Color Blindness and Frame Counter problem

[phrenzel]

Hi I have a Zero Image 2000 6x6. My problem is I am colorblind so I have a difficult time seeing when the frame numbers show up in the counter window. Has anyone experienced this before and what did you try to for a solution? Thanks for any help.

 

[summicron1]

switch to a green piece of cellophane? The impermeability of the paper backing is what blocks the vast majority of the light from fogging the film, and a deep deep green safelight is what was used in the past to develop film by inspection.

worth a try anyway. In any event, putting some black tape over the window so the film doesn't fog it a good idea no matter what color the window.

 

[tkamiya]

I am not sure if red plastic does anything.... orthochromatic film from decades ago weren't sensitive to red light. But (almost?) all film we have today are panchromatic which reacts to all visible light. I wonder removing it entirely is an option?

 

[Rick A]

I don't think there is anything you can do about it. Most modern backing papers utilize slightly feint numbers to begin with, to minimize chance of print through. I have good vision, and have difficulty reading the numbers through the red window, some brands are easier than others. BTW, I really don't think it matters which color the window is, with panchromatic film light fog will happen. It's best to keep the window covered except when advancing film.

 

[pentaxuser]

BTW, I really don't think it matters which color the window is, with panchromatic film light fog will happen. It's best to keep the window covered except when advancing film.

Yes I don't think it was for nothing that Agfa Isolettes of the mid-50s have both a red window and a metal shield to cover the red window

pentaxuser

 

[tkamiya]

I just remembered something.

I have many old Kodak cameras which all of them have those holes on their back. This includes Kodak Tourist, Six.16, box brownies, etc, etc, etc. Some of them no longer have the red plastic thing or the cover. I use re-spooled and adapted 120 film to use these. On those that didn't have red plastic or the cover, I just left it and loaded said 120 film, covered the hole with black electrical tape, and went shooting. Obviously, I had to remove the tape to wind so I know when fresh emulsion is aligned to the next frame. This was done in daylight.

End result was, I saw light leaks (well, these are old cameras) but nothing attributable to the hole on the back. Nothing circular or in the location where the hole would/should be. So this leads me to think, today's back papers are thick and light proof enough for brief exposure to natural light. It may not fare so well if it was wide open and facing sun for long time.

Just thought I'd report in.

 

[bdial]

I think the value of the window is to reduce the amount of light getting in, most likely any color that can produce reasonable contrast for you would probably be fine, or even no window at all. But it would be good to have a cover, if the camera isn't equipped with one.
As I recall Hasselblald "Manual" backs have an unfiltered opening which is used for advancing the film to frame one.

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

I think making a film winding scale and a thin line on to the knob to follow where was your film ,is the only safe solution.

 

[phrenzel]

Thank you all for the responses. I appreciate everyone's input. I think perhaps the idea of black tape on the back with removal of the red will do the trick best for me. Cheers.

 

[Rick A]

Thank you all for the responses. I appreciate everyone's input. I think perhaps the idea of black tape on the back with removal of the red will do the trick best for me. Cheers.

If you do that, just remember to not let direct sunlight (or any other strong light source) strike the window while you advance the film.

 

[grahamp]

I have to angle my Zero Image into sunlight to see the frame numbers. The only thing I can suggest is to sacrifice a roll of film. Load the film until the start mark just comes off the spool. Use tape to mark on the camera where the red window lines up. Then, with the back off, count the number of turns needed to get to fame 1, and how many turns to get to each subsequent frame. You will need an index mark on the camera and knob.

You need a sacrificial film because the number of turns will change as the takeup spool fills. If you stick to the same number of turns as you use at frame1 to 2, the spacing will get larger, and you may net get the last frame.

You will also need to have a means of counting your frames.