Circles appearing on developed film

[titrisol]

This photo is the last frame. The 5th to last frame has 1 bubble, the 4th to last has like 10, and then the last 3 are full of bubbles like this.

That is what surprises me, never seen such perfect round bubbles when I had air bells defects

 

[koraks]

That is what surprises me, never seen such perfect round bubbles when I had air bells defects

Me neither. With typical air bell cases, it's usually clusters of them and they tend to create honey-comb like patterns where they interact. These distinct, nearly perfectly round (or oval) shapes are...odd.

 

[MattKing]

Could the image actually be a sandwich of two?
And no, I can't figure out how that might happen.

 

[Rick A]

Me neither. With typical air bell cases, it's usually clusters of them and they tend to create honey-comb like patterns where they interact. These distinct, nearly perfectly round (or oval) shapes are...odd.

When you see clusters of bubbles that resemble honey combs it's usually foam. Random spots are air bells that's caused by static cling. The former can be cured by using a drop or two of Edwal LFN in the developer , the latter by pre soaking for a couple of minutes prior to developing or rapping the tank hard on the counter top.

 

[Sirius Glass]

When you see clusters of bubbles that resemble honey combs it's usually foam. Random spots are air bells that's caused by static cling. The former can be cured by using a drop or two of Edwal LFN in the developer , the latter by pre soaking for a couple of minutes prior to developing or rapping the tank hard on the counter top.

I have a thick vinyl pad that I use for thumping the tank every time I put a new chemical in.

 

[koraks]

Thanks @Rick A , makes sense. I've had the foam thing happening once or twice, but never the stating cling type of bubbles. Not with film anyway.

 

[Xylo]

I usually tap the tank hard on the palm of my hand after every agitation step. That way whatever bubbles or air bells that could be on the film are simply dislodged before they can cause further trouble.
That's probably the only really good tip I learned from lab classes.
I've never had a single bubble on my film.

 

[Scott J.]

How and where was this film dried? Was it possibly hanging in a bathroom or laundry room, possible next to a sink or tub? To me, this looks like a phenomenon in which the film strip had dried but then part of it got accidentally splashed/sprayed with water. This could explain why the spotting is localized to only one area on the film strip (e.g., the end... maybe the end hanging lowest to the floor?).

 

[pentaxuser]

I usually tap the tank hard on the palm of my hand after every agitation step. That way whatever bubbles or air bells that could be on the film are simply dislodged before they can cause further trouble.
That's probably the only really good tip I learned from lab classes.
I've never had a single bubble on my film.

Yes I do the same but on a hard-ish worktop, often wondering if that is really required. However if the alternative is risking the odd bubble then why take any chances for the sake of one short tap after every agitation

pentaxuser

 

[MattKing]

A wet rag on the bottom of the sink is a great tap target as well.

 

[Rick A]

Well, for all you folks that have plastic tanks or are afraid of doing damage to your tanks by rapping them on a hard surface, I suggest a two to three minute pre soak before developing. Pour the water in and shake the whoopies outta the tank like a cocktail shaker (unless it's one that can't be inverted), or at least treat it like developer and agitate appropriately.

 

[Xylo]

Well, for all you folks that have plastic tanks or are afraid of doing damage to your tanks by rapping them on a hard surface

That's why I favor the palm of my hand. It's hard enough to give the tank a good stop but not so hard as to break it.
I also once heard of someone who used a big car cleaning sponge as a shock absorber..

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have a thick vinyl pad that I use for thumping the tank every time I put a new chemical in.

Well, for all you folks that have plastic tanks or are afraid of doing damage to your tanks by rapping them on a hard surface, I suggest a two to three minute pre soak before developing. Pour the water in and shake the whoopies outta the tank like a cocktail shaker (unless it's one that can't be inverted), or at least treat it like developer and agitate appropriately.

I have thumped plastic tanks on a thick vinyl pad and never had a problem. Whacking it with a hammer can be more problematical.

 

[Rick A]

I have thumped plastic tanks on a thick vinyl pad and never had a problem. Whacking it with a hammer can be more problematical.

Well, since you aren't afraid of smacking your tank, my post doesn't pertain to you does it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Well, since you aren't afraid of smacking your tank, my post doesn't pertain to you does it.

It is better to have ones tank spanked than ones rear.

 

[foc]

In all my years using small tanks for B&W developing, I never tapped, hard or soft and I never got air bubbles. I also never used a pre soak just a good swirl agitation for the first 20 seconds.

(Of course, I also use a squeegee, so that puts me in the 0.05% category)