Need a good recommendation for cleaning metal cameras and leather as well.
Cleaning solutions for metal cameras.
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I have used warm water with a couple drops of dishwashing liquid. Use a t-shirt rag, go slow.
Toothpaste works well on satin chrome, because it's abrasive enough to clean well, but not abrasive enough to scratch the satin surface. Note: I don't recommend using toothpaste on a shiny surface without testing first.
Mark
Mark
A good metal polish is Flitz.
Keep it off leather, though; it will stain leather.
Keep it off leather, though; it will stain leather.
Nicholas Lindan
Advertiser
Windex, Q-tip, toothbrush. Are you looking to clean leather or just old bellows material?
Sorry that I always have to reply with the same answer: BALLISTOL gun oil!
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Leather as used by the factory on cameras like the Pentax K1000 is usually some impervious synthetic material, maybe vinyl. I scrub it with an old toothbrush dampened with soapy water.
To some extent, the same treatment works with vulcanite-covered cameras, but need to exercise caution, as exposed edges in particular can easily flake off. Some of the "dirt" which comes off of old Leica cameras is likely actually bits of carbon black and vulcanite, so be careful.
Genuine leather can be gently cleaned using saddle soap per manufacturer's recommendations.
To some extent, the same treatment works with vulcanite-covered cameras, but need to exercise caution, as exposed edges in particular can easily flake off. Some of the "dirt" which comes off of old Leica cameras is likely actually bits of carbon black and vulcanite, so be careful.
Genuine leather can be gently cleaned using saddle soap per manufacturer's recommendations.
I appreciate it. I had never heard of the stuff, but thanks to you have been trying it for various uses. Brilliant wherever you need a thin non-drying oil. Not yet convinced about it for leather, but am giving it a good trial and hope to be converted.
Ballistol is very good for leather (and rubber, vinyl, plastics, ABS, wood, copper, horse's hoofs, motorbikes, artillery, electric contacts,...).
Actually, when it was invented on demand by the Prussian Imperial Army (about 100 years ago), leather was an essential part of a soldier's outfit...
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I'm curious, can you suggest where to look for this product, here in France? Thank you.
I bought mine on eBay. Came from Germany, arrived (to UK) in 3 days.
Nicholas Lindan
Advertiser
Ballistol (Ballistic Oil) is gun oil - not really the best thing for cleaning the outside of a camera. After cleaning with Ballistol you will now have to use a solvent to get rid of the gun oil.
Gun oils, at least all the ones I have seen, are various weights of mineral oil. Mineral oil from the drug store is a lot cheaper, and probably purer.
Other good non-drying oils are automotive engine oils, especially synthetic oils, and automatic transmission fluid (ATF, though not the ones that come for you at 5am). There are a lot of people who get hysteric at the thought of putting SAE-30 on a pivot bearing, but engine oils are made to withstand lots of pressure and high temperature and are not going to degrade or gum in a camera environment.
WD-40, of gumming fame, is a thick sticky oil mixed with a solvent. It was designed to prevent rust on machined metal - when the solvent evaporates it leaves behind a thin layer of well stuck on oil that keeps moisture away from the metal. Sort of like automotive rust proofing, which is a mixture of solvent, tar instead of thick oil and powdered zinc - an automotive product that I conceed has no place in photography.
Gun oils, at least all the ones I have seen, are various weights of mineral oil. Mineral oil from the drug store is a lot cheaper, and probably purer.
Other good non-drying oils are automotive engine oils, especially synthetic oils, and automatic transmission fluid (ATF, though not the ones that come for you at 5am). There are a lot of people who get hysteric at the thought of putting SAE-30 on a pivot bearing, but engine oils are made to withstand lots of pressure and high temperature and are not going to degrade or gum in a camera environment.
WD-40, of gumming fame, is a thick sticky oil mixed with a solvent. It was designed to prevent rust on machined metal - when the solvent evaporates it leaves behind a thin layer of well stuck on oil that keeps moisture away from the metal. Sort of like automotive rust proofing, which is a mixture of solvent, tar instead of thick oil and powdered zinc - an automotive product that I conceed has no place in photography.
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Not entirely true, Ballistol, sparingly applied will dry nicely.
There is more than just mineral oil in it.
Gun oil is meant, among other things, to be able to clean away gunpowder residue, which is rather suborn, and 'restore' and protect the metal's surface, not 'oiling' in the proper sense of the word...
But, ofcourse, there are so many other, perhaps better, products to maintain cameras, and anybody is free to chose these.
But I will stick (sic) to Ballistol as it saved the day so many times.
And Yes, WD40, being a good, interesting and polyvalent product, isn't that 'healthy' for cameras (but useful on certain parts of an enlarger)...
A good armory will have it.
I've got a two yr old in the house that we're still potty training. Use what you got, I find baby wipes to work very well with a qtip or tooth pick to get into those tight places like between the shutter dial and the finder
+1 for Ballistol. I have not found anything else that works equally well for both leather and metal. If applied properly and camera is left to dry, it does not leave any oily residue, cleans nicely and leaves the leather hydrated.
Mine looks different though:
BTW I picked up this recommendation on a photo forum a few years ago, maybe even here. Or photo.net.
Mine looks different though:
BTW I picked up this recommendation on a photo forum a few years ago, maybe even here. Or photo.net.
Ballistol also comes in wipes individually packaged. It's easy to work with. I only use it on firearms, but will try it on my Iskra 2.
Constipation…
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