Cross process Kodachrome as B&W

[sillyconguru]

I have searched the forum but I didn't really find what I was looking for :-(


I want to try developing Kodachrome in B&W chemicals and printing onto colour paper (it'll look similar to a cyanotype?), just for the craic really. However, I haven't exactly found step by step instructions on how to do this. I quite regularly process B&W film so this is no problem, but I haven't been able to find information on the exact process.

I've read that the anti-halation layer needs to be removed (pre-soak?) and that a residual coating needs to be removed after processing. Is this correct? Doesn't the residual coating give an unusual texture to the print if it's left on? I would probably use ID-11 but would use another developer if it is better suited (although, image quality isn't too important).

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Photo Engineer]

No residual coating must be removed from the film after processing.

The anti-halation layer is removed by wiping the back of the film with a sponge soaked in sodium carbonate solution. Then rinse the back with a damp sponge.

Just process as B&W and you will get a yellow B&W negative.

PE

 

[sillyconguru]

Thanks. Have you got any advice about development times, or is it good enough to process as Plus-X rated at 64 ISO?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Sorry, I have no idea what development time to use. I've never tried it.

Someone else may have that information. You might try a small piece of the leader and see how long it takes to develop to dmax. That would give you an estimate.

PE

 

[sillyconguru]

You might try a small piece of the leader and see how long it takes to develop to dmax. That would give you an estimate.

PE

That's a good idea, thanks.

 

[IloveTLRs]

Hi, sorry to bump this thread, but my question is related.

I believe I have maybe 10 rolls of Kodachrome 64 in storage, but I won't be able to get to them until around February or March 2011. Am I to understand that Kodachrome can be developed in regular D-76? What kind of results would I get from just standard processing?

 

[Removed Account2]

Caffenol to the rescue!

Search out the caffenol blog at Blogspot.com, and read all of it.

Kodachrome comes out kinda weak and grainy, but there definitely is a B&W negative.

I have a partially exposed roll sitting here, from an old camera bought on Ebay, but I really look forward to allk the durn cheap KC thats gonna be dumped on the market in about a months time!

AH, times and stuff:

Caffenol C-M :

Water to 1000ml
Washing soda (Na2CO3) 54 gram
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C POWDER) 16 gram
Instant coffee (brazero or pure black) 40 gram

Mix in the order given and let bubbles stop between Vit C and coffe, let stand for 15 minutes.

Develop at 15 minutes at 20 centigrade.

But read the blog, there is a better explanation!

http://caffenol.blogspot.com/

 

[IloveTLRs]

Really? 15 minutes in Caffenol and that's it?

Thank you

 

[removed account4]

i have crossed processed other chrome films, but not kodachrome ..
and i also used a strong brew of caffenol. it was about 3x the strength of
the conventional caffenol recipe ( around 8 tbs robusta-heavy /cheap instant coffee, around2 tbs washing soda, and around2tbs powdered vit c )
i don't have any convention about how i mix them, usually it is coffee first, then washing soda then vit c ...
i also add some print developer, i use ansco 130
( it has glycin, potas bromide, carbonate, metol+hq as well )
it is like dektol kinda-sorta but with glycin if you have dektol or a similar developer whatever else you have might work as well
... i add it in around 1:10 - 1:12ish
it doesn't sit for long, just as long as it takes to pre-wet my film.
the film is stand developed for about 25mins
i water bath/pre wet tap bubbles off the film, first then after 2 mins
add the instant coffee mixture.
i tap the bubbles out and that is the only agitation i do.
water bath, then fix ...

i say " around " for my measurements because i eyeball measure my ingredients

i've never shot kodachrome or cross-processed anything but straight e6 / c41 ..
so i don't know if it will develop the same way ... but a strong brew and stand develop always works for me ...

please be advised the uploads are part of a hybrid thing ..
... i removed the hue that plagues cross processed slide film.

YMMV


good luck !
john

 

[IloveTLRs]

I have dug up 8 rolls of Kodachrome 64. They've been in the freezer since I bought them 3 years ago.

I'd like to shoot it as B&W, what ISO would folks here recommend? 64? 50?

 

[Fredrick Van Atta]

Thanks. Have you got any advice about development times, or is it good enough to process as Plus-X rated at 64 ISO?

I spent about an hour on the phone one day with the lead tech from Rocky Mountain Film Lab, I had an old roll of Tower film that was possibly repackaged Kodachrome film stock from Sears and Roebuck. He asked what kind of developer I used and I told him "stock D-76" he advised me that, "attempting to process Kodachrome at any degree warmer than 75 degrees farenheit will melt the emulsion from the surface of the film and that 3.5 minutes would be just enough time to knock the silver off the film and leave a very dense negative behind. I asked him about c-41 cross processing and he told me again that 75 degrees, no plus or minus was both optimal and neccessary, and that 13.5 minutes with 10 second agitations at each 1 minute interval, and then blix as normal... he warned me about possible remjet contamination of my developing fluid and also latent carbon debris in my developing cannisters... I was advised to remove the remjet post development with a past of baking soda and water ( I have also seen recommended online an agitation of borax water slurry being used... dunno haven't tried it.)

I will be developing two rolls of kodachrome 64 in cold c-41 chemistry this weekend, I have experimented already with Kodacolor X without fault, and I will post digitally scanned images if people would be interested in seeing them. otherwise you should check my instagram @fredrickvanatta sometime early this coming week.

 

[Photo Engineer]

C41 processing of Kodahcrome will not work. It removes all of the silver and leaves no dye behind.

PE

 

[Prof_Pixel]

I will be developing two rolls of kodachrome 64 in cold c-41 chemistry this weekend, I have experimented already with Kodacolor X without fault.

What works for KODACOLOR film will NOT work for KODACHROME. Kodacolor has incorporated color couplers, Kodachrome doesn't.

 

[LAG]

Excuse me

I have developed [135] Kodachrome PK 25, 64 and 200 (M, R & L), in B&W and with B&W Direct Positive, all of them successfully.

I've read that the anti-halation layer needs to be removed (pre-soak?) and that a residual coating needs to be removed after processing. Is this correct? Doesn't the residual coating give an unusual texture to the print if it's left on? I would probably use ID-11 but would use another developer if it is better suited (although, image quality isn't too important).

All the wash you can do will come in handy, at the beginning and in subsequents drain baths, which are well worth seeing (specially when pre-washing). Avoid acid SB if possible.

Have you got any advice about development times, or is it good enough to process as Plus-X rated at 64 ISO?

I suppose you are dealing with PKR 64. The ones I crossed in B&W, I used Ektar 25 / Ektachrome 64 & 200 (FD times) as a reference to process. Direct Positive is another story. Anyway, about development times, to each his own.

Am I to understand that Kodachrome can be developed in regular D-76? What kind of results would I get from just standard processing?

Yes

​

I have dug up 8 rolls of Kodachrome 64. They've been in the freezer since I bought them 3 years ago.

I'd like to shoot it as B&W, what ISO would folks here recommend? 64? 50?

Box speed

 

[OptiKen]

I have also developed Kodachrome 64 in Rodinal 1+40 for 20 minutes with success

 

[Fredrick Van Atta]

What works for KODACOLOR film will NOT work for KODACHROME. Kodacolor has incorporated color couplers, Kodachrome doesn't.

You were totally correct. I only tried one after what you said, lol, epic fail!

I have however continued with my cold chemistry and processed 8 rolls of film. 2 E200 (expired xpro), 2 Kodak Gold 200 (expired), 2 Kodak Pro Image 100 (fresh), 1 Solaris 200 (expired), 1 Kodak Gold III 200 (expired). They are up to dry and I will start scanning.