Contax RTS II - Film Advance lever can't being moved

[Yashica]

Hi forum,

i've bought last month another RTS II after a hell long time, to have a spare copy. Well, it turns out, the film advance lever isn't being move-able.
And the mirror is always being stuck, means overlapping the focusing screen - so you can't see anything through the pentaprism...hence OVF.

I've tried with gloves *very subtle* to pull the mirror down, but it won't stay into it's usual way. And yes, it doesn't matter, into which position the "mirror-up" switch is - because the mirror stays always up.

Does someone know, how-to fix both issues? For testing purposes, i've put into a fresh battery, mounted my 35/2.8 distagon, and just turned the aperture ring...this is fully being recognized, the red 7 digit LEDs are showing the corresponding, correct aperture setting.

Otherwise, this RTS II does look from the film chamber, backdoor, lightseals, and outside mint, almost new. I wouldn't want to trash it. The film advance lever does feel really *hard* jammed, i can't move it a single mm.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Marc

 

[monopix]

Most likely the shutter hasn't completed its travel so the mirror hasn't been released and the wind lock is still on. It needs a repair.

 

[Yashica]

Most likely the shutter hasn't completed its travel so the mirror hasn't been released and the wind lock is still on. It needs a repair.

I know, but that doesn't bring me further. I cocked the shutter only once, when it was fully working with a fresh battery - but then became totally stuck.

 

[monopix]

The answer is it needs a repair so you need to find someone to repair it.

 

[Yashica]

The answer is it needs a repair so you need to find someone to repair it.

And this is exactly what i do know, before your post. No hard feelings.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

And this is exactly what i do know, before your post. No hard feelings.

One possibility would be to open the camera and see what is stuck where.

 

[Yashica]

One possibility would be to open the camera and see what is stuck where.

I am too shy for this. I'd let it serviced.

 

[Yosua]

I had this exact same problem with other cameras, but the solution may be the same:
Most likely the shutter hasn't completed its travel because the battery died. It happens that when the battery is too weak, the battery would only work like a small capacitor with just enough power to start the shutting but not to finish it. Try to change the battery (and press the shutter again if the camera doesn't complete the shutting by itself) . You can also try to remove the battery and recharge it for one minute by connecting it in parallel with another source of current of same or slightly above voltage (like another battery) + to + and - to -. This has always worked for me.

 

[Yashica]

I had this exact same problem with other cameras, but the solution may be the same:
Most likely the shutter hasn't completed its travel because the battery died. It happens that when the battery is too weak, the battery would only work like a small capacitor with just enough power to start the shutting but not to finish it. Try to change the battery (and press the shutter again if the camera doesn't complete the shutting by itself) . You can also try to remove the battery and recharge it for one minute by connecting it in parallel with another source of current of same or slightly above voltage (like another battery) + to + and - to -. This has always worked for me.

Thanks for the info, appreciated. Well, the battery worked fine, but died off lately, right. I've to organize a new one.

 

[Yosua]

Thanks for the info, appreciated. Well, the battery worked fine, but died off lately, right. I've to organize a new one.

Glad that it also worked for you!

 

[Yashica]

Glad that it also worked for you!

I haven't check that ! I just meant, before the lever got stock, the battery died. So you might be right - and i have to get a new battery,
before i can verify this. Must have been a missunderstanding, no hard feelings.

 

[Yosua]

I haven't check that ! I just meant, before the lever got stock, the battery died. So you might be right - and i have to get a new battery,
before i can verify this. Must have been a missunderstanding, no hard feelings.

If the battery died before the lever got stock, then that’s it. The battery died, you press the shutter which causes the mirror to go up, then there is no electricity available for activating the electro-magnet that releases the shutter curtains. The shutting process is not terminated so the mirror is kept up, because it cannot be released before the end of the exposure otherwise it would obstruct, being in the path of the image formation system. Also the lever is blocked because it has already advanced the film enough to the next frame that has not yet been shut. Pushing the small end of film release bouton on the bottom of the camera may release the camera, allowing the film to be rewind, but don’t force anything or something can be broken!

 

[mshchem]

The Polaroid SX-70 does this. If you leave an old empty film pack (which contains the Polapulse battery) in the camera and you press the shutter release, the mirror flops up, only way to get back to normal is to install a new film pack with a fresh battery.
I'll bet a nice fresh quality battery will help you out.

 

[Chet Baker]

Hi forum,

i've bought last month another RTS II after a hell long time, to have a spare copy. Well, it turns out, the film advance lever isn't being move-able.
And the mirror is always being stuck, means overlapping the focusing screen - so you can't see anything through the pentaprism...hence OVF.

I've tried with gloves *very subtle* to pull the mirror down, but it won't stay into it's usual way. And yes, it doesn't matter, into which position the "mirror-up" switch is - because the mirror stays always up.

Does someone know, how-to fix both issues? For testing purposes, i've put into a fresh battery, mounted my 35/2.8 distagon, and just turned the aperture ring...this is fully being recognized, the red 7 digit LEDs are showing the corresponding, correct aperture setting.

Otherwise, this RTS II does look from the film chamber, backdoor, lightseals, and outside mint, almost new. I wouldn't want to trash it. The film advance lever does feel really *hard* jammed, i can't move it a single mm.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Marc

I also think of what was suggested to you about the battery which may have drained out and blocked the camera.
Whatever the problem, I advise you to never touch the mirror and above all NEVER force it to move, you could deform its mechanism.

 

[Yashica]

I also think of what was suggested to you about the battery which may have drained out and blocked the camera.
Whatever the problem, I advise you to never touch the mirror and above all NEVER force it to move, you could deform its mechanism.

Same issue as before - with a fresh battery, my RTS II does always flashes 1/60s red, but showing the correct aperture, and the mirror is always up - doesn't come down again. I've had enough. Using my other RTS II.

 

[Chet Baker]

Same issue as before - with a fresh battery, my RTS II does always flashes 1/60s red, but showing the correct aperture, and the mirror is always up - doesn't come down again. I've had enough. Using my other RTS II.

It's a real shame because the RTSII is a great camera, for my taste perhaps the most beautiful 35mm and with a fantastic shutter release. I've owned two without the slightest problem.
Sorry for your troubles.

 

[Yashica]

It's a real shame because the RTSII is a great camera, for my taste perhaps the most beautiful 35mm and with a fantastic shutter release. I've owned two without the slightest problem.
Sorry for your troubles.

Yes, and what is worse - both look 95-97% like new, not a single scratch, dings or dent, or brassing, or edges with color off. It's a shame. But life's too short - i don't have time for this, and don't want to invest some 200 bucks to fix it. I've collected enough gear over decades, to use. Nikon, Contax, Yashica & Minolta, etc...i could shoot my Distagon with my 137 series, or S2b, for example.

 

[OAPOli]

Regarding the 1/60s behaviour, I seem to remember that the RTS II will display and fire at 1/60s until the counter reaches 1.

 

[Chet Baker]

Regarding the 1/60s behaviour, I seem to remember that the RTS II will display and fire at 1/60s until the counter reaches 1.

Yes, you are right, this is the normal behaviour of the camera.

 

[Chet Baker]

Yes, and what is worse - both look 95-97% like new, not a single scratch, dings or dent, or brassing, or edges with color off. It's a shame. But life's too short - i don't have time for this, and don't want to invest some 200 bucks to fix it. I've collected enough gear over decades, to use. Nikon, Contax, Yashica & Minolta, etc...i could shoot my Distagon with my 137 series, or S2b, for example.

As a last attempt, have you tried shooting with the mechanical shutter to see if it unlocks?

 

[monopix]

And this is exactly what i do know, before your post. No hard feelings.

So why are you asking the question. You won't/can't fix it yourself. The ONLY answer you need is that you need to get it repaired.

 

[monopix]

If the battery died before the lever got stock, then that’s it. The battery died, you press the shutter which causes the mirror to go up, then there is no electricity available for activating the electro-magnet that releases the shutter curtains. The shutting process is not terminated so the mirror is kept up, because it cannot be released before the end of the exposure otherwise it would obstruct, being in the path of the image formation system. Also the lever is blocked because it has already advanced the film enough to the next frame that has not yet been shut. Pushing the small end of film release bouton on the bottom of the camera may release the camera, allowing the film to be rewind, but don’t force anything or something can be broken!

The RTSii has an electronic release. If the battery was dead, it wouldn't release at all. The electronic release releases the mirror, the shutter is released mechanically after the mirror has raised.

 

[Yashica]

So why are you asking the question. You won't/can't fix it yourself. The ONLY answer you need is that you need to get it repaired.

No offense, you always seem to play hardball here, nevermind. FYI, i've known that i NEED to repair it, before asking here-by question(s).
It always seems, some freak-o-holics are hereby, and don't take anyting seriously. Nevermind.

godspeed.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

No offense, you always seem to play hardball here, nevermind. FYI, i've known that i NEED to repair it, before asking here-by question(s).
It always seems, some freak-o-holics are hereby, and don't take anyting seriously. Nevermind.

godspeed.

Thank you for describing the problem here and asking questions. That's what the forum is for, that's what we're here for

 

[Yosua]

The RTSii has an electronic release. If the battery was dead, it wouldn't release at all. The electronic release releases the mirror, the shutter is released mechanically after the mirror has raised.

I must have been more clear: When I said "If the battery died before", the meaning was that with a dead battery there is only just enough charge left for actioning the mirror but then no more for releasing the shutter. I have seen this exact problem with many cameras, including Nikon and Yashica.