Having adhered gelatin to lots of things, I know that adhesion is mostly a matter of procedures, layer thickness and pre-treatment of the substrate. Gelatin is not as pH sensitive as you might think; it's pretty robust over a fairly wide range. As to contrast and dmax, I think purity is a more relevant criterion. The main issue here is that most gelatins are pretty yellow and that will make a cyanotype look slightly greenish. The gelatin I use the most when I need neutral color is in fact a porcine gelatin. Moreover, inclusions like bone matter would have an influence, but even food-grade gelatins are fairly pure these days. Now, New Cyanotype is a little fussy, more so than the classic formula, so I'm sure there will be differences between gelatins. I'd personally start with something you can easily pick up at the local supermarket and then solve any problems as they emerge.