Cross-process C41 in BW chem

[PhotoBob]

Is it possible to process C41 film in black & white chemistry?
If so, what is the receipt, time, etc.
Any samples to look at?
Thank You,

 

[StoneNYC]

Look at my created posts


~Stone

The Important Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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[StoneNYC]

Here

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)




~Stone

The Important Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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[StoneNYC]

And if you like the process... We can trade...

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)


~Stone

The Important Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Truzi]

I've done this only to test my "perforating" of un-perfed color film for an 126 cartridge.

The results were not great, but I was looking for frame spacing, light leaks, etc., so quality didn't matter. I've seen many posts on this forum with quite nice examples, so a good job can be done, and others here can give better information.

However, it was difficult for me to find instructions specific for D-76 (the site search can be a bit hit-or-miss). I've a litre of unused D-76 that is about 6 months old, and I'd rather use it for testing than toss it. I suspect there are better developers for this.

Here is what I did:
- About 5 minutes presoak/wash with warm tap water, several water changes (didn't measure the temp as I wasn't going for good images).
- 14 minutes of stock strength D-76, 5 inversions every 60 seconds. (The best idea I could find for D-76 was 14 minutes. A previous roll done for 19 minutes seemed a bit too long.)
- Washed with lukewarm tap water (3 changes of water).
- About 3 minutes in a stop bath.
- Washed with lukewarm tap water (3 changes of water).
- 15 minutes fix (clip test cleared B&W in 5 min, and the fixer is old).

I was very careful with the developer and fixer times. The other times were not important considering what I was trying to accomplish, so I did not pay too much attention.

Remember, this was a quick and dirty test for me, image quality was not a concern. The film will be darker than B&W film, or color processed C-41, but you should get something useable.


A friend at work has the negatives to scan for me, or I'd post a picture. You can find a lot of examples here on APUG.
The negatives showed what I was testing was fine, and it does look like I'll have some good, but boring, images.

 

[StoneNYC]

I've done this only to test my "perforating" of un-perfed color film for an 126 cartridge.

The results were not great, but I was looking for frame spacing, light leaks, etc., so quality didn't matter. I've seen many posts on this forum with quite nice examples, so a good job can be done, and others here can give better information.

However, it was difficult for me to find instructions specific for D-76 (the site search can be a bit hit-or-miss). I've a litre of unused D-76 that is about 6 months old, and I'd rather use it for testing than toss it. I suspect there are better developers for this.

Here is what I did:
- About 5 minutes presoak/wash with warm tap water, several water changes (didn't measure the temp as I wasn't going for good images).
- 14 minutes of stock strength D-76, 5 inversions every 60 seconds. (The best idea I could find for D-76 was 14 minutes. A previous roll done for 19 minutes seemed a bit too long.)
- Washed with lukewarm tap water (3 changes of water).
- About 3 minutes in a stop bath.
- Washed with lukewarm tap water (3 changes of water).
- 15 minutes fix (clip test cleared B&W in 5 min, and the fixer is old).

I was very careful with the developer and fixer times. The other times were not important considering what I was trying to accomplish, so I did not pay too much attention.

Remember, this was a quick and dirty test for me, image quality was not a concern. The film will be darker than B&W film, or color processed C-41, but you should get something useable.


A friend at work has the negatives to scan for me, or I'd post a picture. You can find a lot of examples here on APUG.
The negatives showed what I was testing was fine, and it does look like I'll have some good, but boring, images.

It's really helpful to the OP if he can see picture examples to determine what process to try out, which is why I included results in my thread

I hope the OP checks them out.


~Stone

The Important Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk