Cross processing velvia 50

[Cerebum]

I have been offered some Velvia of unknown age or storage. The only developing option I have is C41. I know cross processing gives you really funky colour shifts but could these be tamed using white balance and tone controls in light room? I develop at home and scan using a DSLR. The film is a bargain, but not if the best I can manage is something akin to false colour IR

 

[brbo]

Fuji slide film, in general, doesn't play that well in C-41. It has a distinct green tint. Kodak Ektachrome is much better, imho.

If you want to get as close as possible to the real thing, but don't want to buy E-6 chemistry, I'd try a BW developer like HC-110 or D-76 in place of first developer, light reversal and C-41 chemistry for colour development, bleaching and fixing.

 

[mshchem]

Buy an E6 kit and enjoy the film

 

[Cerebum]

Fuji slide film, in general, doesn't play that well in C-41. It has a distinct green tint. Kodak Ektachrome is much better, imho.

If you want to get as close as possible to the real thing, but don't want to buy E-6 chemistry, I'd try a BW developer like HC-110 or D-76 in place of first developer, light reversal and C-41 chemistry for colour development, bleaching and fixing.

Sooooo hc110, 1:31? 20°? Then finish off as normal, bleach, fix and stab at 40°? That sounds like fun

 

[Cerebum]

Buy an E6 kit and enjoy the film

Thinking about it

 

[Cerebum]

Thinking about it

Just seen the price, not thinking about it any more lolol

 

[brbo]

Sooooo hc110, 1:31? 20°? Then finish off as normal, bleach, fix and stab at 40°? That sounds like fun

I hate myself for not taking notes, but I think 1+15, 38ºC, 6-7min would be a better start. Colours were pretty close, Dmax was lacking a bit, though. If film will not be projected but scanned, then that will not be a problem.

To repeat, HC-110 for 6-7min, expose film to light (for reversal), then C-41 developer (this will be to completion so 6min should do it), then bleach, fix, stab. 38ºC.

 

[Cerebum]

I hate myself for not taking notes, but I think 1+15, 38ºC, 6-7min would be a better start. Colours were pretty close, Dmax was lacking a bit, though. If film will not be projected but scanned, then that will not be a problem.

To repeat, HC-110 for 6-7min, expose film to light (for reversal), then C-41 developer (this will be to completion so 6min should do it), then bleach, fix, stab. 38ºC.

That sounds like fun and hugely satisfying if the results are decent

 

[Disconnekt]

The Darkroom UK develops E6 film, & they do give a small bulk discount depending on how many rolls you send in:

E6 35mm & 120 develop only No prints or Scans - Digital and film-based photographic printing & products

Professional E6 film process for slide films, 35mm, 120 and sheet formats returned in acetate filing page by 1st calss post. We have been developing film since 1992

www.the-darkroom.co.uk

 

[lamerko]

Add a stop bath between the black and white and color developer. If you don't stop the black and white developer before starting the backlight, you will get a low dmax.

 

[brbo]

Add a stop bath between the black and white and color developer. If you don't stop the black and white developer before starting the backlight, you will get a low dmax.

Yes, of course!

 

[Taylor K Nankervis]

As a strictly-by-the-book E6 user for several decades, cross-processing strikes me as a horror not worth experiencing.
Why not take the plunge and dev in E6 as the film is intended?

Cross-processing can be very unpredictable, and the unknown variables you have stated of age and storage compound that unpredictability, not made much better by ordinary, everyday care-free exposure, when a more nuanced approach to exposure is required with old film. The results may or may not be useable (e.g. printable). Velvia runs icky green when very expired and/or poorly stored, the opposite of Provia's purplish-hue (when used for long exposures).

 

[Cerebum]

Add a stop bath between the black and white and color developer. If you don't stop the black and white developer before starting the backlight, you will get a low dmax.

I just came on here to ask that I am developing a photrio psychic link

 

[perkeleellinen]

If there's lots of rolls, just shoot one and send for E6 dev - it might be ok.

APUG member John Salim has a good service:

https://www.johnsalimphotographic.co.uk/e6.html

 

[Cerebum]

Add a stop bath between the black and white and color developer. If you don't stop the black and white developer before starting the backlight, you will get a low dmax.

I just came on here to ask that I am developing a photrio

As a strictly-by-the-book E6 user for several decades, cross-processing strikes me as a horror not worth experiencing.
Why not take the plunge and dev in E6 as the film is intended?

Cross-processing can be very unpredictable, and the unknown variables you have stated of age and storage compound that unpredictability, not made much better by ordinary, everyday care-free exposure, when a more nuanced approach to exposure is required with old film. The results may or may not be useable (e.g. printable). Velvia runs icky green when very expired and/or poorly stored, the opposite of Provia's purplish-hue (when used for long exposures).

I may not get the roll yet. Its about 70ft that is at least ten years old, possibly more. If it is in good order then it may be worth paying the extra for an E6 kit, but not if it is nasty. The HC110 workaround is interesting because I have all the stuff. As for printing, I don't at the moment. I was only interested if I can get the roll for less than £20. I don't mind paying £20 for something to experiment with

 

[Cerebum]

If there's lots of rolls, just shoot one and send for E6 dev - it might be ok.

APUG member John Salim has a good service:

https://www.johnsalimphotographic.co.uk/e6.html

That's a good idea. It would certainly be a good way to find out if it is any good

 

[Taylor K Nankervis]

I just came on here to ask that I am developing a photrio


I may not get the roll yet. Its about 70ft that is at least ten years old, possibly more. If it is in good order then it may be worth paying the extra for an E6 kit, but not if it is nasty. The HC110 workaround is interesting because I have all the stuff. As for printing, I don't at the moment. I was only interested if I can get the roll for less than £20. I don't mind paying £20 for something to experiment with

Reading that, it would come across to me as a bit of a risk — 70ft and 10 years (possibly more) in age. Maybe get the roll and split it — some for E6, some for C41 and some for HC100, and let rip as a proverbial lucky dip!

 

[blee1996]

If the Velvia 50 is still good, I will treat it properly by developing in E6. If the color is already weird in proper E6, then C41 cross-processing is the way to go.

I do cross-processing sometimes, but almost exclusively for Kodak Elitechrome in C41 for funky colors and high contrast. I have not done any x-pro for Fuji slide film.

 

[Romanko]

It would be a waste to cross process Velvia 50. As others suggested, try shooting a roll and have it developed in E-6. If you don't like the results, sell the film or keep it for experiments.

 

[_T_]

If the goal is to get normal looking slides or normal looking scans after adjustments in software, then why not shoot fresh film and save the hassle and help the industry not collapse so that we can all keep shooting film in the future?

And if the goal is to get weird messed up photos then why not cross process fresh film for all of the above reasons?

And if the goal is to save some money then why not just buy some kind of cheaper fresh film like fujifilm 400 or kodak gold?

And if the goal is just to experiment and have fun, there's a million ways to do that with photography that don't hasten the end of film production.