Just curious but why are you using film when you are going to digitise them, wouldn’t it be a lot simpler to just start with a high end digital camera?
I will only be outputting in .TIFFAnvil, the mpixel numbers you cited: are those for jpeg? TIFF files? What output do you want from the scanner?
Just curious but why are you using film when you are going to digitise them, wouldn’t it be a lot simpler to just start with a high end digital camera?
I will only be outputting in .TIFF
I didn't know the file type mattered when it came to mpixels...
I don’t either, I expose many rolls and sheets every year and then print them in my darkroom. Digital is not a part of my process, I’ve just never understand exposing film only to digitise it.I don't ever want analog film photography to die- I love it. Everything about it.
I'm curious Adrian if there's a difference between tiff and jpeg when scanning film vs. digital capture?it doesn’t. Total Megapixels is a function of the image pixel dimensions, height multiplied by width.
that being said, within that, different formats will store varying amounts of color resolution per pixel, so a jpeg has what’s referred to as 4:2:2 color, which is not even RGB but YCbCr color sampling. It consists of a full resolution black and white image (the Y part) and a quarter resolution for each of the CbCr color components. For TIFF files, it’s typically RGB color sampling and full color resolution for each color.
the key takeaway is that depending on your chosen format, you may or may not have full RGB color precision at each pixel in the image. This might not matter so much depending on what you’re doing with it, but it’s worth noting.
Just curious but why are you using film when you are going to digitise them, wouldn’t it be a lot simpler to just start with a high end digital camera?
I'm curious Adrian if there's a difference between tiff and jpeg when scanning film vs. digital capture?
I just received a V850 needed to scan my new 4x5 film. So I should be getting better scans over my V600 with medium format that I shoot as well. WIth the V600 I would scan 2400 bit 16 bit color (negative and positive color film) or 16 bit BW and save as tiff. I might use PS Elements which converts to 8 bits for posting on the web. Sometimes I use Lightroom 6. I have a NEC calibratable monitor with SPectraview II puck. WHile I can see different color spaces, I keep it a sRGB when editing because the end result goes on the web anyway. I'm not printing right now. If I do, it will be rarely and I intend to drum scan and print professionally the few prints I would do. All my processing is done in a pro lab as I have no darkroom. I also display slideshows on my 75" UHDTV. I intend to make some table top photo books. For that, I'll use my own scans. (sRGB??)Depending on what you're scanning, yes. For slides, probably not if you get the white balance and scanner exposure correct. jpegs are 8 bits, Tiffs can be pretty much any bit depth, within reason. If you scanned at 16 bits and saved as a jpeg, you wouldn't be able to tell a difference in final quality, but scanning at 8 bits, absolutely. Jpegs are best with sRGB, any scan you do will have to convert from the scanner raw to sRGB (and you convert to sRGB when saving as jpeg in software), so color wise, you won't miss or see much difference unless you have a really new display that can actually display a larger color space than sRGB.
For Negative film, I'd never scan as Jpeg. Not enough bits, not enough color resolution, wrong color scheme. Jpegs are fine for converting to jpeg after you have a positive color image that you're not planning to edit/post process any more.
SO with all that, should I change any of my parameters? Change the color space? Bits? Stick with LR or is it OK to use 8 bit Elements? Other? Thanks.
First, I scan flat and adjust in post. Then I find adjusting levels in Elements is easier. In Lightroom, I never seem to know which sliders to use to get the same affect. Maybe you can help me on that? Tks.Curious why you would use Elements when you have LR. Are you just more comfortable with Elements?
I just received a V850 needed to scan my new 4x5 film. So I should be getting better scans over my V600 with medium format that I shoot as well. WIth the V600 I would scan 2400 bit 16 bit color (negative and positive color film) or 16 bit BW and save as tiff. I might use PS Elements which converts to 8 bits for posting on the web. Sometimes I use Lightroom 6. I have a NEC calibratable monitor with SPectraview II puck. WHile I can see different color spaces, I keep it a sRGB when editing because the end result goes on the web anyway. I'm not printing right now. If I do, it will be rarely and I intend to drum scan and print professionally the few prints I would do. All my processing is done in a pro lab as I have no darkroom. I also display slideshows on my 75" UHDTV. I intend to make some table top photo books. For that, I'll use my own scans. (sRGB??)
SO with all that, should I change any of my parameters? Change the color space? Bits? Stick with LR or is it OK to use 8 bit Elements? Other? Thanks.
First, I scan flat and adjust in post. Then I find adjusting levels in Elements is easier. In Lightroom, I never seem to know which sliders to use to get the same affect. Maybe you can help me on that? Tks.
Which slider correlate to the Levels slider in Elements?in the develop module you’d first adjust the overall brightness and white balance using the exposure slider and whitebalance/tint sliders. Underneath that, you’d use the contrast, blacks, whites, shadows, and highlights sliders next. Each is labeled as to what they affect. You can either use the sliders directly, or use your mouse and put it on the histogram and drag it around and it will affect the slider for that part of the histogram. If you want more specific control, the tone curve panel further down let’s you manipulate the tone curve for all the channels at once or individually for each color. The order of the controls in the develop module is the order of the operation application from top to bottom.
Adrian, How big are your 8x10 tiff files at 4800? I assume LR can handle them? Should I use 4800 or stick to 2400? People have said there's not much to gain over 2400.
As an aside, since I also shoot digital (Sony RX100iv), should I shoot in Adobe RGB or just RGB the two color spaces available?
Which slider correlate to the Levels slider in Elements?
That is one quirk of Adobe software I find annoying.Which slider correlate to the Levels slider in Elements?
As an aside, since I also shoot digital (Sony RX100iv), should I shoot in Adobe RGB or just RGB the two color spaces available?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?