Color filters for the Swiss Alps

[FerruB]

Hello,

In a couple of weeks I will be hiking in the Swiss alps (about 2000-2500 meters) and making some landscape work. To reduce sky haze, get higher values of the foliage, increase contrast between sky and clouds I would like to get a couple of color filters. I am not expecting a lot of snow, just grey rocks, trees and grass.

Then I checked the prices for Hoya color filters 77mm, I agree top-quality, however I prefer to pay more for quality than less for quantity...so now I can get only 1 maximum 2 filters

The choices are, from Hoya (http://www.hoyafilter.com/hoya/products/coloredfilters/):

- X0 Yellow-Green
- Y2 Pro (i.e. #12 deep yellow minus blue)
- YA3 Pro (i.e. #22 deep orange)
- R1 Pro (i.e. #24 red)

What would be your best bet if you have to choose only one filter from the above selection?
Cheers,

Ferru

 

[macfred]

If I have to choose I would go with the Y2Pro (filter factor 2x = +1 stop).

 

[jeffreyg]

I'm not sure what the mounts for the Hoya filters are but the Heliopan and B+W have brass bases which in the long run will serve you much better than aluminum that is used in less costly brands. Plus 1 for the Y2 and for more dramatic sky effects orange.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[FerruB]

Thank you guys, I think I will go for the Y2Pro.

Nothing against Heliopan and B+W, I have already a couple of Hoya filters and I really like them so I will stick with them. Sure are not the cheapest...for a Y2Pro 77mm I will pay 130£!

(To be precise the Y2Pro doesn't match the Wratten #12, the curve looks more like the #8, cutting around 470nm.)

 

[pentaxuser]

. Sure are not the cheapest...for a Y2Pro 77mm I will pay 130£!

Have I got this correct? This is £130 i.e. 130 GBP

pentaxuser

 

[Paul Howell]

A number of years ago, before digital, an American Photo Mag, Popular Photography did a test of Cokin, Lee resin and glass filters, no loss of resolution, no loss of quality. I shoot with both resin and glass filters, sometime both at the same time such as a glass yellow or light orange and a graded Cokin ND filter. Not sure if I could spend almost $200 US for a filter. On the other hand, having the best is best.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I would take all the filters, after all they are small and light, and use these three to start; Y2 Pro (i.e. #12 deep yellow minus blue), YA3 Pro (i.e. #22 deep orange) and R1 Pro (i.e. #24 red).

 

[Photo Engineer]

You should consider a UV filter as well.

PE

 

[Sirius Glass]

Yep.

 

[FerruB]

Ahahaha yes guys, if I could buy all of them I will follow your "valuable" advices

 

[destroya]

my most used filter is the hoya orange G filter, which is actually a dark yellow filter, or the cheaper version of the yellow filter you mentioned. gives nice contrast in the sky with clouds but wont make foliage turn black.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Ahahaha yes guys, if I could buy all of them I will follow your "valuable" advices

I did not even mention getting a polarizing filter yet.

 

[Arklatexian]

I did not even mention getting a polarizing filter yet.

I've not been in the Alps and I do have a question for those of you who have. Is the haze in the Alps water haze or ultraviolet haze? If it is water haze, I would spend the money and yes, buy a polarizing filter. If it is ultraviolet haze a clear glass filter would work. The glass in your "color" filters will also filter the UV haze for those shots....Regards!

 

[FerruB]

my most used filter is the hoya orange G filter, which is actually a dark yellow filter, or the cheaper version of the yellow filter you mentioned. gives nice contrast in the sky with clouds but wont make foliage turn black.

Thanks, apparently the G filter from hoya is discontinued and I can't find it in the right diameter. I would like to increase slightly the values of the foliage...that's why I was considering the yellow-green filter which by the way is the cheaper...so maybe I will get the combo Y2 + X0...

Up there I guess the haze is mostly from UV/blue scattering, the air is cold, clean and dry. A polarizing filter will have a limited effect and with a relatively wide lens will not be uniform.

Cheers,
Ferru

 

[destroya]

Thanks, apparently the G filter from hoya is discontinued and I can't find it in the right diameter. I would like to increase slightly the values of the foliage...that's why I was considering the yellow-green filter which by the way is the cheaper...so maybe I will get the combo Y2 + X0...

Up there I guess the haze is mostly from UV/blue scattering, the air is cold, clean and dry. A polarizing filter will have a limited effect and with a relatively wide lens will not be uniform.

Cheers,
Ferru

if you want to increase foilage as well as add contrast to the sky, my landscape solution is/was to use the rollei retro 80s/400s films. having the extra red sensitivity allows me to use a dark yellow or orange or red filter to darken the skies and not black out foliage. it really does make a difference in how trees are exposed on the film.

I found an new old stock Hoya G filter in 77mm size on ebay for $25 us shipped, so if thats the one you like, check them out

 

[FerruB]

I found an new old stock Hoya G filter in 77mm size on ebay for $25 us shipped, so if thats the one you like, check them out

Amazing! Just got it for 25 quids, thank you!

if you want to increase foilage as well as add contrast to the sky, my landscape solution is/was to use the rollei retro 80s/400s films. having the extra red sensitivity allows me to use a dark yellow or orange or red filter to darken the skies and not black out foliage. it really does make a difference in how trees are exposed on the film.

Good idea! I actually have a bunch of 120 rolls of rollei retro in the freezer, not sure if 80s or 400s. I tried it long time ago but I never nailed this film properly. I will definitely give an other try.

 

[pentaxuser]

Glad you got it for £25. For £130 I'd have wanted the filter and the holiday

pentaxuser

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thanks, apparently the G filter from hoya is discontinued and I can't find it in the right diameter. I would like to increase slightly the values of the foliage...that's why I was considering the yellow-green filter which by the way is the cheaper...so maybe I will get the combo Y2 + X0...

Up there I guess the haze is mostly from UV/blue scattering, the air is cold, clean and dry. A polarizing filter will have a limited effect and with a relatively wide lens will not be uniform.

Cheers,
Ferru

A polarizing filter will have a limited effect and with a relatively wide lens will not be uniform. That is something of which we need to be aware.

 

[silveror0]

Be aware that filter factors normally apply at sea level under daylight conditions and the yellow-ish filters can have a stronger effect at higher elevations; also the factor may lessen under warmer-than-daylight conditions (e.g., sunrise/sunset). The point is that you'd be wise to bracket exposures for the really special photos. FWIW as a guide, Kodak Publication F-5 indicates Wratten daylight factors shown below with Tungsten factors in parenthesis:
Polarizer: 4 (4)
#8 Yellow K2: 2 (1.5)
#11 Yellow-Green X1: 4 (4)
#12 Yellow Minus Blue: 2 (1.5)
#15 Deep Yellow G: 2.5 (2)
#25 Red A: 8 (5)

 

[FerruB]

Be aware that filter factors normally apply at sea level under daylight conditions and the yellow-ish filters can have a stronger effect at higher elevations; also the factor may lessen under warmer-than-daylight conditions (e.g., sunrise/sunset). The point is that you'd be wise to bracket exposures for the really special photos. FWIW as a guide, Kodak Publication F-5 indicates Wratten daylight factors shown below with Tungsten factors in parenthesis:
Polarizer: 4 (4)
#8 Yellow K2: 2 (1.5)
#11 Yellow-Green X1: 4 (4)
#12 Yellow Minus Blue: 2 (1.5)
#15 Deep Yellow G: 2.5 (2)
#25 Red A: 8 (5)

Thanks silveror0, I will keep that in mind. Just to be sure what you report up here are the stops to add not the filter factors, right?

With a color filter I will first determine the exposure without the filter and after apply the filer + relative filter factor to the exposure, is it correct? I usually meter using the spotmeter of the camera (Pentax 67 AE prism) applying a rudimentary zone system by placing first the shadows around zone II or III and then quickly check the high values if they are not lost completely.

Cheers,
Ferru

PS>just received the HOYA G filter, looks very good

 

[silveror0]

Thanks silveror0, I will keep that in mind. Just to be sure what you report up here are the stops to add not the filter factors, right?

With a color filter I will first determine the exposure without the filter and after apply the filer + relative filter factor to the exposure, is it correct? I usually meter using the spotmeter of the camera (Pentax 67 AE prism) applying a rudimentary zone system by placing first the shadows around zone II or III and then quickly check the high values if they are not lost completely.

Cheers,
Ferru

PS>just received the HOYA G filter, looks very good

To clarify, all my exposure corrections given are FACTORS; you would multiply the unfiltered exposure time by these values. Factors are always multipliers, whereas STOPS are always added. Some folks prefer to use stops, others prefer factors. Filter manufacturers often engrave the daylight factor on the filter's ring (e.g., 4X or x4), so it's best to use those values as a starting point. As stated, the values in parentheses are factors suggested for light conditions that are warmer than daylight, such as sunrise/sunset. Remember, anytime you combine filters their factors are multiplied; their stops are added. Here are the equivalent stops for the factors I've stated:

1.5X = 1/2 stop
2X = 1 stop
2.5X = 1-1/3 stop
4X = 2 stops
5X = 2-1/3 stops
8X = 3 stops

Also, if you combine a polarizer with other filter(s), make sure the polarizer is in the outermost position (i.e., the first filter the light passes through).

Enjoy your trip.

 

[Sirius Glass]

1.5X = 1/2 stop
2X = 1 stop
2.5X = 1-1/3 stop
4X = 2 stops
5X = 2-1/3 stops
8X = 3 stops

Note that the factors, 1.5, 2, 4, 5, 8 are all the result of the number of stops to the power of 2 ==> 2f/stop = ?X. Also the factors can be multipled by the shutter speed before the filter calculation to get the filtered shutter speed.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Thank you guys, I think I will go for the Y2Pro.

Nothing against Heliopan and B+W, I have already a couple of Hoya filters and I really like them so I will stick with them. Sure are not the cheapest...for a Y2Pro 77mm I will pay 130£!

(To be precise the Y2Pro doesn't match the Wratten #12, the curve looks more like the #8, cutting around 470nm.)

It's just money;your last shirt won't have any pockets!

 

[MattKing]

1.5X = 1/2 stop
2X = 1 stop
2.5X = 1-1/3 stop
4X = 2 stops
5X = 2-1/3 stops
8X = 3 stops

At the risk of severe pedantry, 1.414X = 1/2 stop - it is the square root of 2.
The 2X, 4X and 8X equivalencies are correct.

 

[Arklatexian]

Thanks, apparently the G filter from hoya is discontinued and I can't find it in the right diameter. I would like to increase slightly the values of the foliage...that's why I was considering the yellow-green filter which by the way is the cheaper...so maybe I will get the combo Y2 + X0...

Up there I guess the haze is mostly from UV/blue scattering, the air is cold, clean and dry. A polarizing filter will have a limited effect and with a relatively wide lens will not be uniform.

Cheers,
Ferru

As I said earlier, if it is UV haze, there is probably no need for a polarizing filter. Window glass would probably filter the UV. Where I live in the flat lands of Louisiana, most all of our haze is water haze and to filter it requires a polarizer. There is so little UV at and near sea level that glass filters just won't do the job. Remember, we are talking about haze here.,.....Regards!