Considering moving from a Mamiya to Hasselblad setup. Some thoughts and looking for feedback.

[sterioma]

Does it show histograms or other exposure settings? Is there one that does with the framing of this app?

Not the free version that I have.

What you get is a black and white (or color) live viewfinder and a simulated perspective of your focal lens, based on a few film formats (certainly 35mm and 6x6 that I use, there may be others).

 

[sterioma]

But when I looked closely at it, I discovered it could not properly use the full angle of view of my phone camera, so it was unable to correctly simulate a moderately wide angle lens. .

That is actually true. I only recently acquired a wide lens for my Hasselblad camera (I only had a 80 and 150), so this started to be an issue for me too. However, what I use most is the black and white view and the lens preview is of secondary importance to me. I fully understand how your mileage may vary on this and it's interesting to read what's actually behind it.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Not the free version that I have.

What you get is a black and white (or color) live viewfinder and a simulated perspective of your focal lens, based on a few film formats (certainly 35mm and 6x6 that I use, there may be others).

The advantage of using a little digital, is you get the angle view from the zoom to select the lens, histogram, BW view, and exposure settings including spot metering as well as center and matrix metering. (I calculated that my micro 43 digital gives me 1 1/2 degrees spot if I zoom in) Some digital cameras have yellow, orange and red filter simulations to see how adding BW contrast filter might look when shooting BW film. Of course like a cellphone, you can record the shot and record the exposure settings using the video mode which also records the scene for future reference.

 

[sterioma]

The advantage of using a little digital, is you get the angle view from the zoom to select the lens, histogram, BW view, and exposure settings including spot metering as well as center and matrix metering. (I calculated that my micro 43 digital gives me 1 1/2 degrees spot if I zoom in) Some digital cameras have yellow, orange and red filter simulations to see how adding BW contrast filter might look when shooting BW film. Of course like a cellphone, you can record the shot and record the exposure settings using the video mode which also records the scene for future reference.

I could see how that would work too and great that you have found your own system!

I tend to have separate tools for note taking("Exif Tools" app), metering and previewing ("Magic Fim Viewfinder" app).

I don't atually always take notes (my bad!), but many times preview when I have trouble visualizing different values (and so many times I am surprised from what I see in the viewfinder!), although almost never with 35mml; I virtually always meter (spot if I am using my Hasselblad, or just use the camera meter for 35mm).

 

[villagephotog]

I'm afraid we're derailing this thread, but just 2 more cents on the viewfinder app thing:

That is actually true.

Yes, for me it's a significant drawback to an otherwise really nice app. But for many people, it won't matter, and, as I said, I'm a fan of this developer's efforts. His iOS versions of the apps don't have this drawback, and they're quite reasonably priced.

The advantage of using a little digital, is you get the angle view from the zoom to select the lens, histogram, BW view, and exposure settings including spot metering as well as center and matrix metering.

I have considered using a digital camera of some kind, as you do, Alan. However, the good viewfinder apps include a lot of convenience features that appeal to me. They can show the actual aspect ratio of film formats (6x7, for example, which I shoot all the time). The good ones allow you to limit your focal length choices to just the lenses you actually use. So when using the app with my 6x7 camera, I only have 3 choices to cycle through, matching my 65mm, 100mm, and 150mm lenses. When I switch the app to 6x6, it switches to the focal lengths I have for that format (55mm, 80mm, and 135mm) and no others are shown, so I don't have to zoom or cycle through focal lengths that aren't relevant to my 6x6 system. Many apps also give you the ability to do film simulations and add the effect of contrast filters to a b&w simulation (or even custom LUTs that you create yourself, in some cases). Of course, these are not completely accurate, but they can help me a little in some cases.

Also, folks use these apps for location scouting all the time. You can shoot a reference photo using the full simulation, and the phone, of course, can give it a GPS stamp, so you can return later (maybe when the light is better, or you have a more appropriate camera or film) to that exact spot.

Plus, I'm using the phone for other photographic things, too, so it's in my hand a lot anyway (quite apart from using it as a communication device). I have a film reciprocity calculator in the phone, a light meter (don't use it much), and a GPS navigation app for hikers, which I use to hike to locations I want to shoot. And the phone slides easily into a chest pocket in my hiking jacket, where it has essentially no bulk or weight, and I can take it out and check a composition in 15 seconds without taking my backpack off, or digging into a bag.

I should also say that my Google Pixel 4 is a really good camera in and of itself. I sometimes use it to take real pictures, even when I've got my 6x7 system with me. This is why it's such a bummer to me that there are no viewfinder apps for Android that really work well for me. I have to carry an iPhone when I'm out photographing, even though I don't use it for anything else.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I could see how that would work too and great that you have found your own system!

I tend to have separate tools for note taking("Exif Tools" app), metering and previewing ("Magic Fim Viewfinder" app).

I don't atually always take notes (my bad!), but many times preview when I have trouble visualizing different values (and so many times I am surprised from what I see in the viewfinder!), although almost never with 35mml; I virtually always meter (spot if I am using my Hasselblad, or just use the camera meter for 35mm).

The thing that's neat about using the video, is that you can record your thoughts about the scene in a conversational manner like "The sun is coming over from the left low and the cow on the right just moved into the shot. I offset the stops by plus one stop for the yellow filter using the fifty millimeters f twenty-two at one-eighth. Made a second shot with the ektachrome at same settings. This shot is Tmax one-hundred" All the while you're recording the scene for reference. When I get home I keep all stills and videos in the same folder I scanned in the film. Probably overkill. But I'm just learning LF photography.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I'm afraid we're derailing this thread, but just 2 more cents on the viewfinder app thing:



Yes, for me it's a significant drawback to an otherwise really nice app. But for many people, it won't matter, and, as I said, I'm a fan of this developer's efforts. His iOS versions of the apps don't have this drawback, and they're quite reasonably priced.



I have considered using a digital camera of some kind, as you do, Alan. However, the good viewfinder apps include a lot of convenience features that appeal to me. They can show the actual aspect ratio of film formats (6x7, for example, which I shoot all the time). The good ones allow you to limit your focal length choices to just the lenses you actually use. So when using the app with my 6x7 camera, I only have 3 choices to cycle through, matching my 65mm, 100mm, and 150mm lenses. When I switch the app to 6x6, it switches to the focal lengths I have for that format (55mm, 80mm, and 135mm) and no others are shown, so I don't have to zoom or cycle through focal lengths that aren't relevant to my 6x6 system. Many apps also give you the ability to do film simulations and add the effect of contrast filters to a b&w simulation (or even custom LUTs that you create yourself, in some cases). Of course, these are not completely accurate, but they can help me a little in some cases.

Also, folks use these apps for location scouting all the time. You can shoot a reference photo using the full simulation, and the phone, of course, can give it a GPS stamp, so you can return later (maybe when the light is better, or you have a more appropriate camera or film) to that exact spot.

Plus, I'm using the phone for other photographic things, too, so it's in my hand a lot anyway (quite apart from using it as a communication device). I have a film reciprocity calculator in the phone, a light meter (don't use it much), and a GPS navigation app for hikers, which I use to hike to locations I want to shoot. And the phone slides easily into a chest pocket in my hiking jacket, where it has essentially no bulk or weight, and I can take it out and check a composition in 15 seconds without taking my backpack off, or digging into a bag.

I should also say that my Google Pixel 4 is a really good camera in and of itself. I sometimes use it to take real pictures, even when I've got my 6x7 system with me. This is why it's such a bummer to me that there are no viewfinder apps for Android that really work well for me. I have to carry an iPhone when I'm out photographing, even though I don't use it for anything else.

The cellphone has great features. My biggest problem is I can't see anything on the screen especially during the day when the sun is behind me. Even in shady areas, it's hard. My micro 4/3 has a viewfinder in addition to the screen, although I lost it, well, drove over it actually. My RX100 1" is smaller, fits in my shirt pocket, and has a viewfinder although I haven't tried it because it only goes to f11 and my E-PL1 micro 4/3 goes to f22 which is a better start point for 4x5 cameras.

The biggest issue I have with using the cameras for exposure is I've only been doing it since Covid when I started 4x5 shooting. I only have 40-50 shots. So it's a work in progress. Combined with learning LF photography, I'm overwhelmed with so many details with the whole process and making mistakes. But I have gotten some nice shots that I'm happy with. I'll be 76 in a few days and hope God gives me enough time to figure it all out.

 

[sterioma]

Combined with learning LF photography, I'm overwhelmed with so many details with the whole process and making mistakes. But I have gotten some nice shots that I'm happy with. I'll be 76 in a few days and hope God gives me enough time to figure it all out.

I have seen a few photos and they look great. I would love to try large format one day, and I applaud you for starting this journey.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I have seen a few photos and they look great. I would love to try large format one day, and I applaud you for starting this journey.

Thanks. Where can we see yours?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thanks. Where can we see yours?

Uh, I will show you mine if you show me yours.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Uh, I will show you mine if you show me yours.

We really need to stop meeting like this.

 

[Sirius Glass]

We really need to stop meeting like this.

Then we should get a room.

 

[cirwin2010]

Just thought I would follow up on this thread. Ultimately I decided to keep the RZ67 and sell the Mamiya 645e.

Shortly after creating this thread I did some portrait work with the RZ67 with the 110mm and 180mm lenses. The results came out stunning and I couldn't let go of it. I'll probably get a eye level finder and grip for it at some point. Doing tight head shots while standing on a chair to get a straight on perspective with the WLF isn't the most elegant solution.

I sold the 645e for more than I bought it for and got myself a Mamiya c330 Professional S with a 55mm and 105mm DS lens. I even managed to find a parallax correction insert for the 55mm and 65mm lenses. Since I like shooting handheld a lot, it seems like the TLR will allow slower shutter speeds than the Hasselblad and the kit cost several hundred less than a 500cm with 80mm in the same condition.

I haven't tested out the new kit just yet, but I'm hoping the lenses are aligned and everything checks out.

 

[narsuitus]

@cirwin2010

Wise decision, I once owned and shot the Mamiya 220 TLR with 55, 80, and 180mm lenses and a prism finder.

I now shoot with the RB67 SLR with 50, 90, and 180mm lenses with a prism finder.

Both were excellent for portrait work.

 

[eli griggs]

Good luck with the new camera, that camera is a good piece of gear and, I hope it's all that you need for a kit, and you have years of enjoyment out of it.

Be Safe, Stay Warm and Good speed to all of you and your Loved Ones.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Just thought I would follow up on this thread. Ultimately I decided to keep the RZ67 and sell the Mamiya 645e.

Shortly after creating this thread I did some portrait work with the RZ67 with the 110mm and 180mm lenses. The results came out stunning and I couldn't let go of it. I'll probably get a eye level finder and grip for it at some point. Doing tight head shots while standing on a chair to get a straight on perspective with the WLF isn't the most elegant solution.

I sold the 645e for more than I bought it for and got myself a Mamiya c330 Professional S with a 55mm and 105mm DS lens. I even managed to find a parallax correction insert for the 55mm and 65mm lenses. Since I like shooting handheld a lot, it seems like the TLR will allow slower shutter speeds than the Hasselblad and the kit cost several hundred less than a 500cm with 80mm in the same condition.

I haven't tested out the new kit just yet, but I'm hoping the lenses are aligned and everything checks out.

There is still time to buy into Hasselblad before the prices rise. Buy now you will be glad you did.

 

[cirwin2010]

There is still time to buy into Hasselblad before the prices rise. Buy now you will be glad you did.

I might still get one at some point. My RZ67 has been going up in value as well (part of my reason for not selling it just yet). If I get a Hasselblad kit, I would probably be selling this so I'm not too concerned with rising prices.

 

[k.hendrik]

a wise decision:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/media/girl.64365/
show, don't tell

 

[Sirius Glass]

I might still get one at some point. My RZ67 has been going up in value as well (part of my reason for not selling it just yet). If I get a Hasselblad kit, I would probably be selling this so I'm not too concerned with rising prices.

You do not have to sell anything. That is the foundation of GAS. You can start now buying before the price increases. Buy now! Hurry! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good! GAS is good!

 

[cirwin2010]

Well, sadly it looks like I need to return the 105mm DS lens. The Japan Ebay seller listed the item as mint, but there is some sort of separation or other issue going on in the lens. Looks like a dark crescent when looking through both the viewing and taking lenses. Sadly there aren't many if any other 105mm DS lenses currently available online in the condition I want.

I might get a 135mm or 180mm Super for the time being. KEH has an 80mm in "Bargain" condition, but I don't have experience buying from them with anything less than "excellent."

 

[Sirius Glass]

Well, sadly it looks like I need to return the 105mm DS lens. The Japan Ebay seller listed the item as mint, but there is some sort of separation or other issue going on in the lens. Looks like a dark crescent when looking through both the viewing and taking lenses. Sadly there aren't many if any other 105mm DS lenses currently available online in the condition I want.

I might get a 135mm or 180mm Super for the time being. KEH has an 80mm in "Bargain" condition, but I don't have experience buying from them with anything less than "excellent."

I have bought lower than EX and it came as better than I expected. You can always send it back. Stick to CF or later lenses.

 

[Toasty]

I don't know if this has been mentioned yet but the Hasselblad lens focus is SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWW.

It's great that it's very precise but the throw is very long and the dampening is heavy, even more so if your lens hasn't been serviced in a while. If you need to focus with any speed at all you'll need to get used to pre focusing. It's gonna be pretty shocking coming from the RZ especially.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I don't know if this has been mentioned yet but the Hasselblad lens focus is SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWW.

It's great that it's very precise but the throw is very long and the dampening is heavy, even more so if your lens hasn't been serviced in a while. If you need to focus with any speed at all you'll need to get used to pre focusing. It's gonna be pretty shocking coming from the RZ especially.

Or use it more and you will learn to turn it faster back and forth.

 

[Toasty]

Or use it more and you will learn to turn it faster back and forth.

I've used it plenty they are just slower to focus than other cameras. There's a reason they make a little focus handle, you aren't going to get from infinity to minimum focus without repositioning your hand a few times. I'm not the first person to bring this up, it's a common observation.

 

[Arthurwg]

Well, sadly it looks like I need to return the 105mm DS lens. The Japan Ebay seller listed the item as mint, but there is some sort of separation or other issue going on in the lens. Looks like a dark crescent when looking through both the viewing and taking lenses. Sadly there aren't many if any other 105mm DS lenses currently available online in the condition I want.

I might get a 135mm or 180mm Super for the time being. KEH has an 80mm in "Bargain" condition, but I don't have experience buying from them with anything less than "excellent."

Some of these Japanese sellers consider anything that has not been dropped from a five story building to be MINT.