It is possible to make a color enlarger using lasers. I think, in principle, that "should work".
Using 3 lasers:
The exposure and density will be controlled by the time the lasers emit light. It is an additive process.
- Blue: ~450 nm
- Green: ~530 nm
- Red: ~640–660 nm
The light before reaching the color negative should hit a diffuser for make the light even. Also, the lens of the laser should make a wider cone.
One problem that I found is the speckle. So, to avoid the granularity is using 3 o more lasers from every color to reduce that effect.
What do you think?
The light before reaching the color negative should hit a diffuser for make the light even. Also, the lens of the laser should make a wider cone.
So you don't use lasers to begin with, as it just makes things unnecessarily complex, and exposures will be slow. Instead you use LEDs. Plenty of people have built LED light sources for enlargers by now. Mostly for variable contrast B&W, some for color. I've done the latter; I've built several versions and I've been using RGB LED exposure for both b&w and color printing for several years now.
I know how it feels! I'm looking forward to seeing the results of your experiments. If you are bent on using lasers, you will indeed need to diverge the beam in order to cover the full image area. Diffusion would be an obvious route, and the easiest solution is likely to have two diffusors with some distance between them. You'll have to grapple with the problem of very low efficiency/light yield and difficulty focusing and very long exposure times esp. for B&W paper. It's a very sub-optimal setup that combines the drawbacks of diffusion with the drawbacks of lasers. A bit like taking a Tesla and hitching a donkey in front of it to pull it.I am very stubborn
I am very stubborn
It is possible to make a color enlarger using lasers. I think, in principle, that "should work".
Using 3 lasers:
The exposure and density will be controlled by the time the lasers emit light. It is an additive process.
- Blue: ~450 nm
- Green: ~530 nm
- Red: ~640–660 nm
The light before reaching the color negative should hit a diffuser for make the light even. Also, the lens of the laser should make a wider cone.
One problem that I found is the speckle. So, to avoid the granularity is using 3 o more lasers from every color to reduce that effect.
What do you think?
Yup. This will also show that the listed 530nm for green is not optimal (but...). I have demonstrated this empirically as well and have freely published the results on my blog. In practice, however, you can make very decent prints even with the 'wrong' green wavelength as the penalty in terms of hue purity is limited and will only manifest strongly in extreme conditions. This is about printing color on RA4 paper; for B&W the story is different and much less critical to begin with.Check the spectral sensitivity of the paper.
In principle it should work. The challenge will be divergence/diffusion / long exposure times. Check the spectral sensitivity of the paper.
One plus is calling it additive will make more sense than usual.
on the lambda we printed at 400 ppi and the three beams of light channeled through a prism system to direct the light at the paper, the machine ran two speeds 200 ppi and 400 ppi , I prefered the slower 400 speed as the resolution of final silver print looked crisper. to expose a 30 x 40 inch print at 400 ppi it would take about 5 min if I remember, we would cut the paper and then hand process like an enlarger print.
I am very stubborn
This is incorrect.There are two basic categories of photo paper laser printers.
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