadows and would give a duo tone to the print if left long enough.(please correct me if I'm wrong.)
Sorry don't know anything about pyro and the book is at home while I'm at work.
psvensson said:I've tried both tea and pure tannic acid, which is probably the active toning substance in tea. Together with baking soda in different configurations, it can produce a cold black, an attractive red brown or a lavender blue. Very versatile.
I've read different things about the permanence of these prints. It doesn't seem like toning of cyanotypes was very common in the 19th century, so there's a lack of data. My gut feeling is that tannic acid does provide archival permanence: in fact, it's used by conservators to preserve iron.
donbga said:I would suggest you read W. Russell Young's chapter on cyanotype printing in John Barnier's book "Coming Into Focus". On page 46 Russell writes:
"My best advice for toning cyanotype prints is this: If you want a color other than the Prussian blue natural to the cyanotype process, use some other printing method! There are ways to alter the signature color, but none of the formulas that produce reds or browns is stable. The prints will either yellow or fade in a matter of weeks."
John_Brewer said:My only experimentation has involved hydrolysing with ammonia and redeveloping in tea or tannin. In both occassions the paper badly stained and the dmax was much lower than the original cyanotype resulting in a low contrast muddy print.
Gustavo_Castilla said:I have and I think I preferd the A+B better and Ilike even more the cyanotype Rex and
the Chrysotype Rex method easyer to comtrol and well they all are beatiful
psvensson said:Ole, you can actually watch the tones deepen when you tone with tea? It takes me an hour to get a visible difference. I would yank it after two, because after that the tea starts to stain the paper.
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