Couldn't Fight it Anymore

[NB23]

Nikon F's: The Harley Davidson of the Photo world

 

[Frankly Unsharp]

Santa shoots slides with a black Nikkormat FT3!

 

[flavio81]

F2 and F3: not better or worse, just different.

Yes, i should rectify myself. For auto (aperture priority) shooting the F3 is perfect; more nimble and easier on the hand than the F2, great mechanics, easy interchange of viewfinders and screen, better meter (than even the F2AS).

But for manual shooting the tiny "+/-" display is horrible. That said, i just sold my F2AS yesterday so perhaps I should try myself another F3...

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Nikon F's: The Harley Davidson of the Photo world

You may be right. Also, the appeal of both can be viewed in many ways.

But for manual shooting the tiny "+/-" display is horrible.

The FM3a viewfinder display is nice: direct view of the aperture at the top, shutter speed scale on the left with a blue needle showing your selected speed and a black needle showing the meter-chosen speed.

My vote for best Nikon ever is the F4s.

 

[frank]

You may be right. Also, the appeal of both can be viewed in many ways.

The FM3a viewfinder display is nice: direct view of the aperture at the top, shutter speed scale on the left with a blue needle showing your selected speed and a black needle showing the meter-chosen speed.

My vote for best Nikon ever is the F4s.

Seconded.

 

[ColColt]

The only aspect of the F2AS I've found I haven't liked is the sensitivity of the meter. The display has the +0- and while 0 is the goal, the slightest turn of the aperture ring will yield a +0 or -0 or just a -. Trying to get it centered is quite difficult many times.

I had an FM back in the late 70's that used the GPD as opposed to the SPD but the same type of LED's; but, I don't recall it being that difficult in that manner as the F2AS.

 

[frank]

The only aspect of the F2AS I've found I haven't liked is the sensitivity of the meter. The display has the +0- and while 0 is the goal, the slightest turn of the aperture ring will yield a +0 or -0 or just a -. Trying to get it centered is quite difficult many times.

I had an FM back in the late 70's that used the GPD as opposed to the SPD but the same type of LED's; but, I don't recall it being that difficult in that manner as the F2AS.

There's no such thing as "one correct" exposure setting anyway. Don't sweat the small stuff. If you are going to "err", err towards overexposure with negative film.

 

[naaldvoerder]

You're making it harder to keep ignoring the original Contax RTS I have my eye on.

Showing this extraordinary level of restraint, I really think you deserve a RTS II...

 

[flavio81]

The only aspect of the F2AS I've found I haven't liked is the sensitivity of the meter. The display has the +0- and while 0 is the goal, the slightest turn of the aperture ring will yield a +0 or -0 or just a -. Trying to get it centered is quite difficult many times.

I had an FM back in the late 70's that used the GPD as opposed to the SPD but the same type of LED's; but, I don't recall it being that difficult in that manner as the F2AS.

Just bought back a Nikon F2A, the one with the analog needle and CdS meter. The analog needle I am liking more than the LED +/0/- readout, perhaps because it's not so distracting.

 

[ColColt]

I have the F2A as well and must agree. Sover put some new CdS cells in it so it's good to go for another decade or more...it'll outlive me.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

David,

It almost sounds like the meter readout is twitchy, meaning that the ring resistor is failing. My F2AS is very easy to center on the "o" with. Very linear. Granted, it does have Sover's lifetime warranty Super Ring Resistor installed. I've dealt with some F2AS/SB finders, as well as FM2n bodies where the readout is all over the place.

-J

 

[ColColt]

It jumps around trying to center it for sure. I had an FTN Photomic that the needle jumped around so you never could get it close to center. No doubt in that case it was a dirty/worn resistor ring. With the F2AS I'm not sure as I've never had one till now but hope it's not the resistor ring...it's accurate, just jumpy.

 

[ColColt]

Did a little testing tonight indoors with the F2AS and found it easier to see the display and the meter didn't jump around like it did in the sunlight the other day. When I was out shooting it was difficult to see the meter in bright light. Maybe the brim of my hat was partly at fault, I'm not sure.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Possibly. Might be a good idea to pick up an eyecup, and, if necessary, the proper diopter lens, if you're shooting with glasses. That will help make the meter readout easier to see, getting your eyeball closer to the eyepiece. Another option is to flip the eyepiece blind closed and wait for the LED on the top to turn on. When it does, flip the blind open, compose, and shoot.

-J

 

[ColColt]

I do shoot with glasses but have the eyecup on another camera that could be moved. I'm not sure what flipping the eyepiece blind closed would do, however...my first camera with that addition.

 

[Arvee]

Colt, like the tiny switch on the Autometer III, that Nikon, in its pristine condition, has not seen a lot of use. When you have a moment, work the shutter speed knob from stop to stop about a dozen times. Then lift the ISO knob and rotate it through its range about a dozen times. I'll bet the wiper on the resistor ring has some oxidation on it and if you exercise it, it will become smoother over time. It's quite common for electronic devices that haven't been used for some time to have scratchy/twitchy pots due to oxidation.

 

[ColColt]

Good advice, I'll do that. I use to do that with my FTN Photomics but age made me forget that.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

I do shoot with glasses but have the eyecup on another camera that could be moved. I'm not sure what flipping the eyepiece blind closed would do, however...my first camera with that addition.

It turns on the red LED on top of the finder when the meter shows correct exposure. If you take a look at the video that Sover posted on his site of an F2AS with the DS-12 doing shutter priority automatic metering, you'll see the LED turn on when the camera has chosen the correct aperture for the set shutter speed.

-J

 

[ColColt]

Thanks for that tip. It works great. I discovered the loss of the meter's lights primarily occurs when I'm standing in cross light either the right or left-not so much other ways.