I use to own a Lambda but now prefer this option of manking a negative and then printing via contact onto any paper or process I want. - Durst Lambda printers are limited to the choice of papers available, but if you are looking for a true black and white print then this would be the way to go.
I see you are in Europe, Picto Paris or Metro in London make silver gelatin prints off digital files with their Durst Lambda. As well a calibrated inkjet negative
can be produced and contacted onto paper.
I use to own a Lambda but now prefer this option of manking a negative and then printing via contact onto any paper or process I want. - Durst Lambda printers are limited to the choice of papers available, but if you are looking for a true black and white print then this would be the way to go.
Bob, Have you overcome the banding problems in printing digital negatives...as several negatives i got from you suffered from that problem.
there is an old saying garbage in garbage out... your work was the only banding issue we had in years.
Whatever you want to believe Bob..... you said yourself it was a printing artifact....& not in the neg scans..,..
I was asking an honest question, since contact printing produces good results from disparate media.
There's always LVT film negatives, though not many suppliers.Bob,
Have you written an article or something on how you craft digital negatives for silver gelatin printing? Though I've made digital negatives for pt/pd printing for many years, I could never seem to get a digital negative to produce a decent silver gelatin print. The biggest issue I had was that I could see the dots; even though I printed the negative on Pictorico on my Epson 3880 at its highest resolution.
digital artifacting manifests itself in many ways, after doing thousands of prints of our own using our original scans and files we happen to know that sometimes banding will happen and in all the cases we have seen its because of digital work done before we get the file.
Bob,
Have you written an article or something on how you craft digital negatives for silver gelatin printing? Though I've made digital negatives for pt/pd printing for many years, I could never seem to get a digital negative to produce a decent silver gelatin print. The biggest issue I had was that I could see the dots; even though I printed the negative on Pictorico on my Epson 3880 at its highest resolution.
There's always LVT film negatives, though not many suppliers.
This is not about @Bob Carnie's negatives, but I have run into this issue as have other printers. One trick Kees Brandenburg mentioned to me not too long ago is to use two identical negatives, one rotated by 90 degrees prior to outputting to the inkjet printer. The result is that the banding is at an angle in both negatives, which results in a much less noticeable cross-hatched pattern that can even go entirely unnoticed.overcome the banding problems in printing digital negatives
Same here, also with the 3880. I've to date not come across any convincing technique or physical example that completely avoids this issue while at the same time maintaining the same kind of excellent fine detail rendering you get with in-camera negatives. The results can be pretty good especially if you keep a certain distance from the print. As such, it's much less of an issue with bigger prints as the viewing distance will be larger anyway, so you can (sort of, within certain limits) get away with some imperfections.Though I've made digital negatives for pt/pd printing for many years, I could never seem to get a digital negative to produce a decent silver gelatin print. The biggest issue I had was that I could see the dots; even though I printed the negative on Pictorico on my Epson 3880 at its highest resolution.
Inspection of the prints under high magnification will show a 'digital pixel pattern', but this should be entirely invisible to the naked eye, even at close distance, so it's arguably irrelevant.
That's what I'm explicitly referring to.I've never inspected those prints under a loupe
Scans have nothing to do with this, sorry.If there is a pixel pattern on print on these machines, then most likely the scan wasn't very good.
I doubt that this is what you'd want. There are print-on-demand inkjet presses that are pure monochromatic, but the print quality of these is generally pretty poor. Btw, also the 'full color' CMYK inkjet presses for stuff like Amazon's POD books don't yield acceptable (for our purposes) photo quality. It basically looks like you've rattled off your photos on a 1990s HP DeskJet printer.almost all labs that offer that service (including book binding) do not use dedicated monochromatic inkjet printers.
Saal uses chromogenic color for their lay-flat books. This is a decent way of making color or monochrome books at reasonable cost, but it's far from ideal for various reasons, especially for monochrome work. As you imply in the quote above, the main issue is that color chromogenic paper just isn't a monochromatic medium. It renders color by mixing CMY in a balanced way. With proper calibration, you can get really, really close to neutral - and of course get any toning you like by shifting any of the channels away from neutral. Other issues with this approach are the inherent tendency towards mottling of blacks or solid dark hues, and the limited range of surface finishes which =ranges from a silk-like gloss to a 'plastic' sheen - ultimately, it's all RC paper, so you're never going to get anything resembling either a true flat matte finish or the subtly textured finish of a baryta print.their use of RGB printers
For a one-off book or a small edition, at this point in time you're probably better off with an inkjet option that offers decent print quality. But it'll be somewhat specialized, since demand is mostly for full color prints, so that's where all the investments are.
This is not about @Bob Carnie's negatives, but I have run into this issue as have other printers. One trick Kees Brandenburg mentioned to me not too long ago is to use two identical negatives, one rotated by 90 degrees prior to outputting to the inkjet printer. The result is that the banding is at an angle in both negatives, which results in a much less noticeable cross-hatched pattern that can even go entirely unnoticed.
Same here, also with the 3880. I've to date not come across any convincing technique or physical example that completely avoids this issue while at the same time maintaining the same kind of excellent fine detail rendering you get with in-camera negatives. The results can be pretty good especially if you keep a certain distance from the print. As such, it's much less of an issue with bigger prints as the viewing distance will be larger anyway, so you can (sort of, within certain limits) get away with some imperfections.
Imagesetter negatives have better potential, but sadly, they're a bit of a dead-end street with this technology being very firmly on its way out.
For a truly high quality B&W silver halide output I think the option offered by @dokko is really the way to go. Inspection of the prints under high magnification will show a 'digital pixel pattern', but this should be entirely invisible to the naked eye, even at close distance, so it's arguably irrelevant.
For a book specifically, no, I'm afraid not.Would you have any recommendations (Europe based)?
Yes, this can help. Which brings the issue of images printed from multiple halftone negatives, which usually involves different screen angles or screen types to avoid interference issues.So a trick we have done to fix these files that when separated -create banding and or artifacts, -Very Old School trick.. we add noise to the whole image basically turning it into a stochastic image which seems to remove banding and artifacts IN MOST CASES NOT ALL.
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