Color printing questions

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raucousimages

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I have not done my own color printing for 30 years, my darkroom has been strictly B&W. My kids are interested in trying it but I am not up to date on the latest paper and chemistry. The last time I printed color I used Kodak paper and the old Beseler two step chemistry. I still have my Beseler tubes and motor base and my Color Canoe trays.

What do you suggest in the way of paper and chems for my kids to use for the tubes or trays. I am not going to buy a processor.

Thanks
 

srs5694

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AFAIK, only Kodak and Fuji still make RA-4 paper, and choices in surfaces and contrast are very limited compared to what they used to be. Rumor has it that the Kodak paper handles both Kodak and Fuji films quite well, but that the Fuji paper handles Fuji film better than it handles Kodak film. I can't verify this from personal experience, though. I've not been following it all that closely, but I believe Fuji's been mucking with their papers to make them better for digital machine processing, with the result that new products introduce serious filtration changes for conventional darkroom work. This might be an issue if you only buy a box every few months.

As far as chemistry is concerned, I personally use a mix-it-yourself formula, but there are still a number of commercial ready-made options, including Kodak, Fuji, and a few more hobbyist-oriented kits. The only real "gotcha" I know of is that RA-4 is intended to use the CD-3 developing agent, but one or two hobbyist-oriented kits are built using CD-4 instead. PE has warned that this can result in off colors and reduced longevity, so I'd look into this and be sure that whatever you buy uses CD-3 rather than CD-4. (The agent is probably listed on the MSDS and/or on the box itself.) Some "room temperature" kits exist, but they tend to be more expensive than more conventional products, and the conventional products can be used at room temperature, too, just with extended development time (on the order of 2:30 or 3:00 rather than ~1:00). (FWIW, the mix-it-yourself formula I use specifies both conventional and room-temperature versions; the RT version just adds 5g of potassium hydroxide per liter of working developer. I don't know if this would have the desired effect with a commercial kit, if you should want to reduce the development time.)
 

Mike Wilde

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tubes, and Kodak RA-RT chemistry get my vote. RA-RT can be made to work well at 75F (see PE's posts on the issue), and so tubes with a warm pre-wet and rinses easily fit the bill.
Plus standing in the absolute dark is not my idea of fun, and the chems are nasty on your skin, when you need to go fishing after the tongs fail to be able to pick the paper off of the bottom of the tray etc.
 

ricksplace

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Like you, I had about 30+ years under my belt before I tried colour. I have been doing colour for about a year now and I'm having a blast. Rotary tube, RA4 chems and Kodak paper, and a dichro head on your enlarger, and you're all set. I asked at the local pro lab if I could buy some of their chems when I started. They agreed, so I bought Kodak Developer/replenisher LORR and LORR Blix. I work at room temp (70F), with a higher dilution and longer developer time than would be normal for minilabs, with the blix at the recommended dilution for an extended time due to the lower temp. The results are great, and repeatable. Easier than B&W. You can use a safelight. Mine is so dim that it takes my old eyes almost 3 minutes to fully adjust. Even then, it's only enough light so you don't bump into anything, and you can tell which side of the paper is up. Make sure you get the proper kind of safelight, and minimize the exposure time under the safelight.
 

nickandre

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I use kodak chemistry in trays at whatever temperature my laundry room happens to be at. No problems so far. I've tried both the Fuji and Kodak papers. I'm getting weird things happening sometimes with the Fuji paper. I would go with Kodak Endura. It requires more filtration than the Fuji paper.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) an article I wrote on my method.
 
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