CineStill Film Cs41 C-41 Colour Negative Film Liquid Developing Kit

[Andrew O'Neill]

I'm thinking about self processing colour film. Never done it before. Is the CineStill kit any good? Thank you!

 

[Romanko]

When I started processing C41 a few years ago I used Tetenal. If you can buy Bellini this would be my choice today. CineStill is not much cheaper than a proper kit so why take shortcuts?

After I figured out C41 development at home I realized that I don't save much compared to sending the negatives in a lab for processing.

 

[cliveh]

I know many here will disagree, but I would stick with black & white. Colour processing requires very critical temperature variations and is probably best done by machine. Also, black & white often makes a stronger statement in term of tonal simplicity and composition. It can often asks more questions.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I know many here will disagree, but I would stick with black & white. Colour processing requires very critical temperature variations and is probably best done by machine. Also, black & white often makes a stronger statement in term of tonal simplicity and composition. It can often asks more questions.

Well, one can try, can't they? As stated, I've never developed colour on my own. I'll be shooting the film in a Holga anyway, so who cares about precision?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I'm also taking a look at FlicFilm's C-41 kit...

 

[Alan9940]

Please report back on your findings, once you've had a chance to try both kits. I haven't processed any color since my Cibachrome days and that was a looooong time ago! Any color I've done over the past 35 years, or so, I've sent off to a lab. But, I have quite a stash of LF color film stashed in the freezer that I inherited from a local photographer years ago. I've thought more than once about breaking it out, but would like to process it myself on my Jobo.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Finding a source for C-41 kit up here is more challenging than I thought...

 

[bdial]

If you find a kit, using it isn’t especially difficult. Yes, temperature control is important, but not that hard to achieve.

I hope you find it, every analog photographer should do their own color at least once.

 

[loccdor]

Yes, the Cinestill C-41 2-bath kit is one I've used many times and it's comparable with the old Tetenal/Unicolor/Arista ones on a hybrid workflow. I think with any of the kits one stop of overexposure will give your images a boost, the most common source of problems I see with color negative is people shooting them at box speed, especially when they are expired. I can't speak to RA4 printing. I do about 20 rolls on a 1 liter kit.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I was able to get Kodak's Colour C-41 Processing Kit, from Freestyle.

 

[koraks]

Excellent choice!

Are you also considering printing your color negatives...?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Excellent choice!

Are you also considering printing your color negatives...?

Not traditionally. This is just an exercise in curiosity, but if I have a an image or two that I really like, I'll use them for tri-colour gums, via digi-neg.

 

[koraks]

Ooh, that would be nice! Looking forward to your video(s) on this subject.

 

[braxus]

Andy. How do you plan to heat the chemicals to the proper temps and keep them there? Id be curious myself.

 

[cerber0s]

I'm thinking about self processing colour film. Never done it before. Is the CineStill kit any good? Thank you!

I’m approaching the End Of Life of my second Cinestill Simplified 2 bath C41 kit, and I’ve been nothing but happy. Temperature control was a bit iffy at first, but I got a used Sous Vide heater for $20 and now it’s a breeze.

The savings in $$$ is massive compared to lab development, and I can shoot my film, develop it, and scan it all during the course of a day.

These were shot last weekend and developed with the Cinestill kit.

Portra 160

Fuji Superia expired in 2017

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Andy. How do you plan to heat the chemicals to the proper temps and keep them there? Id be curious myself.

I'm planning to use one of those sous vide gizmos to keep the bath at a steady temperature. I'm not really concerned with any colour issues. If I have any keepers, they'll be scanned, adjust, and set up to be used for tri-colour gums.
@cerber0s those look great!

 

[drew tanner]

approaching the End Of Life

Out of curiosity, what is your threshold for ‘end of life’ with the Cinestill kit? Is it a particular number of rolls? Weeks since mixed?

 

[cerber0s]

Out of curiosity, what is your threshold for ‘end of life’ with the Cinestill kit? Is it a particular number of rolls? Weeks since mixed?

The datasheet says it has a shelf life of six months after mixed. My first batch had sat for 9 months when I developed my 5th film, and by then it was dead. I just developed my 6th film in my second batch, that I mixed six weeks ago, and it looks good.

The datasheet also says that you get 8 rolls of film out of a batch, but that you can keep going after that until you think the results are no longer satisfactory. When that happens is hard to tell, time and number of films developed will both affect the developer. I will keep using this for a while and see when it no longer produces acceptable results.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

The Kodak kit arrived. Looks pretty easy to mix up. Now I have to source 2.5L storage bottles. I ordered collapsible plastic storage bags. At least with those, I'll be able to squeeze air out.

 

[cerber0s]

The Kodak kit arrived. Looks pretty easy to mix up. Now I have to source 2.5L storage bottles. I ordered collapsible plastic storage bags. At least with those, I'll be able to squeeze air out.

I’ve got a five litre bag in box (says “Fine Wine” on the side) that I filled with Adox XT-3 for replenishing. It works great, and no air in it!

 

[MattKing]

The Kodak kit arrived. Looks pretty easy to mix up. Now I have to source 2.5L storage bottles. I ordered collapsible plastic storage bags. At least with those, I'll be able to squeeze air out.

Check at your local you-brew wine bottling place.
I don't know if these folks offer them, but they appear to be fairly local to you: https://www.justfinewine.ca/
Mine come from a place in Richmond.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

There is a you-brew wine shop very close by. I always source citric acid from there. I'll ask them about these wine bags. Looks like a good alternative for storing XTol as well.

 

[MattKing]

There is a you-brew wine shop very close by. I always source citric acid from there. I'll ask them about these wine bags. Looks like a good alternative for storing XTol as well.

That is what I use for X-Tol. They work well, although I've yet to find the ideal, water resistant, reusable and cheap solution for a box to hold them .
My best attempt is a re-purposed, custom modified, large juice pitcher from the thrift store.

 

[braxus]

I use 5L wine bags for my B&W chemicals too, including Xtol. They work great. I'll probably use them for color too if I should do this. I see the heater you mentioned Andy on at Amazon.ca for $79 bucks.

 

[cliveh]

I have heard of several people in the UK use a wine box for developer storage. It is a very good idea, as you can remove the bag from the box, remove the push fit tap, wash the bag out and refill with developer. You can then refit the tap and even invert the box inside out to relabel it. You then have developer storage which is better than a tank with a floating lid, as the bag collapses in as you use the developer, dispensed from a spring loaded tap, so you don't waste any. Best of all, you have to drink the wine in the first place.