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one90guy

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I have had 2 SQ-A's and neither lasted very long, just luck of the draw. My daughter has one that works great and she is hard on her equipment. I have been using a EC for about 3 years now and the only problem I have had is on of my backs only counts to 8, it stills works and will reset to 0. I am happy with the results I get with it. As I mainly shoot landscapes the noise is no problem.

David
 

Tony-S

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Finally, what about the GS-1? Can anyone tell me how it compares to the RB67 and/or P67? The Mamiya and Pentax 6x7 systems both have some very nice wides: the aforementioned 65mm K/L for the Mamiya, and the aspirationaly priced but apparently fantastic 55mm SMC for Pentax, among others.

When I was getting into 6x7, I compared all thee and settled on the GS-1 for its size and electromagnetic shutter.

The GS has a 50mm lens as its widest, but I haven't been able to dig up much information on its performance. I assume it's good; I just wonder if it's better than the RB67's 50, which I didn't find to be all that great compared to the 65mm K/L.

I have the 50, 65, 100, 110 macro, 150, 200 and 250. The 50, 110 and 200 are superb. The rest are very good.

Also, how would you rate the GS-1 for hikes and walk-around photography? I know it's got to be better than the RB67 for such uses, but what about in comparison to the P67?

I've hiked in Rocky Mountain, Glacier and Yosemite National Parks with the GS-1, three lenses and two backs. Not too bad of a load for 6x7 SLR.

Avalanche Creek 1, Glacier National Park


Portrait

TestGardens-8

Rocky Mountain National Park (hike from Fall River Road)
 
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yessammassey

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Thanks for the in-depth post, especially the lens tip. Nice photos, too.
 

GRHazelton

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Do know that on the S2a and perhaps all of the focal plane Bronnies the focus screen is held in the proper position by foam strips, to oversimplify the issue. When, not if, these deteriorate, infinity focus is impossible. The fix isn't difficult, but a prospective buyer needs to be aware of the problem.
 

RichardJack

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Hi,
All of the newer generation focusing screens are brighter, and more importantly easier to find. I've been searching for a split-image screen for my EC-TL for a year (anyone have one?). More importantly if you use a prism that is where you'll see a big difference. The view (finder magnification) is larger and brighter in the ETR/SQ/GS models. The older S2/S2A were horrible to shoot a wedding with, the EC/EC-TL was only slightly brighter. I agree, the ETR-S and ETR-Si are a joy. I'm new to the 645 system only having bought into the system a few weeks back. As a wedding photographer I never considered one or a GS because I didn't want to have to flip the camera for verticals and then horizontal. For some reason I always had the idea that the 645 was a toy aimed at 35mm photographers wanting to test the waters of MF. I was very wrong. The ETR system is very well made and produces excellent results. Being partial to waist level shooting 6x6 is still my favorite. Using the older cameras EC-TL and older is like driving a classic car where you take your time, don't push it too hard at the same time loving the nostalgia of the whole experience.
Rick
 

John Wiegerink

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Hi,
All of the newer generation focusing screens are brighter, and more importantly easier to find. I've been searching for a split-image screen for my EC-TL for a year (anyone have one?). More importantly if you use a prism that is where you'll see a big difference. The view (finder magnification) is larger and brighter in the ETR/SQ/GS models. The older S2/S2A were horrible to shoot a wedding with, the EC/EC-TL was only slightly brighter. I agree, the ETR-S and ETR-Si are a joy. I'm new to the 645 system only having bought into the system a few weeks back. As a wedding photographer I never considered one or a GS because I didn't want to have to flip the camera for verticals and then horizontal. For some reason I always had the idea that the 645 was a toy aimed at 35mm photographers wanting to test the waters of MF. I was very wrong. The ETR system is very well made and produces excellent results. Being partial to waist level shooting 6x6 is still my favorite. Using the older cameras EC-TL and older is like driving a classic car where you take your time, don't push it too hard at the same time loving the nostalgia of the whole experience.
Rick
I shot many weddings with an S2a and every bride was pleased. Never had it fail or even a glitch with the S2a. As for the dimness of the focusing screen? My eyes were much, much brighter back then.
 

hashtagquack

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I shot many weddings with an S2a and every bride was pleased. Never had it fail or even a glitch with the S2a. As for the dimness of the focusing screen? My eyes were much, much brighter back then.

Don't get me wrong, it's by no means as bad as a squinty rangefinder on a old folder but in a close up, wide open situation, the ETRSI screen is by far preferable.

We must know though, how did shooting the ceremony go with the thunderclap that is the S2a :laugh:
 

Alan Gales

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I shot many weddings with an S2a and every bride was pleased. Never had it fail or even a glitch with the S2a. As for the dimness of the focusing screen? My eyes were much, much brighter back then.

I heard that some preachers/priests didn't care for the loud shutters during the ceremony. :smile:
 

moto-uno

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When I think of the near endless camera kits ( pretty well every format up to 4x5 ) I have, that when traveling abroad the only kit I've ever
brought with me is "drum roll please" the Bronica Etrsi , always works ! After 16 hours of flying and going through endless film
searches , etc , it's a decision I don't take lightly . I have a half dozen backs and none of them have been a problem , maybe less
pro abuse than the 6x6 . Peter
 

John Wiegerink

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Don't get me wrong, it's by no means as bad as a squinty rangefinder on a old folder but in a close up, wide open situation, the ETRSI screen is by far preferable.

We must know though, how did shooting the ceremony go with the thunderclap that is the S2a :laugh:
This is to Alan also. My eyes were much better back then, but my ears were better also. Yes, it was the loudest camera I have ever used for a wedding and the reason I went to a Koni-Omega outfit. I later went Hasselblad and could run around during the ceremony and I was hardly noticed. My worst wedding with the Bronica S2a was in a Methodist church and that Methodist preacher was a real son-of-gun. He wouldn't allow any flash during the ceremony and that meant the folks sitting in the pews also. When the bride came down the isle all the folks stood up and some started using their Instamatic cameras with flash. He stopped the ceremony and explained that it would go no further if one more flash went off. I made it through the wedding alright and the shots were just fine, but would have been better with my potato masher kicking in some more lumens. After the ceremony he told me I had the loudest camera he had ever heard go off in that church while he was there. It wasn't long after that I switched systems. Still, the Bronica S2a never failed me and the pictures were as good as I got from the Koni and Hasselblad, but they came at a price. Noise!
 
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yessammassey

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The focal plane bronicas do have a certain charm, don't they? In photos at least, they look as nice as contemporary hasselblads. They seem very unique, and maybe it's something of a shame that the later cameras didn't hang on to the special mirror design. The separate helicoid and glass lens parts are a cool concept, too; they look like giant versions of the early Nikon UWA SLR lenses that one had to lock the mirror up to use. (Which I guess would follow, seeing as how Nikon made those early bronica lenses too.)

I already have two too many 'cool,' 'vintage' MF cameras, though. For me, realistically, something that's newer and generally better-working is going to suit my needs just fine. And I'm still posting in this Bronica thread, because I'm probably just a few hours from clicking the buy button on an SQ-A with AE finder and 80mm lens (plus film back and some extras - typical secondhand kit). But first, I need to make sure I know why this is my best choice. Some of my reasoning is based on information from posters in this thread. Let my lay out the subjective and technical reasons that I've zeroed in on the SQ-A..

(1.) I need a portable, hand-holdable, medium format camera. This naturally suggests either 645 format or $1000+ buy-in ('blad, P67, Mamiya RF, etc). I'm coming off of a stint with the Fuji GA645Zi, which I no longer own. I was happy with that camera when it functioned, and I'm sure that I could find one that didn't suffer from any major issues if I continued to look, but (2.) I think I'd rather work with a larger format than 645. 645 carries an appreciably greater level of detail than 35mm, and its size hits the sweet spot - in the sense that it can be scanned in my flatbed or easily digitized with my DSLR+macro lens setup, but one can always crop down, and the square format allows for some leeway with framing. I also find that full 6x6 frame scans from my flatbed look a little better, compared to 645 at the same magnification (duh!). I'm also just partial to square compositions, especially since I already have 6x7 and 6x9 cameras (both somewhat cumbersome); 645 just seems so small in comparison. I might let portability win out and go for 645 again, but for the existence of the SQs, which are hardly any bigger than Pentax or Mamiya 645s.

(3.) Automation. The most automated MF camera I currently own is a Kiev 60 with an uncoupled TTL prism! It's a pretty portable camera, and I could just live with it if it didn't have a weird shutter issue... everyone knows about the reliability of Kiev shutters; it's an issue for another thread.

I wish there was a website for Bronica that was like that MIR site for Nikon, because information about them is kind of scarse. The SQ-A I'm looking at has a metered prism. I don't know which one exactly. It has an on/off switch on one side and a manual/auto switch on the other. It's an AE meter, and I assume it's an averaging type. I don't know if it's considered very good or not, but I'm hoping it will be generally smart enough to give me proper exposure in most situations. I can live with manually dialing in backlight compensation and the like. The key is that it will allow for faster and more precise shooting, which would open up more options for street/documentary/portrait work. (4.) The SQ-A has no motor drive option, but I think I'd rather save the extra money I'd spend on an SQ-Ai... especially since the SQ-A is more robustly built than the AI, according to posters in this thread (right?). At this point, I'd rather have a slightly bulky but robust automated camera than a smaller and even more automated camera that's relatively delicate and easily damaged/broken.

...So that's my reasoning in favor of the SQ-A. Now here are the aspects I'm neutral on.

(1.) Leaf shutters. I already have two leaf shutter cameras. I don't do much stuff with flash, although I found the GA645Zi's little pop-up to be quite useful. The SQ-A doesn't have an attached flash, and I'll probably forgo bringing one along most of the time, except for certain unusual situations. I'd rather have faster apertures and higher shutter speeds than flash sync most of the time. The lack of shutter vibration is a major plus, though. And the 80mm standard lens is a decent (for MF) f/2.8. So all-in-all, it's a wash.

(2.) Lenses. I can't see any real difference in the scans, but some lens test websites and internet testimonials give me the impression that while the PS lenses avail themselves just fine, they have a lot of 'room to grow' in comparison to Hasselblad & Mamiya RF lenses, or even the best in the 'big three' 6x7 lens lineups. I'm talking about fine detail reproduction here. It's not a huge deal to me; I can always break out the big cumbersome cameras if I need to do super detail-critical stuff. And on the plus side, the 80mm seems to be close to peak sharpness when wide open, and the 40mm has very even performance across the frame. I'll probably see more 'image quality' improvements from those features than I would from raw sharpness, unless I'm printing big. (I do like printing big, though.. but I can't afford to do it often.) Another wash.

And there's one big negative: no true bulb mode. It's just one thing, but kind of close to a deal-killer for me. I do a lot of photo walks in the city, and the long-exposure urban landscape at night is one of my favorites to take. The longest shutter speed being 8 seconds (rather than the 1 second I'm used to with my other cameras) helps a lot, but I watched a YouTube video showing how to use the T mode, and it looks like closing the shutter using that method could definitely introduce vibrations. I've never trusted the hat trick, but guess I'll have to try it out sooner or later. I'm always just worried that, unless it's done very quickly and surely, it could introduce its own set of problems.

That's about it. I wonder if anyone thinks there's a better camera for my situation than the SQ-A, based on the ramblings I've put down here.
 

klownshed

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The sq-ai has a bulb mode. The drawback being it drains the battery whilst the shutter is open.

I have both sq metred prisms. They are heavy and cumbersome and make the SQ-a hard to hold without the speed grip. The AE prism can set the shutter speed for you, the non AE prism can't. The AE prism has an additional shutter speed dial attached to it. The readout in the finder is hard to read and dim on my SQ. I've cleaned the contacts but never get a bright meter

Once you add the grip and prism finder it gets very bulky related to the crank with WLF.

There is also an SQ-Am that does have motor drive. It's like the speed grip on steroids. It's also pretty bulky.

I use my SQ-A with the WLF pretty much exclusively. The speed grip and prisms stay at home. I like the WLF on a tripod for landscapes. For studio style portrait stuff the prisms would be better, but I don't do that kind of photography.

The more automated MF SLR cameras like the later Pentax and Mamiyas all seem to be 645.

For better portability, the Mamiya 6 seems to be the ultimate 6x6 for automation and relative portability.

But the Sq is a nice system and being modular you can make it how you like it.

I'd be happy to upgrade to an Ai one day for bulb mode. T mode is pretty fiddly in practice, especially with cold hands...

The 40mm lens is lovely. I have the PS version which is better for filters as the S version has a built in petal hood. But due to its size, using filters with it is still tricky. The Colin Z filter holder just about fits (they make a 95mm ring for it) but it still doesn't slot on perfectly. The 50mm only has a 72mm ring and the same holder definitely fits better. I think you need a special holder for the Lee system, their rings don't go up to 95mm.

But for the price, the 40mm is amazing.


And that's the crunch. All of the above is quite affordable. I paid £100 for my 40mm in excellent condition. Try getting a similar lens for a different system for close to that! Even the backs I complain about are under £100.

My entire SQ set up has cost under £500 and I have the 40, 50, 80 and 150 lenses, WLF, 2x prisms, speed grip, 3 dodgy backs and some other bits and bobs.
 
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yessammassey

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The sq-ai has a bulb mode. The drawback being it drains the battery whilst the shutter is open.

I have both sq metred prisms. They are heavy and cumbersome and make the SQ-a hard to hold without the speed grip. The AE prism can set the shutter speed for you, the non AE prism can't. The AE prism has an additional shutter speed dial attached to it. The readout in the finder is hard to read and dim on my SQ. I've cleaned the contacts but never get a bright meter

Once you add the grip and prism finder it gets very bulky related to the crank with WLF.

There is also an SQ-Am that does have motor drive. It's like the speed grip on steroids. It's also pretty bulky.

I use my SQ-A with the WLF pretty much exclusively. The speed grip and prisms stay at home. I like the WLF on a tripod for landscapes. For studio style portrait stuff the prisms would be better, but I don't do that kind of photography.

The more automated MF SLR cameras like the later Pentax and Mamiyas all seem to be 645.

For better portability, the Mamiya 6 seems to be the ultimate 6x6 for automation and relative portability.

But the Sq is a nice system and being modular you can make it how you like it.

I'd be happy to upgrade to an Ai one day for bulb mode. T mode is pretty fiddly in practice, especially with cold hands...

The 40mm lens is lovely. I have the PS version which is better for filters as the S version has a built in petal hood. But due to its size, using filters with it is still tricky. The Colin Z filter holder just about fits (they make a 95mm ring for it) but it still doesn't slot on perfectly. The 50mm only has a 72mm ring and the same holder definitely fits better. I think you need a special holder for the Lee system, their rings don't go up to 95mm.

But for the price, the 40mm is amazing.


And that's the crunch. All of the above is quite affordable. I paid £100 for my 40mm in excellent condition. Try getting a similar lens for a different system for close to that! Even the backs I complain about are under £100.

My entire SQ set up has cost under £500 and I have the 40, 50, 80 and 150 lenses, WLF, 2x prisms, speed grip, 3 dodgy backs and some other bits and bobs.

I was neutral on SQ lenses in my previous post, but the 40mm is quite cheap and I do already have a cokin Z filter system. Plus I need a good wide, for any format, right now. This is making the SQ sound good.

After carting an RB67 (with left hand grip) around the streets for months, I bet an SQ w/metered finder wouldn't be too bad. But the real portability dream (something I can put a strap on, drop over my neck, and not have to constantly hold up) might not be achievable with the AE prism attached, eh? I can't find an SQ locally to handle myself.

I was initially looking at the Ai - it's newer and has bulb mode, plus the option of a motorized grip. And a better AE meter prism, too?

But the heads in this thread say that the SQ has better guts, unless I'm mistaken (maybe it was the S2a vs the EC?). (Stuck posting from my phone so it's hard to go back and refrence.) I'm sticking with the assumption that SQ-As have more metal and less plastic in Their clockwork parts. I think that's right. Plus the AI is a couple hundred $$ more, on average.

Gosh, that GA645Zi was such a consumate street camera, though. I guess for general shooting I could get away with sunny 16 and WLF, but urban photography can be challenging around the morning and evening hours, when I do the most of my shooting. The light changes fast. I have a handheld meter, but it's just enough to slow me down.

I could afford an SQ-A and one of the older Fuji 645 RFs. Maybe that's the answer; just spend more money, y'know?

... Or I could commit to liquidating a lot of the crap I've got sitting around (not that I could fairly ask that much for a lot of it... And not to mention my own personal preference for not reintroducing 'generally working but subtly flawed' used camera gear back into the market... A lot of which I wish I hadn't bought, but couldn't return...) Even though the wider used film camera market is a shambles right now in my opinion (not to cast any shade on the fine folks in the APUG classifieds who I can only assume are trading in well-cared-for gear or are otherwise completely upfront about any issues)

But if I did, it would clear up the shelf space for s Mamiya 6. Of course, if I'm spending the money on a 6, I might as well get a 7 instead, and if I'm spending the money on a 7, I might as well get a technical field camera with a roll film back instead, and if I'm spending the money on a field camera, I might as well makes it a down payment on a Subaru BRZ instead, and if I'm spending the money on a down payment for a Subaru BRZ, I might as well make it a pickup truck instead, and if I'm spent the money on a new pickup...

Alright, guys, I think I've got it now. I'm buying a condo.

But I guess I still need to think about whether I should get the bronica or not.

Edit: joking and blathering aside, one aspiration I've had, since getting the GA645Zi and realizing how much faster and more precise it was compared to the RB or Kiev, is to do some paid portrait & event work on the side. People like the square format, but they don't like waiting for you to meter the scene and futz around with focus. I've taken some nice pictures of my friends' weddings with the Kiev, but I would never trust it. The RB67 could be a worthy backup, but not a main event camera. All told, this is another reason I'd choose an SQ w/AE over an automated 645 option.

It follows, then, that I'd need a good portrait lens for the SQ. (It's a shame my CZJ 180/2.8 is stuck to such a flawed camera as the Kiev.) Ideally, it'd be f/3.5 or faster, a little softer wide open, razor sharp past f/5.6, and produce very nice bokeh. What comes closest to fitting the bill among lenses for the SQ? According to the 'medium format lens testing' website's table, the 200mm f/4 is quite soft all across its aperture range, which discounts it from use in my mind. Maybe the tester got a bad copy, but I'd rather not spend the time and money to figure out if that's actually the case or not.

Edit 2: But my immediate want is for a camera that works for expressive photography. I'd like to win a theoretical leandscape photography competition, or even sell a print, more than I'd want to get a paid portrait job. That's where I get back to the lens sharpness thing. I will be cropping to 3:2 relatively often if I get an SQ. I hope the wide angles (especially the 40mm) can handle being blown up after cropping and keep good detail.

... One crazy thing that gives the whole SQ system a halo effect for me is the existence of the 500mm f/8 PS lens. I'd love to do wildlife photography with medium format. (I think there was an article about someone trying to do it on Luminous Landscape at some point. It didn't work out that well, but still.) Wildlife photography is what keeps me in digital gear at all.
 
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hsandler

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Mike Johnston of The Online Photographer recommended the 150mm S lens for portraits. I have one, but don't use it much. It's fine but doesn't focus close enough for tight head and shoulders filling the frame. That's ok, as one really wants to be back at least 6 feet for pleasing perspective in most portraits.
http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2012/10/bargain-medium-format.html

If you are scanning with a flatbed, I doubt you will be able to perceive small differences in lens resolution. The scanner is the weak link in the chain.

I have done the hat trick for time exposures. It's fine, but awkward. If you do a lot, the SQ-Ai might be worthwhile for you. I would not worry about plastic vs. metal. But from what I have read, the weak point is the battery door and contacts for the separate button cells vs. The single 6v battery in the SQ-A. Also, I may be wrong, but I think the SQ-Ai may need an electric cable release, not a simple mechanical one like the SQ-A.
 
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DWThomas

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But from what I have read, the weak point is the battery door and contacts for the separate button cells vs. The single 6v battery in the SQ-A. Also, I may be wrong, but I think the SQ-Ai may need an electric cable release, not a simple mechanical one like the SQ-A.
That is my understanding. I have a manual for the SQ-Ai here, but decided from what I had read years back the SQ-A was a better bet for me. The Ai, in addition to bulb, also has a 16 second timed exposure where the SQ and SQ-A only go to 8. I suppose that could be handy on occasion.
 

klownshed

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With the SQ-A's lack of bulb mode I've often thought it would be good if you could take multiple exposures at 8 seconds each instead up to the time required. But in multiple exposure mode you have to cock the shutter between each exposure which defeats the objects as there would be far more vibration that way than using the T mode switch on the lens.

I don't think it's possible, but a way to just keep tripping the leaf shutter with the mirror already up without having to use the film advance would be good.
 
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yessammassey

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Mike Johnston of The Online Photographer recommended the 150mm S lens for portraits. I have one, but don't use it much. It's fine but doesn't focus close enough for tight head and shoulders filling the frame. That's ok, as one really wants to be back at least 6 feet for pleasing perspective in most portraits.
http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2012/10/bargain-medium-format.html

If you are scanning with a flatbed, I doubt you will be able to perceive small differences in lens resolution. The scanner is the weak link in the chain.

I have done the hat trick for time exposures. It's fine, but awkward. If you do a lot, the SQ-Ai might be worthwhile for you. I would not worry about plastic vs. metal. But from what I have read, the weak point is the battery door and contacts for the separate button cells vs. The single 6v battery in the SQ-A. Also, I may be wrong, but I think the SQ-Ai may need an electric cable release, not a simple mechanical one like the SQ-A.
Regarding the MFD of the 150mm, I remember reading that bronica produced a lot of extension tubes for the gs-1 lenses to allow for close focus. Maybe it's similar with the SQ.
 

jimjm

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Regarding the MFD of the 150mm, I remember reading that bronica produced a lot of extension tubes for the gs-1 lenses to allow for close focus. Maybe it's similar with the SQ.
That's right. With the S-36 extension tube and the 150mm lens, you can focus on a subject between 30-36 inches away. With the 200mm lens, it will get you a bit further at 46-60 inches, which would be a comfortable distance for head & shoulder portraits.
 

DWThomas

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That's right. With the S-36 extension tube and the 150mm lens, you can focus on a subject between 30-36 inches away. With the 200mm lens, it will get you a bit further at 46-60 inches, which would be a comfortable distance for head & shoulder portraits.
I seem to recall the 180mm lens focuses closer than the the 150 -- maybe that's why it typically costs more!
 

RichardJack

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I recently found a 180mm PS for $130 in beautiful shape, they are out there. I haven't shot any frames with it yet, hopefully will this weekend. It is only slightly shorter than my 200PS. I wish Bronica made it F3.5 instead of the slow f4.5. I don't do much close up work but when I do I use the CUL1 (close-up lens). I use to carry that to weddings for the "hands and rings" shots. I own the 110mm f4 macro, wish I knew of the 110mm f4.5 macro before I bought mine. The f4 is barely 1:4 while the f4.5 is 1:1. There is a f4.5 on EBay now but I think they want $350+. My 135mm f4 PS gets just as close as my 110 f4.
I had a laugh about the remark about the noise the S2 made in church. I shot my first weddings with a S2A, and the thunk from that camera woke everyone who was dozing off in church up. I never had a priest complain but I got looks often. Flash photography was more of an issue in the past, some churches didn't allow it. I'd have to bring the bridal party back in after the ceremony and reshoot what I missed. Most of my shots were taken with the 75mm F2.8 NIkkor PC and 50mm f2.8 Nikkor O. When I switched over to the SQ-A (because of 1/500 flash synch and a brighter finder) I missed my 50mm Nikkor, my 50mm S Zenzanon was not sharp.
Sorry for rambling on, I could talk(type) all day about these wonderful cameras.
 
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yessammassey

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That's one nice thing about my RB67; it can get very close, even with the 90mm lens, thanks to the bellows focusing. I took some pictures of small fish in an aquarium today with it, no problem.

An update on my decision process follows. I looked through a lot of photos on Flickr today. It's not a great way to compare film camera optics, of course.

(Although there is the occasional professional high resolution lab scan... which always serves to remind me that 6x7+ size frames easily hold as much detail -and seemingly more color depth & dynamic range - as the average digital camera image. They're great. 645 and 35mm can be miles apart in detail and precipitable grain, but neither are as entirely smooth as 6x7/8/9. 6x6 is somewhere in between.)

But one thing that looking over a large sample size of digitized MF film images can give you is a fairly realistic idea of contrast and color rendition. I made an effort to ensure I wasn't comparing chromes to negatives, but otherwise this is all subjective opinion. Pentax (67) and Bronica (GS, SQ) are fairly contrasty. Pentax is maybe a little neutral in comparison to Bronica'a saturation, but both types were more saturated than Mamiya. Hasselblad beat Pentax and Bronica for contrast & saturation... the look was almost *too* close to digital when viewed on a monitor, with somewhat cooler colors... It's fantastic when printed, of course. Mamiya (RB67, 6, 7) scans tended to have relatively subdued contrast and dialed-back saturation in comparison to the others.

This is all very touchy-feely, because it's basically impossible to say anything definite, and there are so many factors that can influence how a scan looks. There can also be significant variation even within each system: my Mamiya Sekor-C 90mm is less contrasty & saturated than my newer Mamiya K/L 65mm - both for the RB67.

I bring this up because I'm actually partial to the less contrasty & saturated look. Low-light scenes can start to look kind of cartoonish if contrast and saturation are too strong. So the SQ is no longer at the top of my list.

Still, I liked the images from the GS-1. Very detailed. Maybe even a little less punchy than those from the SQ. (It seems like they were really going for a similar look to Hasselblad with the SQ lenses.)

I was originally thinking that portability and small size were going to win out over a larger format when I set out to get another MF camera, but after looking at so many photos, I really think that 6x7 is the smallest I want to go. Considering that I'm not going to spring for a Mamiya 7 (I'd have to get one of the wide angle lenses, and that basically doubles the price), that leaves the GS-1 as the most portable and automated 6x7 camera. The lens range isn't that large, but the 50 looks good (better than the RB67 50, I think, at least), and all the examples I've seen come with a metered prism, and many with a manual speed grip, all for around half the price of a Mamiya 7 body by itself.
 
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yessammassey

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Oh man. Sweet. That's a great resource.

I've been perusing the gs-1 manual.

From what I've read, it seems like the way to shoot with the mirror up goes something like this..
(Assuming the use of a metered finder and shutter speeds faster than bulb)

Get meter reading and lock exposure.

Flip up mirror.

(Using electronic cable release) trip shutter.

Now, if I want to get another meter reading, I have to flip the mirror back down... And this requires me to either waste a frame or take off the back. Or put the dark slide in? (never mind, I see now that this is only an issue if you advance the film before flipping the mirror back up at the end of the exposure.)

I guess if I could avoid having to take off the back or eating a frame, that's OK. But the SQ has an option for automatic mirror return after firing the shutter with MLU for one frame, right? (Ed - Right)

That may put the SQ back into the running. The GS may be too cumbersome for one of my most common practices.

Ed- But what I still don't understand is how the bulb mode on the shutter speed dial relates to the T mode on the lens.
 
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DWThomas

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Ed- But what I still don't understand is how the bulb mode on the shutter speed dial relates to the T mode on the lens.

'B' is only available on the SQ-Ai -- the manual says:
The shutter stays open as long as the shutter button or cable
release is pressed on "B" (bulb). However, since battery power is
drained during "bulb", time exposures should be made when the
exposure time is longer than one minute.
(All I know about the Ai is what I read.)
 
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