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Crawley's FX-37 Developer for T-Max/Delta Films

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Gerald Koch

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Gerald Koch submitted a new resource:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - Crawley's FX-37 Developer for T-Max/Delta Films


(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 
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Comments from previous article system:

By Rlibersky - 11:39 AM, 07-20-2006 Edit Rating: None
I have used this formula with Plus-x @100ASA, Bergger @100ASA and Ilford 3200 @1600 with excellent results. Especially with the Ilford 3200. The finest grain I've seen.
By aligndont - 07:20 PM, 09-02-2006 Edit Rating: None
I've notice that if you use this developer at 24c and alter developing times as per time/temp converter in massive developing page then you have an exceedingly sharp fine grain developer.
By craigclu - 05:41 AM, 09-04-2006 Edit Rating: None
I've finally been getting at some testing for a speed enhancing (or at least attaining rated ISO's) developer. I tested a few things in this today and was pleasantly surprised at the fine grain, too. I got slightly over-developed results with the above times/temps and likely will try moving to 1:5 and see what the grain looks like and get more controllable times. Is anyone else using this and can share some results?
By Rob Archer - 06:03 PM, 09-13-2006 Edit Rating: None
How important is it to use distilled water - if so why? (i'm not a chemist!)

Rob
By Gerald Koch - 06:15 PM, 09-13-2006 Edit Rating: None
The formula, as published, does not contain any calcium chelating agent. Attempting to add one may throw the pH of the solution off. I recommend using distilled water for all stock solutions of any developer and in this case also for the working solution.

The calcium hardness in tap water can precipitate out onto the film surface as a whitish scum. Using distilled water prevents this.
By pauldc - 07:30 PM, 09-13-2006 Edit Rating: None
How do you convert the suggested times from 1:3 to 1:5? I have just made some FX-37 up and am ready to give it a go with Pan F. Also, are there advantages to grain size in going to the 1:5 dilution? And I am assuming that 1:5 means 1 part developer to 5 parts water. Cheers, Paul
By Gerald Koch - 07:59 PM, 09-13-2006 Edit Rating: None
I would try 1.5 times the 1+3 times.

As with most developers of this type, the greater dilution should produce increased acutance with a slight increase in grain.

BTW, I actually listed the dilutions as 1+3 and 1+5 to avoid use of the rather ambiguous colon notation such as 1:3.
 
Geoffrey Crawley wrote (Amateur Photographer 17 Feb 07) to the effect that the sharpness of FX-37 is the result of the combination of borax and carbonate as alkalis.The carbonate beefs up the the softness given by the borax without a noticeable increase in grain.This is helped by the milder solvent effect of the reduced sulfite content.The formula could be described as a "sharpened-up" D76 with phenidone instead of metol.
 
I've used a little of this developer, and it worked fine. I don't buy the speed increase, though. If there is one over comparably dilute D76, it is negligible, as in less than 1/3 stop. At least that was the case in my system with the films I tried, TMX and TMY.
 
I have been using this stuff at 1+5, 68° F. to develop Tmax 100.. I just love it, sharp with good gradation, economical and the stock keeps very well..Evan Clarke
 
FX-37 with bromide only

Here is what Geoffrey Crawley wrote about FX-37 made up with 1g/L potassium bromide and no benzotriazole, taken from Amateur Photographer 15 Oct 2005:
"The only difference between this and the original FX-37 formula is the increase of potassium bromide from 0.5g to 1g and the consequent omission of benzotriazole,which is difficult to dissolve-a move to help the amateur.That chemical was originally included for the conditions of professional reuse as fog levels can rise.The change has no effect on image quality."
 
If I were to try FX-37, I would (what else?) put the phenidone and hydroquinone in a separate solution with glycol as solvent so that the working solution would be x*A + y*B +C*H2O. Sooner or later, I would substitute ascorbic acid for the hydroquinone and use TEA or a mixture of TEA and glycol in place of the glycol.

Was not FX-39 the aborted venture into ascorbate? Or am I thinking of some other FX?
 
I've been trying it with D3200 to good effect-15 mins 1+5 24C at 3200.Only tried a few rolls of 120 so far but looks promising.Gainer-you were thinking of FX-50 BTW.
 

With 1+5 FX37, I rate my 100 Tmax at 100 instead of 80 for other developers and I don't think it will do any more...Evan Clarke
 
From Amateur Photographer 27 August 2005,with their acknowledgements to Geoffrey Crawley for his answer:
"Below is a guide to development times(for FX-37) of some popular emulsions when rated at their nominal ISO speeds.The developer should be at 20C and used at 1+3 dilution.Agitation should comprise four tank inversions per minute:
(Extract):
APX 100 5 mins, Acros 100 7mins, Pan F+ 4 mins, FP4+ 4.5 mins, Delta 100 7.5 mins, 400 Delta 8 mins, T-max 100 8 mins, T-max 400 7 mins."
 
The link above is now dead. I have a pdf download of the article and I'll try to place it in the Articles section here at APUG if I can get permission from the author.
(the article ends with "no distribution without express permission of the author).

I can't find an email address for him.
 
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No he sold the IPR of one and published the formula of the other so buy one or mix other.

But the difference between either and Microphen or ID68 is going to need a step wedge...

Microphen will work in your faucet water and ID-68 is ok in mine, mine is uber hard.
 

Will it keep like Rodinal? (Not 20 years but maybe 2 once opened?) The FX-39 version?
 
StoneNYC said:
Will it keep like Rodinal? (Not 20 years but maybe 2 once opened?) The FX-39 version?
Click to expand...

No, its keeping ability is closer to that of D-76. Rodinal and HC-110 are really the exceptions as far as longevity is concerned.
 
Gerald C Koch said:
No, its keeping ability is closer to that of D-76. Rodinal and HC-110 are really the exceptions as far as longevity is concerned.
Click to expand...

D-76 is a powder, and I thought it only lasts a week once mixed? The whole bottle of FX-39 can't expire that quick after opening?
 
StoneNYC said:
D-76 is a powder, and I thought it only lasts a week once mixed? The whole bottle of FX-39 can't expire that quick after opening?
Click to expand...

Kodak's conservative value for D-76 when mixed is 6 months. People on APUG also mention greater values near 9 months, when keep in full glass bottles.
 
StoneNYC said:
D-76 is a powder, and I thought it only lasts a week once mixed? The whole bottle of FX-39 can't expire that quick after opening?
Click to expand...

The Kodak powder as stock is good for 6 mouths in one of your glass bottles or longer, Microphen the Ilford PQ ditto, Ive kept mine in plastic concertinas for 3m. The FX might drift more.

Rodinal is good as dregs for 25 years personal experience.
 
Memories are made of this

Xmas said:
The Kodak powder as stock is good for 6 mouths in one of your glass bottles or longer, Microphen the Ilford PQ ditto, Ive kept mine in plastic concertinas for 3m. The FX might drift more.

Rodinal is good as dregs for 25 years personal experience.
Click to expand...

That's been my experience too.
 
Hello there,

How is this formula supposed to be used? The values given are for a working solution? Or is it supposed be a stock solution which is diluted to 1+3 or 1+5 before processing as a one shot developer?
 
Alain Deloc said:
Hello there,

How is this formula supposed to be used? The values given are for a working solution? Or is it supposed be a stock solution which is diluted to 1+3 or 1+5 before processing as a one shot developer?
Click to expand...

The original post is no longer complete, but you can refer to this blog for more info: https://photographicanalysis.wordpress.com/2011/07/27/what-is-fx37/
It lists the following formula:
It also mentions that " The standard dilution is 1:3." This is in line with the times for FX37 in the Massive Dev Chart, which are mostly for 1+3: https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=&Developer=FX-37&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C&TimeUnits=D

I would consider the 1+3 solution as effectively a one-shot solution, although I suspect it'll keep for up to a few days in an entirely full, glass bottle with absolutely no air on top. If consistency is key, I wouldn't take any bets on it, though.
 

So the formula given is for a a stock solution that has to be diluted 1+3, in this case?
 
Alain Deloc said:
So the formula given is for a a stock solution that has to be diluted 1+3, in this case?
Click to expand...

Yes.

Of course, how you choose to use it, is up to you. I've used it straight (1+0) and currently I even mix it at double strength (multiply all ingredients by 2 except the water) and use it for high contrast with short development times on sheet film intended for contact printing.
 

Ok, thanks for clarification. I will stick then with ID68 which allows re-use. One shot is not quite economical when you develop for yourself and also you have to mix everything. It's more suitable for pre-mixed syrups like HC110
 
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