CL(a) a Rolleiflex 3.5B

[radiant]

I have a Rolleiflex 3.5B with the normal problems: sticky shutter at slow speeds, sticky aperture / shutter time adjusters. With these I have used to live and have no problem really. Such a lovely camera even with these faults.

However there is a random film advance problem where the film advance crank just wont advance the film at all. I can reload the shutter (backwards crank) but there is no way to get it advance, other than wait for 20 minutes and it works again. So sticky something there too. This is a fault I can't live with because it stops my shooting completely when it happens.

I asked local finnish repair center for estimate for repair and answe was 500+ euros. I wish they just have answered that "No thanks". Lost a customer there..

Anyways. I have no option for this to be fixed than to fix it myself. There are no other repair centers I could use here in Finland. I've asked for help abroad but I'm not getting any answers to emails.

What are my changes to get the camera fixed and what is the possibility to get a pile of junk in a bag that will never shoot any frames? And what valuable information I should need on this journey or saga? I've already ordered some dentist tools and lens wrench. I've done some small mechanic work so in means of technical work I think I would be fine.

So should I try it or store the camera somewhere to wait for the better days?

 

[wyofilm]

I believe that there are several good camera repair replaces in the United States with Rollei experience. I can't be sure, but 500+ Euros seems very high. What do you think a suitable price should be?

 

[radiant]

I believe that there are several good camera repair replaces in the United States with Rollei experience. I can't be sure, but 500+ Euros seems very high. What do you think a suitable price should be?

I think really maximum would be 200 euros.

 

[Ian Grant]

I had my Rolleiflex E2 3.5 serviced a few years ago and it needed a complete overhaul despite the original owner only putting less than 10 films through the camera from new, (lubricants had dried out it wasn't expensive. I had a Yashicamat 124 serviced at the same time a bout at half the cost but they told me there was twist in the focus frame (I don't disagree), they could fix it but the cost was more than I'd pay for a better camera on Ebay. 10 or 11 years later the Yashicamat is working perfectly however I only use it a few weks every year (when in Turkey/Greece).

My guess is they are actually factoring out the repair so adding a mark up.

I'd contact some EU/British reparers, I use B on W in Bristol, UK, bit Ellis Newton have an excellent reputation, I used to see a Roleiflex repair man at the camera fair I go to but I'm not sure if he's still active, He was Rollei (authorised and valued my 3.5 E Rolleiflex.

Ian

 

[radiant]

I'd contact some EU/British reparers, I use B on W in Bristol, UK, bit Ellis Newton have an excellent reputation, I used to see a Roleiflex repair man at the camera fair I go to but I'm not sure if he's still active, He was Rollei (authorised and valued my 3.5 E Rolleiflex.

Great tips. I'm just not too keen to ship the camera since the shipping costs raise the total price quite a bit.

 

[John Koehrer]

I'd rather ship the camera than end up with a bag of parts. I do have a number of bags around here, but no Rollei's.

Nothing in Scandinavia at all? Maybe a trip to Germany?

 

[BAC1967]

I have a similar problem with my 3.5 Automat. It always happens on the first frame, I take the shot and it won't advance. I found that pushing the shutter button a second time frees it up. I put the lens cap on when I push it the second time, just in case. I have never had the camera serviced and figure it's something I can live with for now.

 

[shutterfinger]

Your film advance problem is related to the shutter not functioning correctly. When the shutter releases it moves a lever that locks the film advance from turning and allows the film to advance 1 frame.
The Rolleiflexes use Synchro Compur, Comour, and Compur Rapid shutters. They are similar in build except for the later Synchro Compur which are a totally different animal. If you have never worked on a Compur of any type then don't open the one on your camera up. Buy a few used ones and tinker with them until you can competently repair them.
To remove the shutter on your camera use a hobby knife with a chisel blade and carefully remove the leather/leatherette on the front standard. You will find 6 or 8 screws that hold the face plate on. The shutter speed and aperture levers have to be set to specific positions to allow the face plate to come off and clear the set linkage/lever shutter. There may be brass shims under each screw that look like washers that will fall out. Once the face is off you can unscrew the front lens cell from the shutter. Now remove the back.
Using the lens spanner unscrew the rear retaining blackout barrel from the lens then the rear retaining nut that holds the shutter to the focus frame paying special attention to the order the parts come off in as the linkages can be tricky to install. Withe the shutter removed unscrew the rear lens cell from the shutter. You will have to disconnect the flash sync wire which may be soldered on or attached with a # 0 screw (1mm to 1.5mm). Now at this point you can submerge the shutter in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol and run a few cycles BUT as the ultrasonic cleaner runs it warms up the alcohol when very warm to hot will cause the paint to peel off the shutter. Flushing it with electronic contact cleaner is another option. DO NOT use lighter fluid or straight Naphtha as it will damage internal parts of the shutter as will lacquer thinner. When the shutter runs correctly dry reinstall it in the camera. It is better to run it clean and dry than slow with dried lubricants.

And the shutter in your camera is a variant of this base shutter:

Rolleiflex 3.5 #1780000,

Now, do you think you're up to it?

 

[radiant]

Your film advance problem is related to the shutter not functioning correctly. When the shutter releases it moves a lever that locks the film advance from turning and allows the film to advance 1 frame.
The Rolleiflexes use Synchro Compur, Comour, and Compur Rapid shutters. They are similar in build except for the later Synchro Compur which are a totally different animal. If you have never worked on a Compur of any type then don't open the one on your camera up. Buy a few used ones and tinker with them until you can competently repair them.
To remove the shutter on your camera use a hobby knife with a chisel blade and carefully remove the leather/leatherette on the front standard. You will find 6 or 8 screws that hold the face plate on. The shutter speed and aperture levers have to be set to specific positions to allow the face plate to come off and clear the set linkage/lever shutter. There may be brass shims under each screw that look like washers that will fall out. Once the face is off you can unscrew the front lens cell from the shutter. Now remove the back.
Using the lens spanner unscrew the rear retaining blackout barrel from the lens then the rear retaining nut that holds the shutter to the focus frame paying special attention to the order the parts come off in as the linkages can be tricky to install. Withe the shutter removed unscrew the rear lens cell from the shutter. You will have to disconnect the flash sync wire which may be soldered on or attached with a # 0 screw (1mm to 1.5mm). Now at this point you can submerge the shutter in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol and run a few cycles BUT as the ultrasonic cleaner runs it warms up the alcohol when very warm to hot will cause the paint to peel off the shutter. Flushing it with electronic contact cleaner is another option. DO NOT use lighter fluid or straight Naphtha as it will damage internal parts of the shutter as will lacquer thinner. When the shutter runs correctly dry reinstall it in the camera. It is better to run it clean and dry than slow with dried lubricants. View attachment 232930

Now, do you think you're up to it?

This is gold! Thank you so much for this. Full of so valuable tips.

I watched this following video yesterday and combined with your text I think I'm up to it. I will photograph every step and take time for this. Actually it starts to sound really interesting rather than scary.

 

[radiant]

I have a similar problem with my 3.5 Automat. It always happens on the first frame, I take the shot and it won't advance. I found that pushing the shutter button a second time frees it up. I put the lens cap on when I push it the second time, just in case. I have never had the camera serviced and figure it's something I can live with for now.

Yes I found out the same "fix" - pressing the shutter down again (without re-winding the shutter) but it started to loose it's effect. So it doesn't always help. I was having a bit heureka moment when I discovered it myself and the feeling I got when I understood I could continue shooting with the Rolleiflex. I don't know why but that camera has some magic. Maybe it is because the camera has been with me from 90's.

 

[Frank53]

Have you tried https[URL]http://www.paepke-fototechnik.de/eng/service.html or ://www.kamera-service.info/index.php/nl/contact-opnemen[/URL] Both are good with Rollei.
Sending a camera withon europe will not cast you more than something between 10 and 20 euro’s. And you will get it back like new.
Regards,
Frank

 

[Frank53]

Something went wrong with copy/paste, but you have the names now.

 

[radiant]

Have you tried httpshttp://www.paepke-fototechnik.de/eng/service.html or ://www.kamera-service.info/index.php/nl/contact-opnemen Both are good with Rollei.
Sending a camera withon europe will not cast you more than something between 10 and 20 euro’s. And you will get it back like new.

Frank thanks for the links. Both answered already, the Papke cannot give any price before checking the camera and kamera-service gave price of 295 euros. Both have 25-35 euros return shipping.

Shipping from Finland to Germany is about 30 euros.

 

[Frank53]

Frank thanks for the links. Both answered already, the Papke cannot give any price before checking the camera and kamera-service gave price of 295 euros. Both have 25-35 euros return shipping.

Shipping from Finland to Germany is about 30 euros.

Kamera Service did a very good job on my 3.5F, it was about the price you mention.
On Instagram I often see Cameraresque.org in Tampere. Have you contacted them allready? They have a list of all repair shops.
https://instagram.com/camerarescue?igshid=1izwgheijmeko
Regards,
Frank

 

[radiant]

Kamera Service did a very good job on my 3.5F, it was about the price you mention.
On Instagram I often see Cameraresque.org in Tampere. Have you contacted them allready? They have a list of all repair shops.
https://instagram.com/camerarescue?igshid=1izwgheijmeko
Regards,
Frank

Sure I know the guys and I have visited the store many times. That is the one who gave me the 450 euro "estimate". I double checked the price from my emails and I remember the price wrong (500 euros). The estimate was 450, I probably calculated 50 euros extra because it was estimate (you can add 10% to the estimate price without asking from customer).

 

[shutterfinger]

Download the Compur Service Manual at: https://www.scribd.com/doc/44503560/Compur-Shutter-Repair-Manual
The Special Shutter for the 3.5 is CS-1110-230a which is not in this manual, it will only be in a Rolleiflex Repair Manual.
The base shutter is CN-1110-000. Your shutter will have a different shutter release, speed dial and face plate, different flash sync connection, and the aperture lever may be different.
The manual is engineer diagrams which some find hard to follow. There are few special adjustments directions, and the lube diagram only list Rolleiflex numbers for the lubricants.

Download this Rolleiflex Repair Manual from my google drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kg50l0ttSdnWiXQWsNI1X3P5JfasLbOd/view?usp=sharing its 61.5kb. The 3.5 begins on pdf page 67.

 

[radiant]

Download the Compur Service Manual at: https://www.scribd.com/doc/44503560/Compur-Shutter-Repair-Manual
The Special Shutter for the 3.5 is CS-1110-230a which is not in this manual, it will only be in a Rolleiflex Repair Manual.
The base shutter is CN-1110-000. Your shutter will have a different shutter release, speed dial and face plate, different flash sync connection, and the aperture lever may be different.
The manual is engineer diagrams which some find hard to follow. There are few special adjustments directions, and the lube diagram only list Rolleiflex numbers for the lubricants.

Download this Rolleiflex Repair Manual from my google drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kg50l0ttSdnWiXQWsNI1X3P5JfasLbOd/view?usp=sharing its 61.5kb. The 3.5 begins on pdf page 67.

Shutterfinger, thanks for the material. The Compur material is awesome, whish Rolleiflex material could be on that level I don't know how they had such resources to do the manual. I'm considering making a poster and frame it from one of those blow-ups

Any ideas how to screw the lense open on Rolleiflex? I've seen a "door stop" rubber used but is there any other way without needing to buy a door stop and modifying it?

 

[AndyH]

Shutterfinger, thanks for the material. The Compur material is awesome, whish Rolleiflex material could be on that level I don't know how they had such resources to do the manual. I'm considering making a poster and frame it from one of those blow-ups

Any ideas how to screw the lense open on Rolleiflex? I've seen a "door stop" rubber used but is there any other way without needing to buy a door stop and modifying it?

I agree, that material is incredible! Thanks, Shutterfinger.

For lens element removal I use a relatively cheap set of sturdy spanners I bought on Amazon, and soft rubber lens tools that look almost exactly like the crutch tips, bought from either eBay or Amazon, I don't remember which. The most important factor is knowing exactly what is holding the element or lens in place, and for that you need either a manual or a step-by-step YouTube video. There are quite a few of the latter, especially on common camera models.

Andy

 

[shutterfinger]

According to the Compur manual the Rolleiflex 3.5 came with Xenor, Tessor, or Planar all f3.5.
Thiks is the lens diagram for a Xenotar, a Guass design listed as being used in Rolleiflex Cameras 1954-1955 in f3.5:

Tessar:

Light traveks the direction of the arrow. The tip of the direction arrow is the approximate position of the shutter and aperture blades. The lens cells each side are in a barrel that screws into the shutter. Each barrel has at least one retainer ring that holds one or more indivual or elements or pairs in place.
Use a rubber strap wrench such as https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Pi...4?keywords=strap+wrench&qid=1571436134&sr=8-4 to remove the cell barres from the shutter.
Use a spanner such as https://www.ebay.com/itm/DSLR-Camer...783511?hash=item1f0240bdd7:g:KSsAAOSwo25dpnw~ to remove the shutter retaining ring or element retaining rings.

 

[guangong]

I have owned my 2.8F since early ‘70s. Had an unsatisfactory service about 10 yrs ago. Nothing wrong with camera, but I was to keep it up to snuff. At shop of competent repairman in US for CLA at estimated cost of $500. I feel it’s worth it.

 

[radiant]

I got more information:

The kamera-service is euros 295 + 21 (parts) + 94 (shipping) + 21% VAT. Total 496 euros. Probably papke is at the same price range.

A serviced Rolleiflex 3.5B costs less than the service. How these companies keep in business?