Considering first MF purchase - input appreciated

[MattKing]

The other "best thing" about sniping is it means that time zone differences don't matter (and you aren't tempted to be on eBay when you are at work).

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

However, getting the last bid in doesn't guarantee you will win. If an earlier bid had an higher maximum than your snipe, that will win regardless of when you submit your bid.

The best thing about sniping is avoiding the bidding wars. When a bunch of people are manually submitting bids over the course of a few days, the prices can get quite out of hand. People will go over their "maximum" because it becomes so tempting to be the winner.

True, that.

Winning involves two variables. Time remaining (minimum possible) and bid amount (maximum possible).

I've been an active buyer for many years. My aggregate total in purchases well exceeds $10,000. This is an expensive hobby. In all those years I've never lost an auction. Not once. I've only twice been forced to pay anywhere near my actual maximum bid amount. And I was happy to do so (see below).

I've never used sniping software.

The key is to just manually place your bid 3-5 seconds before the auction closes. That's plenty close enough. As Truzi says, that help hold down bidding wars that get out of hand. Then make sure you have already considered well and decided in advance what your maximum comfortable bid amount will be.

You must be realistic. You must ask and answer with brutal honestly the two related questions, "If I win at this amount, will I still be happy? If I lose at this amount plus one dollar more, will I still be happy?"

If your answers to these two questions are honestly and truly yes, you're good to go. You will walk away happy regardless of what happens. And if, like me, you only bid on items that you really, really want and can really, really justify buying and will really, really use to solve real problems, your bid will almost always be the highest. And if someone else wanted it more, it won't matter. If it does, you didn't honestly answer those two questions.

I have yet to encounter that second outcome.

Ken

 

[gus.]

Haha, that's what makes me laugh, I feel like I lost by playing fair. Admittedly it was a little irritating after babysitting the auction all week. Ah well, I'll snipe the next!

 

[tkamiya]

If you are not in a hurry, RB and RZ does show up in APUG classified fairly often. I think there were one of each just recently....

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use gixen for sniping. It's web-based and free.

However, getting the last bid in doesn't guarantee you will win. If an earlier bid had an higher maximum than your snipe, that will win regardless of when you submit your bid.

The best thing about sniping is avoiding the bidding wars. When a bunch of people are manually submitting bids over the course of a few days, the prices can get quite out of hand. People will go over their "maximum" because it becomes so tempting to be the winner.

That is what I do. If I was out bid, I would not have gone that high anyway.

 

[Noble]

Haha, that's what makes me laugh, I feel like I lost by playing fair. Admittedly it was a little irritating after babysitting the auction all week. Ah well, I'll snipe the next!

Sniping is "playing fair." If someone bids before you and they have the same max bid they win and you lose. You accept that risk when you snipe. You also risk a software or internet malfunction in the critical sniping window.

One big advantage of sniping is that it also doesn't call attention to auctions. Dealing with market psychology is just another facet of the game. As others have stated often the other participants are irrational. You don't want to poke them with a stick. It's amazing people will avoid totally good auctions if they are ending soon and have no bids. But they will swarm like flies on a dung heap if they see some bidding action on a very mediocre listing. It's the herd mentality. Look up "shill bidding." If an auction has too much bidding action early on I usually move on. You get the deals when you have a motivated seller and the herd is asleep. Eprey has turned into a bit of a joke these days. There are very few legitimate actions starting at $.99. It is a flood of ridiculous "Buy It Now" offers. I have literally seen cameras on their for 6+months continuously with ridiculous "Buy It Now" offers. Even as much better versions of camera have sold for a fraction of the price. I don't get what the purpose is of having so many ridiculous listings.

Hey folks! Name's Gus - washed up digital photographer gone film! ;D

I've been shooting 35mm for fun for a few years now and have finally given into the MF bug. For a while I was interested in the Mamiya 645 for it's modularity. I figured 120 was the next step up. However, my goal is to get even REMOTELY close to shooting wonderful b/w portraits like this...

You can make pictures like that with any semidecent MF camera (Pentax, Bronica, Hasselblad, Rollei, Mamyia, etc.)

So my question is, what do you guys/gals think about the Pentax 6x7? It doesn't offer modular options - is there something that does? Does it really matter that I cannot switch film cartridges mid-shoot?

If you've never had it you will never miss it. If you ever do get it and a couple of backs you will wonder how you ever lived without it. I have three backs at the moment and it's great. Film ain't cheap. I can load 25 ISO B&W, 400 ISO B&W, and 100 ISO C-41 or whatever combination is going to cover my day. Or I can leave two backs empty and just load them as needed. The point is you never really have to waste some frames just because you want to change to color or lighting conditions demand a higher ISO. If you are a low volume shooter the backs are a God send. If you work in a high volume studio with a 6x7 camera... well the end of the roll is going to come fast... very fast, so backs may be more of a hassle and expense than they are worth.

 

[Firestarter]

I use a Bronica SQAi and a Mamiya RZ67 II.

For normal portraits I much prefer the square format. It just seems to suit portraits better, especially head shots and head and shoulder shots etc. However if you want to do a full length or even 3/4 length portrait the 6x7 format can fit better.

Other main difference between these two cameras is the Mamiya is not all that comfortable to use hand held, it just doesn't feel natural. I am right handed so I end up supporting the beast with my left hand and using my right hand for the focusing ( seems to feel better then the opposite ), so a tripod is almost a must. The Bronica on the other hand is no more cumbersome than a large 35mm SLR, held with my right hand and focused with my left, like a 35mm SLR.

There is a hand grip for the RZ and that may improve things but I have yet to try one.

All in all for Portraits I would be 90% in favour of a square format.

 

[ac12]

@Firestarter
The Hasselblad is similar to your Mamiya,
with your left hand you support the camera and your finger is on the shutter release
with your right hand you focus and work the film advance

It just takes using the camera for a while to train your muscles to work the controls and get the hang of it.
Especially the fine motor control of the finger on the shutter release.

 

[Alan Gales]

Fairestarter,

The hand grip for the RZ improves things immensely! I used to have one and they are well worth the money. For hand held shooting the RZ feels like a totally different camera using the hand grip. If you own an RZ I highly recommend getting one.

 

[Alan Gales]

Sorry Firestarter. I gave you an extra "a".

 

[gus.]

Hey folks! Albeit late, I just wanted to thank everybody for their input. As some suggested, I kept my eyes peeled on the classified section here and got a great deal from a fellow APUG member a few weeks ago. Here's the new addition!



I saved the box, haha.



Three lenses, two 120 backs, one 6x7 back, a polaroid back, winder, body & WLF.



^Pardon the iPhone photos. And a silly shot,



It's an exciting time for me! I unearthed all my darkroom stuff from the garage. About 1/3rd of everything,



So, thanks again and I'm hoping to contribute to the gallery soon enough!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Enjoy!

 

[ToddB]

Wow!! Awesome set up. Now go out and shoot some photos like a real professional photographer with a real camera.

ToddB

 

[gus.]

Hey folks, I won't pretend to be an expert on DOF. However, aside from its quickness, what's the hubbub all about regarding the 110/2.8? The 'portrait' lens? I ask because I have an RZ 90, and RB 65/180mm lenses. The 90 is 3.5 and I wonder how much more control the 2.8 gives me as I seem to get decent enough depth at 3.5. The 110/2.8 isn't cheap - trying to figure it out!

 

[MattKing]

Hey folks, I won't pretend to be an expert on DOF. However, aside from its quickness, what's the hubbub all about regarding the 110/2.8? The 'portrait' lens? I ask because I have an RZ 90, and RB 65/180mm lenses. The 90 is 3.5 and I wonder how much more control the 2.8 gives me as I seem to get decent enough depth at 3.5. The 110/2.8 isn't cheap - trying to figure it out!

The extra 2/3 stop makes a definite difference when composing and focusing. The lens is relatively compact, very sharp, and a focal length that appeals to many people.

 

[pbromaghin]

Wow, Gus. Nice setup. Welcome back to film.

 

[Alan Gales]

Like Matt says.


I used to own an RZ and the 50mm ULD, the 110mm, and the 180mm. The 110 was my favorite.

The first time I shot it I took some group family portraits of my wife, our daughter, her son and daughter-in-law, and new granddaughter. These were waist and up seated group shots with different ones holding the baby so no one individual was that large in the photos. My wife complained that you could see every pore and wrinkle in her skin.

 

[tron_]

Congrats on the new gear!! Good choice on the RZ too, thing is built like a tank and I can't wait to see the shots you get from it. As far as the 110 f/2.8, I own one and it's my favorite lens out of any lens I own. I highly recommend buying it. Between that and the 50mm ULD I don't want anything else!

 

[Kyon Thinh]

Hey folks, I won't pretend to be an expert on DOF. However, aside from its quickness, what's the hubbub all about regarding the 110/2.8? The 'portrait' lens? I ask because I have an RZ 90, and RB 65/180mm lenses. The 90 is 3.5 and I wonder how much more control the 2.8 gives me as I seem to get decent enough depth at 3.5. The 110/2.8 isn't cheap - trying to figure it out!

I had both of them. Take both of them to make some portrait shots and you will know why people like 110mm/2.8 better, distortion, view angle, etc... After that I sold my 90mm/3.5. Btw the 90mm is bigger, it's as big as 50mm f/4.5.

 

[Mark Feldstein]

NICE. Congrats and welcome to the MF party ! Two suggestions: I'd recommend a good cable release and a ball head on a sturdier tripod. I couldn't see the film mags you scored, but you can probably find some used 6x9 mags to work on that back AND a polaroid back that'll do Fuji color pak film.

A good portrait lens for that body is a 150mm. And for landscapes, etc., a 50mm Distagon. Keep checking around. Those used lenses abound these days. Oh, and I like B&H prices on film.
Have lotsa fun.
Mark