Thank you for a pointer for where to get the battery adapter. Do I need one for each battery or just the one for the bottom battery? There are some marks on the focusing screen, will this affect the image?
All this kind of adapter does is make sure the smaller modern battery stays centered. You can use an bit of cardboard to the same effect, cut a strip and wrap it around the batteries/ into the battery chamber. Usually the spring in a battery compartment is springy enough to make up for the little different in thickness between the different types of batteries, if not you can gently bend it a bit.
I consider changing bags to be the worst thing ever, unless there is absolutely no option.
All this kind of adapter does is make sure the smaller modern battery stays centered. You can use an bit of cardboard to the same effect, cut a strip and wrap it around the batteries/ into the battery chamber. Usually the spring in a battery compartment is springy enough to make up for the little different in thickness between the different types of batteries, if not you can gently bend it a bit.
The cat was shot on Portra 400.
Flowers were shot on Agfa Scala.
If you want to be absolutely blown away, try ortho 25 (it’s 25 iso, so add the price of a tripod and a release cable…)
You can train yourself to load film with an expired roll, I would categorize it as difficult as learning to open a can.
Re. Price of postage: maybe try a local shop and accept that it might take weeks and screw up the scanning - but - do talk to owners of shops, they might have wonderful tips for you, like the fact that they still develop b/w in house etc.
Keezly, the rewards of processing your own film in cost saving, time saving, consistency....... and learning far outweigh any disadvantages. I doubt whether it would cost you even 50 GB £ to get set up.
The cat was shot on Portra 400.
Flowers were shot on Agfa Scala.
If you want to be absolutely blown away, try ortho 25 (it’s 25 iso, so add the price of a tripod and a release cable…)
You can train yourself to load film with an expired roll, I would categorize it as difficult as learning to open a can.
Re. Price of postage: maybe try a local shop and accept that it might take weeks and screw up the scanning - but - do talk to owners of shops, they might have wonderful tips for you, like the fact that they still develop b/w in house etc.
Just looking at the old roll of film that came with the camera and that is 160vc Portra. What does the vc stand for?
VividColor with more saturated color. At that time there was NC, NormalColor, VC, VividColor, and UC, UtraColor. I have a stash of UC in 35mm and 120 that I ran around Los Angeles buying up all that I could to keep the hoarders from getting it. The UC is safely stored in my freezer and some of it will be used in Kauai soon.
Of course, and so obvious now you explain it! Thank you.
Only if you have been around long enough, but if not then one needs to learn the secret handshake.
One other thing related to reading the manual. The lenses for Bronica ETR (and the other modern Bronica SLRs, SQ and GS) all mount/dismount the opposite way from what you expect. They are righty-loosey, not lefty-loosey. Like Nikon SLRs, and unlike nearly all other cameras (with a few exceptions). This is related to the lens cocking mechanism, IMO. Just do it their way and nobody gets hurt.
Yes, that’s the ortho (orthocromatic) I was talking about.
My experience with Kodak film (this really changes from person to person, you need to try for yourself:
- portra 160: quite strange color rendering, but skin tones are perfect. if you are doing portraits, you will get a “modern” or “minimalist” or “neutral” look. I have no use for it.
- portra 400: balanced, saturated. It can warm up winter scenes. In my opinion, it does not render scenes in the southern emisphere well - it should be very nice in the UK, winter or summer.
- gold: as saturated as portra 400, but shifted toward gold, warm tones.It will make your photos “happy”. I load it when I go on vacation and cannot get Fuji film.
- ektar: portra 400 on LSD. Quite unrealistic. Sometimes I use it at the seaside.
My personal preference is Cinestill and Fuji.
I had put the colouring down to the fact that it was taken in a mine, but perhaps it was just the film.
It was the mine.
hankchinaski's observations are probably more subtle than the problems you would see as a result of the sort of lighting you would find in a mine.
FWIW, I much prefer the various Kodak colour emulsions to almost anything I see from Fuji.
Portra 160 in 6x4.5 and interesting light:
View attachment 317632
One other thing related to reading the manual. The lenses for Bronica ETR (and the other modern Bronica SLRs, SQ and GS) all mount/dismount the opposite way from what you expect. They are righty-loosey, not lefty-loosey. Like Nikon SLRs, and unlike nearly all other cameras (with a few exceptions). This is related to the lens cocking mechanism, IMO. Just do it their way and nobody gets hurt.
Just to be clear: these are all professional emulsions and will give wonderful results, but I look for special atmospheres so I make these distinctions.
Plus, when shooting portraits, I usually go straight for b/w film, so my judgement applies more to non-portraits.
This is an example of Fuji Acros, expensive but…
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?