Color enlarger (darkroom newbie)

[brbo]

So, after many years I finally decided that I would also like to get prints from the negatives.

Can you advise me on what (make/model) to get to get me started? I'll be doing color prints 95% of the time, so it has to be good for color work. For the size, MF would be preferable, but I could live with only 35mm while learning the stuff and also won't be printing big.

What do I have to pay attention to? I'm from Europe and would like to get a cheap way into RA4 printing. Cheap, yes, but willing to pay more if cheap means that I'll struggle (more than necessary) getting good color balanced prints.

Thanks!

 

[Paul Howell]

For 35mm a Meopta or Durst with a color head. Both made many different models, I advise that you do a little research and find a later model with a better chance the filters have not faded. I have a Meopta Opums III without color head, works well up to 11X14, their enlarging lens are also very good. Another feature I like it has focus confirmation feature that works really well. In the past I had a Durst 600 with a color head, good enlarger, but the filter had faded and I had trouble finding a replacement head then the gears on the column that raise and lower the head stripped out.

In terms of cheap, get a unit without a color head but has a filter drawer and print with a set of color filters. I print with my Omega D3 and color filter, not as easy as a color head, would not call it a struggle. As a matter of fact I have just ordered R4 paper, chemistry, and inversion heater, I already have a motor base and color drums, will be printing this summer.

 

[Bob Carnie]

If you can find a Kodak K16 in good working order I would use this, otherwise You can use a Jobo rotary for print development . andy decent enlarger with colour head will work.

 

[RPC]

The cheapest and for me the best way is to process prints is in trays. Lower cost and quicker than drums or processors. Like b&w printing, it can be done at 68F or thereabouts. There is faster feedback when learning to color balance.

 

[brbo]

I have a Jobo that I use for film developing, but also have a large drum for prints, so at least I have that covered.

So you can't know about the state of the color filters until you print? Any way to replace them or I would need to get another color head?

 

[Martin Rickards]

The Meopta enlargers are cheap and plentiful. Mine is an Opemus 6 with colour head and will print up to 6x6. It's more rugged than sophisticated, but it does the job well. I'm not too happy working in complete darkness and for that reason prefer drum development.

 

[koraks]

You sometimes find cannibalized heads with the filters still in, but it's a one in a million chance. I'd look for a somewhat more recent Durst; m305 for 35mm or m605 for up to 6x6. I've had both (still have the m605 and use it a lot); they're great. Make sure the nylon gears on the column are all there; that's the main weak spot.

I find room temp tray development with RA4 much more convenient than Jobo/drum development but YMMV.

 

[RPC]

So you can't know about the state of the color filters until you print? Any way to replace them or I would need to get another color head?

The vast majority of colorheads use dichroic filters that shouldn't fade. Filters for use in filter drawers can fade, so if buying used, beware.

 

[brbo]

Thanks! Will look around for Meopta in Durst. There is one local to me Axomat 5 with Color 3 head. Axomat 5 is 35mm only and no split focusing, but should be adequate for first steps, right?

What about light source, is there a problem with replacement bulbs?

 

[pentaxuser]

As you are in Europe, could this be the U.K. part of Europe? I'd check out a company called Secondhand Darkroom Supplies(SDS). It's based in Oxfordshire so may even be within travelling distance for you. It has a range of good secondhand enlargers and don't hold me to this but I think each one comes with a 6 months guarantee. Not as cheap as e-bay perhaps but nowhere near as risky either.

pentaxuser

 

[brbo]

I'm from Slovenia, so it will have to be something within driving distance (or eBay, although I suspect that sellers on eBay would also like personal pickup or charge a lot for shipping).

 

[Paul Howell]

The 5, will work, my Meopta uses a standard 75 watt enlarger bulb. but my guess is the color head for the 5 will use a halogen bulb, see if you find the manual on line it will tell you what bulb it takes. When I had my Durst I had to change out the light source from the halogen that came with the enlarger to one that I could get locally, I had a lamp shop do it, did not cost too much. Turned out to be a wast of money, within the year it stripped out the gears. Oh, and I had both heads, condenser and color, I prefered condenser for b&W 35mm. .

 

[Martin Rickards]

Thanks! Will look around for Meopta in Durst. There is one local to me Axomat 5 with Color 3 head. Axomat 5 is 35mm only and no split focusing, but should be adequate for first steps, right?

What about light source, is there a problem with replacement bulbs?

I use the Osram Xenophot 64627 HLX EFPGZ6.35 12 V 100 W. There shouldn't be any problem.

 

[Bob Carnie]

too bad you were not in Canada I have a bunch of enlargers I am getting rid of..pick up only

 

[wiltw]

Caution: the term 'color head' in lower priced heads often means that the head is designed with an integral drawer into which can insert the appropriate color filters into the light path as needed (i.e. place acetate or gelatin filters with different density value for Cyan, Magenta, or Yellow).

In order to get a head which has the color filters themselves integral within the housing will often necessitate the search for a 'dichroic' head.

A number of 'color heads' may have the filtration integral within the head (i.e. not added filters in a slide-out drawer) but do not have the term 'dichroic' in their name...e.g. the 4x5" Beseler Universal Color head.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Used color enlargers are now so cheap or downright free that you might as well look for a good solid 4x5 unit with a decent modern colorhead. Color printing without a real colorhead is a big chore, and you'll lose a lot of money with wasted paper. RA4 printing and developing is fairly easyt and relatively inexpensive; but there will still be a significant learning curve, so you want dependable equipment.

 

[AgX]

What about light source, is there a problem with replacement bulbs?

Mains voltage rose in Europe. Lamps will burn through prematurely. Seen the rather short time you will use them this may not be a serious problem. In theory light temperature would be a problem too.

 

[AgX]

In the past I had a Durst 600 with a color head, good enlarger, but the filter had faded.

I repeatedly read such at Apug.

However, glass filters coloured in their mass or with dichroitic coating do not fade.

What could happen is the splitting off of the dichroitic coating. I have seen such at halogen reflector-bulbs with the IR filter layer coming off. These though are different uses and would be obvious at inspection too.

The deteriorating of the reflector of an enlarger lamp may have effect though.

 

[koraks]

Used color enlargers are now so cheap or downright free that you might as well look for a good solid 4x5 unit with a decent modern colorhead.

In Europe, depending a bit on where you are exactly, 4x5 enlargers are perhaps a little less plentiful and a decent one with a color head will often fetch > €600 on the second hand market. That may or may not be a bit more than OP intends to spend.
Of course, there is the occasional bargain. Those generally require time, a good network and a decent dose of good fortune.

 

[John51]

Start with mf if you want to print mf. A 6x7 enlarger is likely to be newer than a 6x6. If you might fancy printing 4x5 one day, best to wait until that day imo. In Europe 4x5 enlargers are either spendy or crap. Why buy what you might never use?

Do not anything buy that needs xyz to change format unless xyz comes with it. There is a good chance that you won't find xyz. I have a Fujimoto 6x7 that only came with a 35mm neg carrier. 6x7 carriers are like hens teeth for that model. nbd, I'll make a carrier. Never got around to it and a cheap Durst Modular turned up. Fujimoto now lying idle.

With Durst, the xyz bits can be neg carriers although many have a universal carrier. Mixing boxes for colour heads, they differ according to format. (The Modular has a built in switchable mixing box.) Lens boards, some have different outer diameters depending on model and different shapes depending on focal length used. To add to the excitement, they have weird names specially designed to confuse you.

It's worth paying a bit extra if it comes with the original packing. Makes it a lot easier to ship and also hints at it being used less.

 

[brbo]

I can get a Meopta Axomat 5 + Color 3 head for 40 EUR locally (well, still 2h drive). I do shoot everything up to 4x5, but I'm thinking for learning the process spending 40 EUR on equipment is not that bad even if I someday outgrow this kit?

 

[Paul Howell]

I normally have a 2 enlargers set up, A 4X5 and either a very old 6X9 or Axomat 6, reason is that I can work on two negatives during the same printing session. While a FB test is washing and drying I can move on another negative. So, if you get a 4X5 enlarger later you can always sell the Axomat 5 or if you have the room use both.

 

[brbo]

Got the Meopta Axomat 5 with Color 3 head for 20 EUR, but the lens that came with it (Schneider-Kreuznach Componar 50/4.5) is missing the aperture diaphragm and the power supply doesn't work (it's a 3rd party Relco ICE.1 105 PFS).

Can anyone suggest a cheap M39 (I think that is the lens board that came with the Axomat 5) lens and a power supply? Or do I just buy the same power supply? What about the timers, any cheap generic timers that one can get with no displays and lights?

 

[Martin Rickards]

Got the Meopta Axomat 5 with Color 3 head for 20 EUR, but the lens that came with it (Schneider-Kreuznach Componar 50/4.5) is missing the aperture diaphragm and the power supply doesn't work (it's a 3rd party Relco ICE.1 105 PFS).

Can anyone suggest a cheap M39 (I think that is the lens board that came with the Axomat 5) lens and a power supply? Or do I just buy the same power supply? What about the timers, any cheap generic timers that one can get with no displays and lights?

My Opemus 6 color head is powered by two 50 W 12 V (non-stabilised) transformers connected in parallel and timed by a Meopta Viponel timer, Maybe not the most sophisticated set-up, but it works for me. My lens is a Minolta 50 mm f2.8 CE Rokkor, which I got cheaply. Steer clear of the El Nikkor, Rodenstock or Schneider lenses as they're what everyone looks out for. My Minolta, Fuji EX, Durst, Meogon are less known, cheaper and will give excellent results.

 

[AgX]

So far I have not come across a lens where the diaphragm leaves were missing, but instead quite some where the leaves were not responding to twisting the aperture scale. So better look into this matter, maybe you have to open your lens. It is a basic lens, and without diaphragm you have nothing to loose anyway.

The power supply is 12W AC of the resp. wattage. Thus plain simple. You might come across for cheap a 13.8 V DC supply. That would work too, but stressing the lamp. Putting it more into the blue and even more shortening its lifetime.