Completely new to medium format - advice please

[hankchinaski]

b/w slides:

 

[hankchinaski]

Medium format negative film playing neck and neck with euro 50k sensors:

 

[reddesert]

One other thing related to reading the manual. The lenses for Bronica ETR (and the other modern Bronica SLRs, SQ and GS) all mount/dismount the opposite way from what you expect. They are righty-loosey, not lefty-loosey. Like Nikon SLRs, and unlike nearly all other cameras (with a few exceptions). This is related to the lens cocking mechanism, IMO. Just do it their way and nobody gets hurt.

 

[Keezly]

Nobody mentioned reading the manual. I strongly suggest reading the manual for the Bronica ETRS before diving in head first. If you don't have it you can get a copy from https://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica.htm

Loading the film is not really difficult if you follow the instructions, but it isn't as simple as loading a 35mm film. The camera needs a 6v battery to operate (PX28 or 4LR44 or equivalent), this battery is in current production and easily available but you may need to buy it online. There are various interlocks that will confuse you if you don't remember them, eg the shutter doesn't fire unless the darkslide is removed. There is a shutter in each of the lenses. The body and lenses need to be cocked to (a) see through the finder, and (b) dismount or mount lens from body.

The shutter doesn't test-fire without film in the camera unless either (1) you take off the film back, or (2) operate the multi-exposure switch (don't forget to put it back). You can wind a roll of backing paper without film through to test the winding and shutter, but you don't have an extra roll of backing paper yet.

Thanks for the link. I am one of those people that learns best visually so sometimes manuals go over my head (and not as I throw them!). A lot of interlocks to remember there. I think I will need to type out a sort of cheat-sheet to remember them all.

 

[Keezly]

This is a good spot to interject our recent exchange regarding this problem:

What Medium Format Cameras Are Members Here Using?

Really? I haven't investigated the Bronica lenses much, but I'd particularly like to get the 50mm working. Thanks for reminding me of this thread - I had planned to find where I've hidden those lenses, now I should be able to remember to do it. I posted how to do it in photo.net a long time...

www.photrio.com

Thanks for the link. I shall had a read of the thread.

 

[Keezly]

I would definitely second the recommendation for reading the manual, it didn’t take me long to get one after I got my ETRSi as it did not come with one, very helpful. Also it is definitely best to learn how to load the film before you try to do that, it is possible to load it backwards and still run it through the camera “taking pictures” and unload it all without knowing that you have not taken a single picture. Or so I have heard

Makes me think of my husband and also a family friend not reading the manual on a chainsaw and wondering why it would not cut: the chain was on the blade the wrong way round!

 

[Keezly]

Hi Keezly

I have this camera and shoot with it occasionally.
I got it second hand a few years ago and it came with the matte screen.
I wear glasses and found this screen to be OK but had the chance to buy the microprism split image screen - this is much better for me. It cost about £25 but now they go for much more as they are scarce. I much prefer this screen as it's easier to get focus.
See attached page from Bronica manual
Also I recommend Fomapan as it's the cheapest in the UK (but not Fomapan Retro 320 ), my choice is Fomapan 200

Thank you for the pointer with the screen: very helpful. And with the film.

 

[Keezly]

Medium format negative film playing neck and neck with euro 50k sensors:

That cat shot is fabulous. What film type is that: I love the colour rendition.

 

[Keezly]

This is golden.

My variations on this:
- no stop bath (ymmv)
- after testing, I think I am halving or 1/3 recommended dose of photoflo (ymmv)

Also golden, trim the edges of film before loading, you will learn to do it in the changing bag.
If you don't buy a changing bag, you will get traces of light on your film, no matter how dark the room seems.
Re. expired film - I went to every store in town and bought all their expired film, and was free to take whatever crazy shot, it was so cheap! Your photos will be anything from horrible to excellent.
Re. slide film - feel free to experiment, a very general rule of thumb is to point at the brightest light on the scene and meter there - only problem, cost of developing color slide film will make you cry...
Re. b/w slide film - yes it exists and it will blow your mind and you can develop it at home, just a little bit more complicated


When in doubt - ask here - you will learn so very much faster. Medium format is the one exception to the rule of photography "the quality of your images is proportional to the cost of the hardware", a well exposed piece of film is equal or better than a 100Mpixel 6x6 sensor, people will not believe it came out of film.

Thank you for all those pointers. I am so grateful for all the help you are all giving.

 

[Keezly]

One other thing related to reading the manual. The lenses for Bronica ETR (and the other modern Bronica SLRs, SQ and GS) all mount/dismount the opposite way from what you expect. They are righty-loosey, not lefty-loosey. Like Nikon SLRs, and unlike nearly all other cameras (with a few exceptions). This is related to the lens cocking mechanism, IMO. Just do it their way and nobody gets hurt.

I was really surprised when I saw that, but again it makes me think of sewing machines where the wheel goes anti-clockwise so I will hopefully find it easy to remember.

 

[Keezly]

The reason is your personal preference. Try all 3 and decide what you like more. You may decide to purchase a slide projector, or scan them, or both. Some people are perfectly happy just looking at MF transparencies on a light table

I remember as a child all of my parents photos were in slide format. I don't recall whether they printed them all out or just a few. It is such a long time ago!

 

[Keezly]

A note about labs…since there has been a “gap” in interest in film, many have sold their film equipment and outsource film work. This means it will take weeks to get film developed and the quality of the scans WILL be bad. If you don’t live in a major city, where a lab with film equipment is, you might be better off sending it to a lab through the mail.

An anecdote…once I was trying my new Bessa R and the fantastic voigtlander 50/1.5 LTM. So I shoot a roll and bring it to my local lab, which gave it back to me in 4 weeks. The photos were very so-so, almost point and shoot level. Out of curiosity, I brought the film to a lab with a noritsu scanner…basically the first lab had spread butter on their scanner…and photos from the nokton were SCREAMING GOOD.

I am very rural and there aren't any places around here so it is definitely a case of sending them off. It is a pain really as everything costs so much more with postage added on to the cost: that roll of film becomes nearly double the cost with postage.

 

[Keezly]

b/w slides:

That chamomile is fabulous! Which film were these taken with?

 

[MattKing]

If you don't buy a changing bag, you will get traces of light on your film, no matter how dark the room seems.

As posted above - ymmv.
I consider changing bags to be the worst thing ever, unless there is absolutely no option.
If you have a room that you can darken by turning the lights off - including anything that illuminates when plugged in or operating - it is far easier to use that to load films on reels.
Sometimes that means scheduling that task for after dark, and then developing the loaded film the next day.

 

[Keezly]

As posted above - ymmv.
I consider changing bags to be the worst thing ever, unless there is absolutely no option.
If you have a room that you can darken by turning the lights off - including anything that illuminates when plugged in or operating - it is far easier to use that to load films on reels.
Sometimes that means scheduling that task for after dark, and then developing the loaded film the next day.

If it is completely dark how do you see what you are doing?

 

[Pieter12]

If it is completely dark how do you see what you are doing?

You don't. You work by feel, put things in a logical order on your work surface and always the same place or order.

 

[Helge]

One trick to loading 120 is to carefully peel the start-of-roll tape off the backing paper and fold it evenly around the film.
That will stiffen the leading edge going into the reel, making loading and the whole travel through the spiral easier.

Also run the tip of a soft pencil around the whole spiral including ball bearing a dozen times.
That will make everything much smoother.

The reel needs to be super dry when loading.

Wash the reel I chlorine and scrub with a soft, clean brush from time to time.

 

[Keezly]

You don't. You work by feel, put things in a logical order on your work surface and always the same place or order.

I bet that is fun the first few times you try!

 

[Keezly]

One trick to loading 120 is to carefully peel the start-of-roll tape off the backing paper and fold it evenly around the film.
That will stiffen the leading edge going into the reel, making loading and the whole travel through the spiral easier.

Also run the tip of a soft pencil around the whole spiral including ball bearing a dozen times.
That will make everything much smoother.

The reel needs to be super dry when loading.

Wash the reel I chlorine and scrub with a soft, clean brush from time to time.

Thank you for the pointers: I get the feeling I going to need them all!

 

[Pieter12]

I bet that is fun the first few times you try!

Not really hard. Try it first with a sacrificial roll, the lights on and your eyes closed. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes easier. Make sure the lid is properly closed (easy with a Paterson tank, harder with a Jobo, don't know about others) so the whole tank assembly is light-tight.

 

[MattKing]

I bet that is fun the first few times you try!

You use some of the same skills and abilities that are used with anything that you do by memory and feel (and sound). If you can touch type, you use similar abilities. Same for playing the piano, (some parts of) driving a car, riding a bike.
Establishing the necessary "muscle memory" requires a bit of patience, but after that it is just a matter of doing it reasonably regularly.
One of the reasons that I don't like changing bags is that they get in the way of the small amount of auditory feedback that I like.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I prefer metal reels since they dry more quickly if you're processing a bunch of film. The Hewes reels are great, but my favourites are the Kinderman 35 and 120 reels for which they made loaders. A breeze to load.

Good to know the main reason to recommend Hewes reels is film loading.

 

[Sirius Glass]

This is golden.

My variations on this:
- no stop bath (ymmv)
- after testing, I think I am halving or 1/3 recommended dose of photoflo (ymmv)

The exact amount of PhotoFlo depends on your local water and it may vary over time. But start with the recommendation.

 

[Sirius Glass]

As posted above - ymmv.
I consider changing bags to be the worst thing ever, unless there is absolutely no option.
If you have a room that you can darken by turning the lights off - including anything that illuminates when plugged in or operating - it is far easier to use that to load films on reels.
Sometimes that means scheduling that task for after dark, and then developing the loaded film the next day.

I use the Changing Room which has plenty of room although a little tight for 4"x5" Grafmatics.

Photoflex Changing Room

Photoflex Changing Room - The Photoflex Changing Room is an upgrade from the traditional dark bag.This double walled, light-tight changing bag includes an internal frame that provides plenty of room to work and an internal, removable "trash bag" for film…

www.freestylephoto.biz

 

[miha]

Good to know the main reason to recommend Hewes reels is film loading.

Kindermann reels can be loaded without the dedicated loader, too.