Clean and Clear PaRodinal

[gainer]

There may also be some inert but insoluble filler in the tablets that may cloud the solution.

 

[marcsv]

There may also be some inert but insoluble filler in the tablets that may cloud the solution.

That is usually the case when you use acetaminophen tablets instead of the powdered form.

blighty,
I usually give the brew 48 hourss for the conversion of acetaminophen to p-aminophenol. the precipitate will not harm the film emulsion when you dilute the solution (to my experience that is)

 

[Blighty]

Well, I processed a roll of HP5 for 11 mins 1+50 yesterday. It works! The negs didn't come out I as I expected (to be honest, I wasn't sure what to expect). The negs looked a bit thin, but closer inspection showed pretty good shadow detail with admirably restrained (if a little anaemic) highlights, a consequence I suppose of the !+50 dilution. Not sure if I'll use it again, but it's nice to know if the photographic chemistry industry goes tits up then I've got a readily available alternative.

 

[hjesus]

Yes, you are absolutely right, I think. I intended to do the same, now I am sure it will work. What kind of paracetamol did you use? Tablets? And what about the other stuff contained in the tablets?

 

[fotch]

Hello hjesus and welcome to APUG. You probably already know this is an old thread so you may need to start a new one. Just a thought.

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

I brewed some parodinal with mixing sequence of clear parodinal but using paracetamol tablets. Its been 3 days since i mixed it. Theres a white precipitate with some crystalline formations. Also theres a dark layer on the top and between both layers theres a layer pink in color. My question is whether this is ok for use. Shall i shake the soup before use? Plannin to use this weekend. Please help.

 

[stormpetrel]

White precipitate: starch (I use pure acetaminophen, so I don't have this problem anymore).
Crystals: Good! The crystals are formed because you have a super-saturated solution of sodium sulfite. You will have plenty more with time
Pink: Yes, it is pink but becomes yellowish then brown with time however I never had a dark layer with freshly made parodinal. Your parodinal is ready to use when it is yellowish (after 72H)
Shake:Yes !

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

Thanks a lot for such prompt response. The soup is yet to complete 72 hrs. Shall see if the color changes to yellowish. Shall update the same. What if the color does not change. Just in case....

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

Hi Stormpetrel,

just saw the soup and the color has changed to brown and the dark layer on top has started merging . I guess it shall become totally brown tomorrow. Thanks for the hint. Was really helpful.

regards
diehardluck

 

[stormpetrel]

You are welcome. Have fun!

 

[Smudger]

This stuff really works. I mixed a batch using capsules, and did a parallel process run with my (ancient) original Rodinal at 1:50 dilution. Grain, density and sharpness are identical at 30x magnification.
So -if you can't get Rodinal or its clones - start mixing..

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

I am planning to develop neopan acros 100 120 film tomorrow with parodinal. Shall i use 1:50 dilution? Will it cause fogging? Digital truth says to develop for 19 mins with 1:50. Any help would be appeciated.

 

[Xmas]

Never noticed fogging with any paminophenol.
You could also try 1:100 stand for 60 mins for better sharpness and finer grain, perhaps more compression.

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

I have never developed before. This is my first time so i am a bit paranoid with stand development. Additionally i am not patient enough to wait for an hour to see the results. Plus parodinal is cheap to make so i dont mind using10 ml per roll. Just wanted to confirm whether 1:50 dilution is tried and tested by others.

 

[Alan Johnson]

I am planning to develop neopan acros 100 120 film tomorrow with parodinal. Shall i use 1:50 dilution? Will it cause fogging? Digital truth says to develop for 19 mins with 1:50. Any help would be appeciated.

I have obtained good results using 1+50 PaRodinal using Rodinal development time + 10% so 19 min seems a bit long to me.
Also you need to further reduce the time if the temperature is over 20C, there are charts for this.

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchar...cros&Developer=Rodinal&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C

 

[Xmas]

I have never developed before. This is my first time so i am a bit paranoid with stand development. Additionally i am not patient enough to wait for an hour to see the results. Plus parodinal is cheap to make so i dont mind using10 ml per roll. Just wanted to confirm whether 1:50 dilution is tried and tested by others.

It is the film that is expensive.,,

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

Thanks alan you have cleared my development time issues. One last thing that i am worried about is agitation technique. Will using 3D inversion or 2D circular motion make any difference in results? I know i am bugging you guys here but please bear with me.

 

[Alan Johnson]

Once you have figured out what time you want to use for 20C =68F , measure the temperature in the tank during development and read off the time corrected to this temperature from the chart (borrowed from Ilford) halfway down this page:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/201062894918374.pdf
I find 2 inversions upside down each minute on the minute to be fine.

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

I developed a roll of nova silver plus 100 in parodinal in patterson type tank at unknown temperatures ;-) for 9 mins. the film came out over developed i think and i cannot see any frame number on the film. I understand that overdevelopment might be because of higher temp but what about no frame numbers. Water was used as stop bath and plain fixer from heylloyd.com was used. Any ideas....

 

[Alan Johnson]

If you search for "nova silver plus film" there is some suggestion it is manufactured in Europe and packaged in India.It might be sold for repackaging with no markings?

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

The roll had a sticker with nova written on it. Plastic reels might have caused no frame number?

 

[Xmas]

Some Forma bulk has no edge markings.

But you need to dilute Rodinal at least 1+25 and control temperatures between develop stop and fix.

I frequently use 1+100 at 20C for 60 minutes no agitation for several film types in a multi tank. If your water temperature is higher and the film is not prehardened you risk reticulation but you could try 30 minutes, it is desirable to use a thermometer.

My faucet water can be at 9C and needs heating.

Plain water stop is good.

 

[DIEHARDLuck]

I used parodinal 1:50 dilution. Developer and fixer were refrigerated but running water was used as stop bath which was at room temperature.

 

[Xmas]

Tropical processing is difficult. Simplest is to cool 4 times tank volume in fridge use 1/4 for stop and remaining three for final wash.

Ilford have a three fill wash but full archival

Pour out fix
Pour in first wash invert several times discard
Pour in second invert 25 times
Pour in third invert 25 times add rinse aid invert discard
hang to dry

make sure the tank is only 7/8 full in each rinse cycle the water needs to move around.

Rodinal works down to 15C I've tried donno about colder.

My procedure is similar but needs an electrical kettle... and thermometer.

9 mins at 20C 1+50 seems resonable... try 1+100 for 20 mins next saves Rodinal...

It takes will power to reach out from under duvets to grab smart phone to post ambient about 8C...

 

[pdeeh]

the Ilford method (in the literature they supply, I mean) is 5 then 10 then 20 inversions isn't it?