Depth of field, not field of view.Two tricks to try. The first is hyperfocal distance. Figure out how to set the hyperfocal distance, and it'll give you a much wider field of view to work with.
Second, use known frame of reference points for distance. Rather than guessing distance in feet, yards, meters, or whatever, guess distance in objects you're familiar with. Is the subject about 3 basketball goals away? Well a basketball goal is 10 feet, so that makes it 30 feet away. You can use your car, arms length, shoes, football fields, whatever object you're familiar with enough to imagine it's size. Then measure that object (if you don't already know the length), and use those objects to estimate distances.
What if the rangefinder was slightly off and I focus until the image in the rangefinder is almost dead on, would that be doing the same thing as long as the aperture was at f11-f16?
Yes, if you are using direct flash with hp5 at EI 400 or 800 you can get away with f22 for such shots at moderate distances with most old flash units. For extra fun, try flashbulbs! Grandkids will love those, but use a shield over the flash in case a bulb explodes at close distance.I think it will be used for informal portraits and candid's of my grand kids at about 10-20 feet from the camera. Will that work using the Xenotar 135mm at f11-f22 with HP5? I will also be using a flash at times.
What if the rangefinder was slightly off and I focus until the image in the rangefinder is almost dead on, would that be doing the same thing as long as the aperture was at f11-f16?
It is really easy to change the infinity stop on the rail. Focus at infinity on the ground glass, then set your infinity stop at that point. Now your rangefinder should work. I don't know if a non-standard lens will mess up this method, but it worked for me with my 127mm Ektar on my speed graphic. You can always just check with your ground glass. That stop is easy to set.What if the rangefinder was slightly off and I focus until the image in the rangefinder is almost dead on, would that be doing the same thing as long as the aperture was at f11-f16?
It is really easy to change the infinity stop on the rail. Focus at infinity on the ground glass, then set your infinity stop at that point. Now your rangefinder should work. I don't know if a non-standard lens will mess up this method, but it worked for me with my 127mm Ektar on my speed graphic. You can always just check with your ground glass. That stop is easy to set.
I think you are mistaken. There's a manual. Have you read it?
Well, with the Kalart getting the RF to agree with the GG at infinity is the first step. It then has to be adjusted to agree with the GG at intermediate and near distances. Fiddly painful job.Ummm... about which part, because that was also my experience, calibrating my Pacemaker Speed's Kalart with a tripod and loupe?
Well, with the Kalart getting the RF to agree with the GG at infinity is the first step. It then has to be adjusted to agree with the GG at intermediate and near distances. Fiddly painful job.
Go here https://1drv.ms/f/s!AggQfcczvHGN7QPLzcnfQqi0-7pf to get the Kalart adjustment manual.
I have not read the manual, but my rangefinder works now. I was just sharing my experience. It is easy to tell on the ground glass whether it works or not. It may be that my rangefinder didn't require calibrating. Who knows. But I am definitely no expert.I think you are mistaken. There's a manual. Have you read it?
Does it have a side rangefinder or a top rangefinder? If side which brand?
Oh, I understand what you mean. I just had to set the infinity tabs right and adjust the cam on my Pacemaker because the rangefinder was already set up for the Optar lens. I imagine it'd be different if I tried to go to a different focal length.Well, with the Kalart getting the RF to agree with the GG at infinity is the first step. It then has to be adjusted to agree with the GG at intermediate and near distances. Fiddly painful job.
Go here https://1drv.ms/f/s!AggQfcczvHGN7QPLzcnfQqi0-7pf to get the Kalart adjustment manual.
Wait, you bought a Xenotar with plans to shoot it at f/11-f/22? That's an awfully expensive lens is you're not planning on taking advantage of it's speed.I think it will be used for informal portraits and candid's of my grand kids at about 10-20 feet from the camera. Will that work using the Xenotar 135mm at f11-f22 with HP5? I will also be using a flash at times.
Wait, you bought a Xenotar with plans to shoot it at f/11-f/22? That's an awfully expensive lens is you're not planning on taking advantage of it's speed.
True. But I would rather have and not need the extra money. Xenotars are expensive lenses!It is better to have and not need, than need and not have?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?