Current Lith Paper Availability

Bob Carnie · Apr 5, 2017

I am in a bit of a panic... B&H is not able to deliver Slavich 4 which was ordered.

Is Foma a viable paper?, do not care matt or glossy , but I need 75 sheets 16 x20 and would appreciate name of paper and code number if possible.
much thanks in advance

Bob

Bob Carnie · Apr 5, 2017

I am in a bit of a panic... B&H is not able to deliver Slavich 4 which was ordered.

Is Foma a viable paper?, do not care matt or glossy , but I need 75 sheets 16 x20 and would appreciate name of paper and code number if possible.
much thanks in advance

Bob

GregW · Apr 5, 2017

I take it time is of the essence, But for future projects Foma is coming out with a new paper for Lith and Bromoil etc.. http://bit.ly/2oJz753

Bob Carnie · Apr 5, 2017

GregW said:
I take it time is of the essence, But for future projects Foma is coming out with a new paper for Lith and Bromoil etc.. http://bit.ly/2oJz753

thanks but I am looking for paper that is in stock either at B&H or Freestyle, I need to print next tuesday wed and thursday.

RauschenOderKorn · Apr 5, 2017

Bob Carnie said:
I am in a bit of a panic... B&H is not able to deliver Slavich 4 which was ordered.

Is Foma a viable paper?, do not care matt or glossy , but I need 75 sheets 16 x20 and would appreciate name of paper and code number if possible.
much thanks in advance

Bob

Fomatone MG 131/133 and Fomabrom variant 111 FB will lith. Fomatone usually give olive to reddish colours (tried myself) while Fomabrom is supposed to be more yellowish (from the description at macodirect.de). Fomatone is easy to lith, it can take a lot of light. It is perfectly suited for the Moersch two bath system, and can lith it in strong lith developer with a short time (1+1+5+5 - 3 mins) and then get the colours you might desire from a second additive bath or toning.

I have not tried fomabrom, but I have been told that is is not as easy to lith. But i hope other members can contribute their own experience instead of my hearsay.

MrBrowning · Apr 5, 2017

Bob Carnie said:
I am in a bit of a panic... B&H is not able to deliver Slavich 4 which was ordered.

Is Foma a viable paper?, do not care matt or glossy , but I need 75 sheets 16 x20 and would appreciate name of paper and code number if possible.
much thanks in advance

Bob

I used Foma 133 (8x10) that I purchased from freestyle in the last few months and ran a couple lith prints. The only one I was happy with is bellow. I don't know if it helps or not.

Toy Truck

MrBrowning
Jan 16, 2017
3

Found an old truck laying in the leaves at my parents place last summer. Finally printed the...

Bob Carnie · Apr 5, 2017

MrBrowning said:
I used Foma 133 (8x10) that I purchased from freestyle in the last few months and ran a couple lith prints. The only one I was happy with is bellow. I don't know if it helps or not.

Toy Truck

MrBrowning

Jan 16, 2017

3

Found an old truck laying in the leaves at my parents place last summer. Finally printed the...

Yes it does actually , why were you not happy , with the image itself or the way the paper and chemistry performed... I have LD20 for a develper

MrBrowning · Apr 5, 2017

Bob Carnie said:
Yes it does actually , why were you not happy , with the image itself or the way the paper and chemistry performed... I have LD20 for a develper

The other images needed more work and time was getting short. It was a printer issue not a paper issue with the other ones. I used LD20 with the Foma 133 before I ran out of it. Right now I'm working through my last bit of Arista Lith and then probably going back to LD20.

adelorenzo · Apr 5, 2017

Hi Bob,

Fomatone papers are my choice for lith. I've tried the 131 (glossy) and 132 (matt) papers and also have a box of the 532 I haven't tried yet with is matt paper with a 'nature' base whatever that means. I use Moersch Easy Lith.

The natural color is yellow/peach which goes more neutral in selenium and then becomes progressively redder with longer toning. I've also bleached this paper to help brighten highlights and it works great. Haven't tried any sepia toners yet.

Sorry these aren't the best prints but I'm not at home right now to scan anything else.

Fomatone 131 overexposed 2 stops
Moersch Easy Lith 1:1:50 approx 6-7 mins
#1 is untoned
#2 is toned in Moersch Carbon Toner 1:20 for around 10 minutes -- I get similar results with selenium toner

Neal · Apr 6, 2017

Dear Bob,

Check Adorama. I purchased Slavich from them last fall.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra

Bob Carnie · Apr 6, 2017

B&H lists foma but no stock

Freestyle I called and they a nice young lady put me on hold for over 5min so I hung up.

I think we are going with ART 300- but thank you all.

RauschenOderKorn · Apr 7, 2017

Bob Carnie said:
I think we are going with ART 300-

How do you lith it, like Ilford Warmtone in your youtube video?

Bob Carnie · Apr 7, 2017

RauschenOderKorn said:
How do you lith it, like Ilford Warmtone in your youtube video?

Yes Its the same emulsion IMO

ericdan · Sep 5, 2018

adelorenzo said:
Hi Bob,

Fomatone papers are my choice for lith. I've tried the 131 (glossy) and 132 (matt) papers and also have a box of the 532 I haven't tried yet with is matt paper with a 'nature' base whatever that means. I use Moersch Easy Lith.

The natural color is yellow/peach which goes more neutral in selenium and then becomes progressively redder with longer toning. I've also bleached this paper to help brighten highlights and it works great. Haven't tried any sepia toners yet.

Sorry these aren't the best prints but I'm not at home right now to scan anything else.

Fomatone 131 overexposed 2 stops
Moersch Easy Lith 1:1:50 approx 6-7 mins
#1 is untoned
#2 is toned in Moersch Carbon Toner 1:20 for around 10 minutes -- I get similar results with selenium toner

View attachment 176652 View attachment 176653

How do I read this dilution?
"Moersch Easy Lith 1:1:50 approx 6-7 mins"?

I use Easy Lith like this:
20ml A + 20ml B + 700ml Water
what would that be in your notation?

btw, with the above dilution I develop for about 8-12 minutes to get similar, maybe a little more orange, peachy results.
Fomatone MG 131 3 stops over exposed

scheimfluger_77 · Sep 6, 2018

M Carter said:
...though this weekend I printed an ebay find of 16x20 Forte Warmtone RC gloss and it's freaking spectacular stuff - that was one hell of an RC paper and looks like a good quality fiber gloss)...

I find this encouraging. A while ago I purchased 14 packages of 25/5x7 Polywarmtone glossy RC. Haven’t done anything yet but more excited now.

adelorenzo · Sep 6, 2018

ericdan said:
How do I read this dilution?
"Moersch Easy Lith 1:1:50 approx 6-7 mins"?

I use Easy Lith like this:
20ml A + 20ml B + 700ml Water
what would that be in your notation?

btw, with the above dilution I develop for about 8-12 minutes to get similar, maybe a little more orange, peachy results.
Fomatone MG 131 3 stops over exposed

That means 20 ml of solutions A and B in 1000 ml of water. Although these days I have moved up to 25 ml which would be 1:1:40. I add about 200 ml of old brown.

Your solution is a bit stronger it is 1:1:35. Hope that makes sense.

Dali · Sep 6, 2018

Pretty strong indeed... My usual dilution is 1:1:64 using your notation or 1+32 according to Moersch notation.

Doremus Scudder · Sep 6, 2018

For those still looking for Slavich papers, take a look at the thread on the Slavich Buyers Group here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/slavich-photo-paper-buyers-group.161944/ Yes, Slavich is still available, just no distributors in the West. Mark Larsen is spearheading a large order direct from the manufacturer.

There is an order planned for October 1st, so hurry if you want to get in on it.

Best,

Doremus

ericdan · Sep 6, 2018

Interesting. And I thought the warm colors only come with higher dilution. I still get really warm colors and it takes almost 10 mins to develop.

mooseontheloose · Sep 7, 2018

ericdan said:
Interesting. And I thought the warm colors only come with higher dilution. I still get really warm colors and it takes almost 10 mins to develop.

I guess people have different ideas of what higher (weaker) dilutions mean - I always thought it meant more than 1+1+20 (although I would consider that pretty strong personally). Both Rudman and Moersch have talked about weaker dilutions in the 1+1+25 to 40 range. There is also an equation (from Moersch) that higher dilutions require more time under the enlarger, while stronger ones require less time. I can't remember if I read that here (when he still posted here) or on his website.

What are your dilutions/developer/paper? How many stops are you overexposing? Are you using old brown? What temp is your developer? There are a lot of variables to consider. In the beginning I was fascinated by the colours of lith but now I prefer very weak ones. Since I prefer the look of weaker dilutions for the overall picture, controlling colour is difficult since weaker dilutions and hot lith (for speed) both add colour, especially when using Foma papers. I don't add OB at all to keeps colours at bay. I also add more B than A (for example 20A + 25B + 1000 water) which also keeps colour in check.

ericdan · Sep 8, 2018

mooseontheloose said:
I guess people have different ideas of what higher (weaker) dilutions mean - I always thought it meant more than 1+1+20 (although I would consider that pretty strong personally). Both Rudman and Moersch have talked about weaker dilutions in the 1+1+25 to 40 range. There is also an equation (from Moersch) that higher dilutions require more time under the enlarger, while stronger ones require less time. I can't remember if I read that here (when he still posted here) or on his website.

What are your dilutions/developer/paper? How many stops are you overexposing? Are you using old brown? What temp is your developer? There are a lot of variables to consider. In the beginning I was fascinated by the colours of lith but now I prefer very weak ones. Since I prefer the look of weaker dilutions for the overall picture, controlling colour is difficult since weaker dilutions and hot lith (for speed) both add colour, especially when using Foma papers. I don't add OB at all to keeps colours at bay. I also add more B than A (for example 20A + 25B + 1000 water) which also keeps colour in check.

I use Moersch Easy Lith at roughly 20 degrees with 20ml A 20ml B 20ml OB and 700ml water. Only tried Fomatone 131 so far. I don’t wanna introduce too many variables at this point. I just bought some more Fomatone and want to stick to that for Lith prints for now. I’ll try adding more B than A next time and see what I get.

mooseontheloose · Sep 8, 2018

ericdan said:
I use Moersch Easy Lith at roughly 20 degrees with 20ml A 20ml B 20ml OB and 700ml water. Only tried Fomatone 131 so far. I don’t wanna introduce too many variables at this point. I just bought some more Fomatone and want to stick to that for Lith prints for now. I’ll try adding more B than A next time and see what I get.

Hi Eric - that's often what I start with too (minus the OB). If you don't want so much colour, I would stop using the OB - the only thing it does is bring the colour up sooner. The paper will lith straight out of the bottle with no OB added.

Bob Carnie · Sep 8, 2018

All my printing sessions are long day so I mix up the 20 x24 trays as follows... fotospeed Ld20 1500ml A + 1500 plus 15 litres of water.... next day I will dump some and add one A B or 2 A B 500ml depending on how much printing I want to do in the second day.

Last weekend I mixed this up and the second day added 1 AB 500 ml - We produced 55 - 20 x24 Art 300 prints ... My development snatch time is always under 4 min, and if I want more brown colour in the print I will either flash more or change papers to get the look I want.

I have kept this setup now since 1997 and am happy with it.

I sometimes use OB but I always season the fresh chemicals with raw paper fogged to room light,

tezzasmall · Jul 1, 2021

Yes, a bit of an old thread, but is there a CURRENT list of papers and developers that are available to buy right now - ESPECIALLY in the UK?

I have been working my way through various home mixed developers but none of them give anything worth keeping and go off really quickly...

@Bob Carnie, I note that you use VERY LARGE amounts of dev in your trays. So does this stop the quick oxidization(?) of the dev - maybe my trays are too small?

I really just want to confirm that I am doing things right and the paper is ok. I am currently using Fomatone MG Classic 132 Matt. Is there a lithable RC current paper out there?

I have read through both of Tim Rudman's lith books and have now bought one of Moerch's Easy Lith kits - fingers crossed, as I am getting a bit down about all the (OLD) info out there.

Many thanks in advance everyone.

Terry S

Lachlan Young · Jul 1, 2021

It seems that the new-ish Ilford MGV RC will lith successfully in Easylith - haven't tried it yet, but potentially very good news. Easylith usually delivers good results pretty reliably with Fomatone.

Current Lith Paper Availability

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency