BradS
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I think some of the "locked up" ones will work if set to the manual 1/90th setting.
Jon
I think you've hit on it - my FE does this when it's out of batteries - but the flash synch is electronic. You need to move the shutter speed knob to M90 and it should release if this is the problem.The FE requires a battery for the shutter to run, except for flash synch and maybe B. I think what you see in most listings is a camera with dead batteries or no batteries. And then the person winds the shutter, and the camera won't fire.
like what Jon says...I think some of the "locked up" ones will work if set to the mechanical 1/90th setting.
Jon
"locked up" - that is, you cannot advance the film and you cannot trip the shutter...
I've killed a couple like that.
Most likely something is broken/bent in the gear/drive train from the film advance lever to the shutter cocking and film transport mechanism.
When these cameras were new (1980s), Nikon warned against running them on the MD 12 motor drives at shutter speeds less than 1/60 for fear of damage to the drive mechanism.
Most likely something is broken/bent in the gear/drive train from the film advance lever to the shutter cocking and film transport mechanism.
When these cameras were new (1980s), Nikon warned against running them on the MD 12 motor drives at shutter speeds less than 1/60 for fear of damage to the drive mechanism.
When these cameras were new (1980s), Nikon warned against running them on the MD 12 motor drives at shutter speeds less than 1/60 for fear of damage to the drive mechanism.
I'll reconsider using it on a regular basis.
Interesting. The guy from whom I bought that particular body was also selling an MD-12...and by the looks of the drive coupling on the bottom of the camera this one saw a lot of use with the motor drive.
Thanks for the info.
My FE's shutter is slow above 1 second. It's close to 2 seconds too slow.
An 09 14 15 thread...
Most hang ups will be
Mechanical logic from grease turned to wax
Electromagnets stalling from grease turned to wax
Battery contacts or wiring corrosion
If you have a local repair person he should fix the fix the first two easily but a replacement may be cheaper you should try cleaning the contacts and putting the batteries in the correct way round first.
I agree "replacement may be cheaper", but I.M.O. if you need a reliable camera that won't let you down you need to have it serviced, replacing it with another thirty year old one that most probably hasn't been serviced either that will probably soon have other faults is just "kicking the can down the road", and in the long run makes no sense.
"Risky and makes no sense" in what respect ?"... even in the short run it is risky and often makes no sense!
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