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Come on you curly (/&% Tri-X film

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nworth

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The current Kodak film base seems to shed dust very well, but it also seems to curl very badly. I have the same problems described above. The humidity h ere seldom gets above 50%, and indoor humidity during the winter can be very low. Kodak films are often too curly to scan properly. (120 is a lot better than 35mm.) Loading onto development reels is a very trying thing. I thought it was just me, but now I see others are having the same problems.
 

Turbobuddha

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I've noticed my tmax curling real bad in 120. I'll shoot a roll of Delta and a roll of tmax and the Delta comes out flat the tmax curls into straws. I can barely scan them. All shot and dev'd at the same time.
 

kreeger

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Nobody suggested it yet, so I will.

Why not just switch to the Stainless Steel reel and tank setup. As Tom B was saying, they are just not a problem to load film in any condition, any time.

The plastic reels are false economy when you look at what film costs, what your petrol costs for your vehicle, your time, etc... Costs are soon recovered with consistency and predictable results. I learned how to load the 35mm and 120 reels when I was in my teens.

Buy used ones on Ebay - they last a lifetime with very basic care.
 
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hdeyong

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Is this too simple to add?
I always do a Michael Jackson and wear one cotton glove, (on my right hand because I'm right-handed). At times when the film won't co-operate and I have to fu...fool around with it for a while, it's always a soft cotton glove handling it. The bare hand deals with the reel while the gloved hand coaxes the film. Never any damage to the film, even after a 15 or 20 minute battle. When it starts getting at all dirty, I throw it away. They're cheap on eBay.
 

Simon R Galley

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Cold + Dry = Curl : Warm + Wet = Curl ( but not as bad ).

Simon. ILFORD photo / HARMAN tcehnology Limited :
 

MartinP

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Both steel and plastic reels have zillions of successful users, so there is only personal preference at work in the choice. Every now and then, plastic reels can be soaked, scrubbed with a nail brush and dried because if there is a consistent problem it is likely to be due to some crud dried on somewhere - prevention is better than cure. Plastic reels need to be bone dry and if steel reels are used wet (ie. mostly dry but with an occasional drip) then the film might want a pre-soak to avoid wet patches of emulsion showing up overdeveloped when the dev time is short.

A steel reel can theoretically be dunked in almost boiling water to heat up, then rely on the absorbed heat to dry the reel off for re-use -- on the other hand, plastic reels are much cheaper than steel (so you can have two rather than one), more robust (no invisible bending when dropped, meaning also that second-hand ones are more reliable) and dry out quickly in film drying cabinets. It's choosing between the swings and the roundabouts.

In low humidity locations, will a humidifier in the (pseudo-)darkroom help with the curling of the emulsions before loading? The O.P. was talking about curl but I'm not clear which direction he meant, along the film where it has been rolled up or across the film due to contraction of the emulsion in a dry environment.

For hanging the processed film to dry I use the well known tip of drying in the shower, after steaming up the air to raise the humidity. When it eventually dries out the film has much less curl like this, in both directions. If necessary, the neg sheets then go under some large photo-books. Unfortunately there seems to be no photo-quality osmosis effect from the Salgado book to my negs - maybe I should use a paperback edition instead of hardback?
 

Noble

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Is this too simple to add?
I always do a Michael Jackson and wear one cotton glove, (on my right hand because I'm right-handed). At times when the film won't co-operate and I have to fu...fool around with it for a while, it's always a soft cotton glove handling it. The bare hand deals with the reel while the gloved hand coaxes the film. Never any damage to the film, even after a 15 or 20 minute battle. When it starts getting at all dirty, I throw it away. They're cheap on eBay.


Well with Acros specifically the problem seems to be bending the emulsion too much causing dents. It's not a matter of mechanical damage from rough skin or nails. The damage doesn't happen where my hands are touching the film. It happens in the middle of the frame. With steel reels you have to purposely fold and bend the film to some degree to get it onto the reel. Interestingly I don't seem to have this problem with emulsions with a thinner base. I guess they are less stiff and not as inclined to permanently maintain inadvertent kinks.
 

Sirius Glass

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I have problems with Acros curling a lot.
 

StoneNYC

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Hey guys, I know I've mentioned this before so sorry those that have seen it already, the samigon plastic reels have a different design then the Paterson/JOBO ones, the samigon has this tongue that sticks out on both sides, makes it REALLY easy to load 120 film.

Also, I always bend the tip back (sounds wrong), as in just the first 1cm I bend it because often it's just curled too much and pops out of the track.

Also keep pressure between the two reels as you first start twisting the plastic reel, again just helps curly film stay in the track. Just did some plus-x tonight, those samigon's are way better...IMHO


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Helinophoto

Helinophoto

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SonrNYC, I've seen those reels here and there as of late, are they some sort of new design?
- Can't seem to remember seeing them before at least.

The O.P. was talking about curl but I'm not clear which direction he meant, along the film where it has been rolled up or across the film due to contraction of the emulsion in a dry environment.

It was curling, as though it wanted to get back onto the original negative take-up spool.
Indeed, up here (when this situation occurred) it is very dry and cold (During winter, I actually need to use body lotion after showers, because my skin dries out).

Simon clarified nicely the reason why I got the immense curl I got with my film that day, so maybe your humidity suggestion isn't so far fetched. :smile:
 

Steve Smith

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the samigon has this tongue that sticks out on both sides, makes it REALLY easy to load 120 film.

As does the Kaiser reel (also makes 35mm easy to load).

k4298-500x500.jpg

Steve.
 

MattKing

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The Samigon/AP/Kaiser/Arista Premium et al reels with the wider flange are sold under a number of different names. They are designed to fit into the Patterson tanks, so probably wouldn't work in a JOBO tank.
 

Steve Smith

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They are designed to fit into the Patterson tanks.

I didn't know that. I always use mine with the Kaiser tank they came with.


Steve.
 
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I didn't know that. I always use mine with the Kaiser tank they came with.


Steve.

:smile:

I used those Kaiser reels too before I got into stainless, and in my opinion they were by far the easiest plastic reels to load.
 

seezee

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Ran across this thread after fighting with some very old Plus-X Pan & a Paterson tank (the kind with the ball bearing reels) & realized my trouble was the humidity. My utility has a peak pricing program in the summer months & my smart meter shuts down the AC from 2 PM to 7 PM most days. So the temperature indoors was around 82º F and the humidity quite high. Once the AC kicked back on I was able to load the film.
 
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