Crush on GX680

[Joel_L]

Hi,

So it seems I have developed a crush on the Fuji GX680 series. For those of you that have had one, is the price premium for the 680 III worth it over the II or even I? Biggest difference I see is in the battery. Are there other functional items that would make a III more desirable.

This would get added to my Toyo 45GX ( OK, not medium format ), Yashica Mat 124G, and RZ67.

I kind of like the tilt/shift of the non S version.

Joel

 

[Moose22]

Don't get the S first. The whole point of the system is movements. It takes lovely photos, the lenses are all phenomenal, but you can get close to it without the tilt and shift for half the size.

Personally, I'd stick to the III simple because you can get the CR123 batteries easily at Amazon or the local hardware store or whatever. It's also newer, these are all old machines so a few fewer years might help some. The III is also 200grams lighter, though it's the bulk more than the weight that matters. These are tripod cameras, not so much carry-around for discrete street photography cameras.

 

[itsdoable]

The III will run on currently available disposable lithium ion batteries. The I & II needs the NiCad battery pack, (which will need rebuilding), or the hard to get alkaline holder. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to jurry rig/build a battery pack for them as they take anything from 6 ~ 7.5V, so you can make a video lith-ion battery work. And the III can also use this pack.

The main disadvantage of the III is the proprietary cable release, the one for the I & II does NOT work. The cable release for the III is much rarer, and more expensive. If you are using the tilt/shift functions, which is one of the main reasons to use a GX680, then you'll want this.

 

[grat]

I have a GX680 II... at least, I think it is. The front standard looks like the I, but it has the label and flippy gates of the II.

I 3D printed a battery pack for mine, and it runs off two rechargeable 18650 Li-ion batteries. The III is lighter, and can be made to work with a digital back. The film backs are slightly nicer, as they can take masks for different formats (also 3D printable now)-- but those backs also work with the I/II model, supposedly. The older backs will probably need a new battery, but it's a pretty easy job if you know which end of a soldering iron to not grab.

I don't have either release cable-- I tend to use MLU on every shot instead.

 

[Joel_L]

Interesting, I see some battery boxes on thingiverse, so a II ( maybe make that as far back as I go just for age considerations ) may be just fine. I do like the III because you don't need that external battery hooked on. I'll have to weigh desire vs $$$ for something that will only get occasional use.

 

[gone]

Thingiverse, who knew? Thanks for the new word.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Your dreams are answered ==> https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...5-6-lens-film-back-120-220-film-inser.190904/

 

[Joel_L]

Thanks for the pointer but I want the tilt/shift version ( non S )

 

[Joel_L]

I have a GX680 III on the way, a non S version, so has tilt/shift. I expect the prices will drop drastically now.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Enjoy!!

 

[Moose22]

I have a GX680 III on the way, a non S version, so has tilt/shift. I expect the prices will drop drastically now.

Thanks, man. I'll keep an eye out in case there's anything missing from my kit now!

And I hope you enjoy it. I go through phases, but am always happy with the image quality I can get from my beasts. The tilt and shift are a little fussy and imprecise at first, but a roll or two of practice is all it takes to get used to it. I did silly stuff like trying to get a whole guitar, headstock to tail, in focus and was hooked on the possibilities from there.

 

[Sirius Glass]

One you get it, read the instructions and load film, you will be very busy and head over heels.

 

[Joel_L]

Found a manual online, good to go, look forward to giving the camera a try.

 

[grat]

Mirror Lockup is your friend. And your enemy. It doesn't unlock when you take a photo, so you need to manually drop the mirror (same switch) before the camera will be ready to take a photo again.

Be very, very careful handling negatives from this camera. They're sharp enough to cut.

 

[Moose22]

Found a manual online, good to go, look forward to giving the camera a try.

What'd you get for lenses?

 

[Joel_L]

80mm, 100mm, 150mm

 

[Joel_L]

My camera showed up today, three days from Japan to Colorado. Camera is in fabulous condition. I just put a roll through it and about to process it.

 

[Moose22]

Nice. And you got the boxes for your lenses.

I am of two minds about those boxes. They take up a lot of space in my dry box (I got quite the collection with mine), but they're REALLY well built items. Gives it a totally different feel than modern cameras where you just get a sock or the lens shipped in styrofoam and nothing to store it in.

Enjoy it. Won't take too long for you to get the workflow down -- I'm a fan if the mirror lockup, fire, mirror-down method -- and to get used to the quirks. You're going to love the image quality.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Enjoy your new camera! Shoot more film.

 

[Joel_L]

Now that I have put a few rolls through the camera I can say I really like it. I find it odd that the meter it has basically tries to tell you if you screwed up or not, does nothing while composing, wonder what the thinking was behind that. So far the meter on my phone has given me very good results. I still want to pick up a dedicated meter some time. New ones seem scarce right now. I want one that does < 1degree spot and average. If it can average multi spots even better.

I was able to modify an early shutter release to work with the III. I have not sorted out the buzzer yet, but the shutter fires.

My RZ might get lonely.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Now that I have put a few rolls through the camera I can say I really like it. I find it odd that the meter it has basically tries to tell you if you screwed up or not, does nothing while composing, wonder what the thinking was behind that. So far the meter on my phone has given me very good results. I still want to pick up a dedicated meter some time. New ones seem scarce right now. I want one that does < 1degree spot and average. If it can average multi spots even better.

I was able to modify an early shutter release to work with the III. I have not sorted out the buzzer yet, but the shutter fires.

My RZ might get lonely.

Keep your RZ well fed with rolls of film while you join the quest for the perfect light meter.

 

[Paul Howell]

I think the 680 is an excellent under the radar system, I came very close to buying one along with 2 lens, had my Visa out, then at the last second decided that it was too heavy for me to use in the field.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I think the 680 is an excellent under the radar system, I came very close to buying one along with 2 lens, had my Visa out, then at the last second decided that it was too heavy for me to use in the field.

Now take a look at the Hasselblads. Yes they have become more costly to buy into the system but that just means that one will have to wait longer between buying lenses. Hasselblads are lighter, very reliable and has a large choice of lenses, backs and other equipment to choose from. Parts and service are widely available. Take a look the worst it could do would be destroy you financially, so what do you have to loose? <<insert two winks here>>

 

[Paul Howell]

Your right, what I liked about the G680 was the bellows and limited movements and 6X8 negative, but a Hassy would have a better choice for field work. I have a Kowa 66 and Super, both getting a little long in the tooth, hard to get serviced, but like the Hassy lighter and easy to use in field. In terms of repairs and large system it is hard to beat Hassy. I guess I will go my grave with my Kowas, although my current MF for field work is the Mamiya Universal with 6X9 back. Tempe camera was sell the Fuji and it was a smoking good deal.

 

[moto-uno]

Being a fellow owner of the same Kowas , all I can say is , Lucky you . Peter